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  #11  
Old 09-11-2017, 08:11 AM
Brantel's Avatar
Brantel Brantel is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Newport, TN
Posts: 6,722
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260 hrs on 1 mag and 1 Pmag. Sent Pmag in for latest firmware update and flat fee checkup. No problems found. Converted the second mag to another new Pmag recently. About 10hrs so far on the dual Pmag setup with no problems found.

Also added the EI Commander to the system to keep an eye on the dual Pmags.

Something new for me is I have my max advance limited to 25.2 so I am only using them for better starts, smoother idle/running and the benefits of car plugs over massive airplane plugs.
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Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
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  #12  
Old 09-11-2017, 08:43 AM
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Low Pass Low Pass is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,839
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One plane, two Pmags. 5, 6 years with PMags, 630 and 530 hours. One had the case bolt failure this last summer. Repaired no charge. A residual intermittent issue remained in the same unit. Board replaced for a discounted fee. Seems to be working well now.

Currently, I'm troubleshooting a problem that's pointing to the second Pmag unit. One more test flight. If the problem still remains, second Pmag is going back in for further evaluation.

Update 9/16 - second Pmag is working as intended.

Slicks I had for years before never failed. But they weren't EI either.
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Houston

Last edited by Low Pass : 09-18-2017 at 06:31 AM.
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  #13  
Old 09-11-2017, 09:19 AM
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Bob Martin Bob Martin is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 947
Default New setup

Glad to hear all the responses.
I just installed a dual Pmag set up in hangarmates RV-6, 0-360.
All according to Emag install manual.
I did get Tom at TSFlightlines to make a really nice MP line with a double tee to serve the Pmags MP lines. Works well.
Also used two pull type breakers and a normal key switch.
No problems. But I did follow all Emags tips/advise and testing, etc.
Worked as advertised.
First test flight last saturday, starts, idles and runs better.
Thanks to everyone that went before me for all the R&D.
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Bob Martin
RV-6, 0-360 Hartzell C/S, Tip up, 1150+TT
James extended cowl/plenum, induction, -8VS and Rudder. TSFlightline hoses. Oregon Aero leather seats.
D100-KMD150-660-TT ADI2- AS air/oil seperator. Vetterman exhaust with turndown tips.
Louisa, Virginia KLKU N94TB
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  #14  
Old 09-11-2017, 09:34 AM
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ChuckGant ChuckGant is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Collierville, TN (M41)
Posts: 78
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We bought our RV7 with 125 hours on a fresh IO-360 and 1 Series-113 E-mag and 1 Series 113 P-mag. Per Brad's guidance, we sent them both back during the annual and had them upgraded to both be Series 114 P-Mags. They have worked flawlessly for the last 150 hours. On the last annual (April 17) we switched to automotive spark plugs (also per Brad's advice) and have seen a marked improvement in hot starts.

Now, that being said, I just talked to a hangar neighbor that said he had the electronics fail in one of his, causing the engine to run rough on that mag. It was attributed to too much heat in the circuit board, so he is increasing the cooling to his mags. I think we are going to do the same thing to ours as a preventative measure.

Overall, we are very happy with them.
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  #15  
Old 09-11-2017, 09:40 AM
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
Posts: 880
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600 +/- hours on P114L's. No issues except CHT's hotter than with mags; when I pull them this week for the inspection and software upgrade while the plane is down for other maintenance, I'll retard them about 2 degrees and see if this doesn't bring me back below 425*F in extended full power climbs, having addressed everything else that's traditionally looked at.

Wouldn't change a thing otherwise. Very happy customer. Hope to put them on an IO-540 in a couple years.
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Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - flying since '98
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

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  #16  
Old 09-11-2017, 10:16 AM
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Raymo Raymo is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Richmond Hill, GA (KLHW)
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100+ hrs on one P-Mag (114, lastest FW) on my -7A and one Slick (non-impulse). CHTs were difficult to manage in climb until I installed the gear fairings. While waiting to fit that in, I retarded the time, which helped with CHTs but hot starts were more difficult and it didn't want to shut down when mixture was pulled to ICO.

Since moving the timing back to standard, all starts are easy and shutdown is much improved. CHTs are easy to manage as long as I don't lean too quickly in the climb. If I maintain 1200-1235 EGT, it's all good.

I'm on the fence as to going dual P-Mag or installing a different EI on the left side. Cold air sump will likely come first for the extra 7 HP.
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RV-7A - Slider - N495KL - First flt 27 Jan 17
O-360-A4M w/ AFP FM-150 FI, 1 PMag, Vetterman Trombone Exh, SkyTech starter,
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All lines by TSFlightLines (AKA Hoser)
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Last edited by Raymo : 09-12-2017 at 07:32 AM.
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  #17  
Old 09-11-2017, 03:23 PM
Canadian_JOY Canadian_JOY is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,337
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One small anecdote to add here... Our "project" aircraft has one Slick impulse-coupled mag and one Series 114 P-Mag. On the first engine start I was impressed with how easily the engine started and, after all the oil etc was burned off it purred very nicely indeed.

