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Nose gear leg fairing

Bavafa

Well Known Member
Looking for some good pix of the nose gear leg fairing installed. I have done the initial cut as it is marked on the fairing and it looks like it is leaving more of a gap that needs to. Also, I am not clear how much forward it should be mounted. There are markings to use as guide but on the first look it appear to be too forward.
Would be great to see some pix of an install to see the finish product :)
 
I just installed mine and used the factory cut lines and the factory marks for the #12 holes at the top and the #19 (I think) holes at the bottom for the bolts into the nutplates and everything lined up pretty well with the wheel pant. Not sure what you mean by too far fwd? I will try and post a couple pics later today.
 
I just installed mine and used the factory cut lines and the factory marks for the #12 holes at the top and the #19 (I think) holes at the bottom for the bolts into the nutplates and everything lined up pretty well with the wheel pant. Not sure what you mean by too far fwd? I will try and post a couple pics later today.
Thank you Chris.

When I line up the upper and lower bolt holes location per plan, I have more than 1/8" gap between the fairing and the wheel pants. Considering that I still need to clean sand the bottom part, the gap will only get bigger.
How much gap do you have between the wheel pants and the fairing?
 
The nose wheel fairing has to be installed, and then turned to the L & R travel stops to see what amount of clearance is actually required.
 
Scott,

Is it okay to delay the nose wheel fairing install and leave the aluminum cowl bottom close-out off for initial flight tests?

Bill
 
There should be on flight characteristics problems.
Nose fairing on would reduce drag a measurable amount and possibly help with engine cooling if your initial testing is in hot weather.
 
I tried to upload some photos of my nose gear fairing, but Tinypics failed me today.

I cut to the plans, and then ended up trimming a bit more. As Scott indicated, the geometry of the gear closes up the gap at the extremes of the turn and you need the clearance.

Regarding flying, I flew off much of my Phase I without gear leg fairings - adding fiberglass as I finished it. However, I did install the close out on the bottom cowl as I was concerned about the cowl edge flapping/vibratingand wanted the sniffle drain supported.
 
However, I did install the close out on the bottom cowl as I was concerned about the cowl edge flapping/vibratingand wanted the sniffle drain supported.

I agree, the close out should be installed for flight.
I forgot that it is not in two pieces like the RV-10, and was thinking Bill was just talking about the fwd portion.
 
Thanks all for chiming in. I have noticed on the nose wheel pants that more clearance is needed for the L&R turns then straight and would imagine the same would apply for the gear fairing. Just trying to get the cleanest look without interference.

Second question that I have been wondering... since I don't have the cowl installed yet (way to go to get to that portion yet), has anyone created/installed an upper intersection fairing for the nose gear or the aluminum part gives it a very clean look?
 
Thanks all for chiming in. I have noticed on the nose wheel pants that more clearance is needed for the L&R turns then straight and would imagine the same would apply for the gear fairing. Just trying to get the cleanest look without interference.

Second question that I have been wondering... since I don't have the cowl installed yet (way to go to get to that portion yet), has anyone created/installed an upper intersection fairing for the nose gear or the aluminum part gives it a very clean look?

None was developed for the kit since the gear leg moves within the opening in the bottom of the cowl.
 
Another thing to check is the vertical height and pitch angle of the nose wheel fairing, which makes a lot of difference in how it lines up with the gear leg fairing.
 
Another thing to check is the vertical height and pitch angle of the nose wheel fairing, which makes a lot of difference in how it lines up with the gear leg fairing.

Correct, trust but verify.

The heavy lifting has been done and looks great. I must have put the fairing on&off more than 100 times (a bit of exaggeration) to get the good fit but it was worth the effort.
Now I am wondering if I should glass over the rivets (for the piano hinge) to keep them from coming loose and not showing thru paint over time. I guess compared to the 7A, there is hardly any relative movement in relation to the gear leg so should hold up better.
 
on my nose leg fairing I can’t figure out how to locate the lower holes properly. All I got on the fairing was a little straight line there. Gelcoat keeps me from seeing thru. The upper fastener marking is easy to see.

Do I sand off the gelcoat to see? Any better ideas? I don’t have a laser pointer maybe it’s time.
 
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on my nose leg fairing I can’t figure out how to locate the lower holes properly. All I got on the fairing was a little straight line there. Gelcoat keeps me from seeing thru. The upper fastener marking is easy to see.

Do I sand off the gelcoat to see? Any better ideas? I don’t have a laser pointer maybe it’s time.
Here is what I did and end up pretty darn accurate.

Point a laser light, one that you can be pointed and hold steady to the screw hole without the fairing on, then without distorting the laser light install the fairing and the light will shine where it needs to be drilled.
My level has a laser light which I used.

Good luck.
 
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Nose Wheel Leg Fairing

The plans say to check the pre-drawn lines on the lower portion line up with the center nutplate hole. Mine line up with the upper nutplate hole. Everything else seems to be lined up. Mine is clear so I can see through it pretty well. Did anybody else have this or do I need to keep sanding?
 
I don?t know if that matters. I sanded away gelcoat to see through. This is one part where gelcoat really doesn?t help.
 
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