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Seat hinges?

bret

bret

Well Known Member
Ok please help with this hing eye madness, on Dwg 30 they want the open end of the seatback hinge on the out board side? Does it really matter? The way I cut my hinges, I would need to cut a new length of the seat pan hinge one side to do this? Is there something that I do not see for latter on in the build or does it matter?
 
I do not remember what I did, but I really do not think it matters. just be sure that you do not put the seat too close to the center stack of the actuator for the flaps.

Dave
 
or mount it where the plans say, so that the top of the seat back hits the gusset that ties the top longeron to the cross brace.
 
Ok then, on my own, I am doing the seat back mod from antisplataero. I really do not see the importance of one hinge eye on the seat.......
 
Modifying this will move your seat one way or the other (1", two eyelets width, left or right). Like others have said you may get too close to the center or longerons. I remember these hinges being a real mind bender and screwed the first one up before fully understanding. I'd follow the plans.
 
You want them looking like this.

IMG_0747-M.jpg


There is a bit of confusion on the plans with the dimension called out from the center tunnel to the edge of the hinges on DWG 30, F-637E Hinge & Tunnel Cover Locations. Look carefully. The measurement is 7/8" from edge to edge, not edge to centerline of the rivet holes along the edge. There is another dimension length call out for the hinge pins that overlaps the other measurement (which is critical for tip-up canopies).
 
Another seat hinge gotcha

Watch out for interference between some of the seat pan mounted hinge locations and the holes for the screws that hold the pans down onto the ribs below.

I am at work and don't recall the specifics but, from memory, there is one such conflict on each side if you use the plans locations. I had to reverse one of the three hinges so that the flange was aft of the loops but the loops themselves were in the standard location.

The hinge half on the seat back doesn't care which way the flange of its 'other half' is facing.
 
One other gotcha:

I noticed a spot on the canopy latch mechanism where the powder coat had been scratched. It turned out the the tail of one of the rivets in the seat was touching the crossover tube and every time I opened or closed the canopy, the rivet tail etched furter into the powder coat. Trimmed the tail down off the rivet, sanded, primed and repainted the powder coat white and it's taken care of.
 
Bret,

Why are you doing the Antisplat mod? It looks to me like a solution in search of a problem, affecting a whole bunch of interfaces, that unless you're well over six feet tall is not an issue in an RV7.

Regarding the hinge locations: Van's installation works well, but do be extraordinarily careful about reading the plan dimensions locating the rivet holes, where they penetrate the floor, and which eyes are clipped. There are a couple of different baseline dimensioning systems involved and it's easy to misunderstand where zero is for the feature of interest. Deviate from the plans and other things won't align or will interfere.

John Siebold
 
Thanks folks, I will look at the plans. another question, how close is your seat back to the arm rest? do you set it up to be able to move it in or out of the seat centerline. got this far and did not think a silly hinge would be so concerning.
 
If you have the seat back done, install the floor hinge part to the seat with pins and then tape the flange to the floor at the location that will work. Then drill.

If you don't have the seat back done, install the hinge on the bottom of the seat to fit the hinge that is attached to the floor.
 
pireps would be good?

RV7ator said:
Bret, Why are you doing the Antisplat mod?
Click to expand...

I see the big value in the AS mod being;
my passenger, especially if large, can get his shoulders behind mine. I would have more freedom to use controls etc. and they could pivot around, take photos, drink etc. without feeling like siamese twins. ( 1,2,3 shift left!) :)
it's definitely on my list.
 
Another caution ...

... the location of the seat back has to be strangely precise. There's very little "wiggle room" on either outboard side or inboard side. I found the issue of hinge loop vs hinge gap made little difference, as long as I got the bottom hinge and seat centered perfectly between the flap motor housing and the outboard side. If you have a tip-up, very little outboard bias in the install causes the finished canopy to catch on the seat back before the latch drops into place. Those hinged seat back supports at the top will also hit the roll bar/canopy frame. I had to grind a notch in the outboard side of mine.
.... ah yes, the lessons of experience. :)
 
Seat Hinges

My seat hinges were alread set in my -9 QB, but one of these days, I'm going to make a modificaton. I am going to use screws and nutplates to attach the floor hinge half. After almost 6 years of ops, I find the pins are a pain to get back in due to eyelet alignment. Unless you are very careful each time you remove the forward parts of the floor behind the spar to inspect and lube the "monkey motion" of the control sticks, the hinges and remaining floor panel can become bent. I think replacing the rivets with #8 nutplates and screws will make it easier to re-install the seat back. Dan
 
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