Then I did a mag check and discovered the Slick wasn't firing at all! So... chalk up one first engine start to the ease of properly setting P-Mag timing. (And I've added a little crow soup to my diet after discovering I had timed the Slick to fire on the exhaust stroke...DOH!).
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  #18  
Old 09-11-2017, 05:43 PM
maus92 maus92 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Annapolis MD
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This is a timely thread for me since I am considering installing at least one P-Mag during my CI at the end of next month. I have 400 hrs TTSN on my O-360, and I am not sure which mag to replace: I'm leaning towards the impulse / LH mag since it's slightly more complicated, it seems to be developing a larger RPM drop (although well within spec,) and a coupling failure could be a bit destructive.

Anyway, I'm still trying to justify switching to EI, and if so, one or both mags. It makes perfect sense if the mags are going to require expensive work in the next year or two. I'm unclear about the gear differences, and whether or not I need to buy need ones for each mag, or can reuse one or both. This is a certified Lycoming O-360, btw. Has anyone seen or produced a tutorial / pictorial / video on the process? That would be very helpful - I'm not even sure if I'm asking the right questions, or leaving anything out...
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  #19  
Old 09-11-2017, 06:06 PM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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Location: Newport, TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maus92 View Post
I'm unclear about the gear differences, and whether or not I need to buy need ones for each mag, or can reuse one or both. This is a certified Lycoming O-360, btw. Has anyone seen or produced a tutorial / pictorial / video on the process? That would be very helpful - I'm not even sure if I'm asking the right questions, or leaving anything out...
You can reuse the non impulse coupler gear (direct drive) but you cannot use the impulse coupler gear. They are made differently and the later won't fit the shaft of the Pmag.

If you purchase a used one, be aware that there was some non-certified versions of these gears sold a few years ago that most had trouble with in a few hundred hours. Trust the source you get them from!

The Pmag manual gives a few hints on how to remove/install the gear. Pretty straight forward. You have to hold the gear in some manner that does not damage it at all. Remove the cotter key and nut and use a small puller to get the gear off the shaft. Sometimes they will come right off and others they need a little help.

Reverse the process and have fun with that cotter pin!

Note: Do not hammer on the shaft, gear or nut. Do not use bare channel locks on the gear to hold it! When installing on the Pmag do not put any force what so ever on the shaft in the axial direction!
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Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
Like EAA Chapter 1494 on Facebook

Last edited by Brantel : 09-11-2017 at 06:10 PM.
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  #20  
Old 09-11-2017, 07:01 PM
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Dbro172 Dbro172 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Moorhead, MN
Posts: 930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brantel View Post
You can reuse the non impulse coupler gear (direct drive) but you cannot use the impulse coupler gear. They are made differently and the later won't fit the shaft of the Pmag.

If you purchase a used one, be aware that there was some non-certified versions of these gears sold a few years ago that most had trouble with in a few hundred hours. Trust the source you get them from!

The Pmag manual gives a few hints on how to remove/install the gear. Pretty straight forward. You have to hold the gear in some manner that does not damage it at all. Remove the cotter key and nut and use a small puller to get the gear off the shaft. Sometimes they will come right off and others they need a little help.

Reverse the process and have fun with that cotter pin!

Note: Do not hammer on the shaft, gear or nut. Do not use bare channel locks on the gear to hold it! When installing on the Pmag do not put any force what so ever on the shaft in the axial direction!
Also worth mentioning that if you replace an impulse mag with a pmag, you need to install shorter studs into the engine case, pmag doesn't use the one inch spacer like an impulse mag. Another thing to note is where your RPM sensor is coming from, if you take off the mag with the RPM sensor you will either need to move that sensor to the other mag, or wire up the pmag RPM sensor wire. (All of this is covered in the install manual)

Last month I installed two PMAGs in place of two impulse coupled slick mags, so I installed shorter studs at both locations and took the RPM sensor wire to my G3X. No issues, overall about an 8 hour job, all is good. I also installed two new circuit breakers, just above my key switch and am using the same (L/R/Both/Start) key switch as with my magnetos. Definitely runs hotter, I used EICAD to retard the advance shift by 2.8 degrees which helped but #4 is still warmer than I'd like at a 75% power cruise so I may knock the shift back a bit more.

And yes, enjoy the cotter pin!
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RV-9A #92103 - N803DK (now N9396S)
G3X, Superior XO-320, Dual Pmags, Whirlwind GA
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Last edited by Dbro172 : 09-11-2017 at 07:20 PM.
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