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Hangar Project

Aggie78

Well Known Member
Greetings folks,

I've owned 2 hangars, but never been involved in actually building one. That's all about to change, as I've purchased a lot in an airpark outside of San Marcos, Texas...

So, as I start the info gather for this, I would appreciate any point outs or help on when you've been involved in something like this yourself.

Hangar size TBD, but at least 60x60 up to 80x80.

This hangar will have a small apartment/loft for my wife and I to part-time at...

Some decision points to make...door-bifold or hydraulic? Manufacturer rec?

Building-Steel framing or Wood? I've looked at (and currently live in) a steel framed hangar, but I'm intrigued by a company called "Morton" wood framed buildings. Anyone have any experience?

Lot size is ~1 acre...is it cheaper to build "out" or build "up" (loft) for the office/living space?

Going to get engineering done for slab work, as soils are an issue in the area.

"Nice to have" items on electrical/plumbing/HVAC are appreciated.

Will need septic. Already have water/electric run to lot.

Any other gotcha's or pitfall's to avoid are much appreciated!

Thanks!
 
Hangar

Since this sounds like a long term use, a few items to consider.

1-Slab: make sure there is plenty of drainage under and around the slab, even if you have to add to fill to elevate it a few inches. Nothing is worse than slipping on a sweating floor.

2-Skylights: Wonderful for free lighting but all will eventually start leaking/ deteriorate with time. Either get really good ones or skip it

3-Mezzanine: Build, or make provision in the steel uprights in the rear for future storage: (possible part of living area?) Best to design in. I wish that 1/3 of my rear wall was clear span mezzanine instead of 1/8. (60 x 72 hangar)

4-Buy the best roof you can afford.A standing seam metal roof would be good Use thicker metal.

If you have a main door on the front, a 10' roll up on the back wall would be handy for a cross breeze and general operations.

5-Plumb in air hose fittings all around the hangar along with power outlets

6-Install wiring for one of those large Big Axx type fans you might eventually want in the center ceiling.

7-Install some tie downs in the front slab in case you need to park a bird outside
 
I am at the same stage of planning as you. In fact the architect is sending the finished drawings today.
Morton has a nice free brochure worth checking out. I haven't checked their prices but imagine they are more expensive than what I am planning. My plan is 40x50 with 16ft walls, rear loft for storage and office, and a bathroom. I am planning HVAC just to take the edge off the occasional winter chill and adequate cooling in summer. I live in Mid-Georgia and will prob also get a BA fan. Windows are also important to me but will not do skylights. Your slab should extend out from the main door to act as an apron. Mine extends about ten feet.
 
An 80 x 80 or a 60 x 80 has advantages, an 80' wide hangar will allow you to park aircraft with their tail to the wall and leave the center portion open to the door. You will not have to move airplanes to get one out. If you have more than on airplane or plan to rent space this is a necessity to avoid hangar rash. Additionally, it makes the hangar more resalable way down the road. One other thing to consider, electrical receptacles, I have a small 1500 sq ft hangar that I wired with 8 double gang boxes, 34 plug ins. After moving in and placing items everywhere, I can now only access 3 of the double gang boxes. Ceiling fans are great! Dan from Reno
 
Lot size is ~1 acre...is it cheaper to build "out" or build "up" (loft) for the office/living space?

That question might be best answered after talking to whoever has to approve your building plans at the govt. level.

Fire codes and separation issues might come into play.
 
.....

One other thing to consider, electrical receptacles, I have a small 1500 sq ft hangar that I wired with 8 double gang boxes, 34 plug ins. After moving in and placing items everywhere, I can now only access 3 of the double gang boxes. Ceiling fans are great! Dan from Reno

Use surface mounted EMT conduit for the hangar area. It will be much easier to add on later if needed. Keep the outlet boxes all above workbench height.
 
Up is usually more efficient, from an energy standpoint (higher volume to surface area ratio). But up requires vertical access. Not just for 'stuff', but for people. How long will you be using it? Will age become a factor? Anyone in your life with physical limitations now or potential, that will need to access the 2nd level?

I like one-piece doors. They are mechanically much simpler than bifolds. But their one big downside is that you need to know that their sweep area is clear before opening. Most bifolds will miss just about anything that's more than a few feet out from the door.

I'd agree with others about surface mounting utilities (air, power, etc). If you actually use the space (for more than just a/c parking), you'll periodically wish you had an outlet or an air drop where it's not.

Related to using the space, if you intend to have a shop worth of tools, having a smaller enclosed space for the shop can save heat/cool costs and can actually be more efficient in a functional way, since it keeps everything closer to the actual work.

One thing I wish I'd done when I built my shop addition was to pour the slab on several inches of foam insulation, and run plastic tubing for floor heat. We're in a mild climate, and I might never have used it, but now I'll never know because there's no way to correct the omission. Wouldn't have been that expensive to insulate the floor before I poured concrete.

If you don't have natural gas on the property, multi-zone 'minisplit' heat pumps are worth a look. The new ones claim to work well below freezing (without using resistance heat), and the compressor adjusts its output to match demand.

Charlie
 
Some great suggestions!

Thanks much for the contributions!

My wife and I are in our very early 60's and very fit. Still...living in a hangar where we are at now and dealing with the up/down of stairs all day does get old, so there's real appeal towards making this all on a single level except for a mezzanine in the hangar for storage.

What are the thoughts of running pneumatic lines in the slab, stubbed out at points around the hangar? PVC? Black pipe? Or something else? Or, just run it above the slab on the walls?

Natural gas isn't an option, so it's electric or propane. I'm interested in the mini-splits, as I've heard they are very efficient. Propane would be extra costs due to tank, plumbing black pipe, etc. Not enough ROI on what will be a part-time abode...

I have a call in to Morton and the salesman is going to call me back...but I'm wondering if framing it in wood vs steel what price differential there'd be.

Re-sale is also a future consideration, and I appreciate the info about an 80x80 giving more "elbow" room. I rented out space in a 60x60 as a biz and with 4 airplanes in there, it was always "move 1...sometimes 2" to get at the one in the back. High hassle factor, for sure.

Bsacks05, why did you decide to use an architect? Lack of availability of finding floorplans elsewhere? (which is what I'm finding)

Thanks again, fellas.
 
I am building a 50x40 in texas as we speak. Here is the breakdown on cost:

Insulated Building kit 50x40x16 with framed 40' opening from whirlwind steel buildings. $22000
50x80 slab for building and ramp with building erection and install 40' schweiss door. $34000
Schweiss 40x14 door with lift straps and strap locks. $9500
Permits $50
Survey $500
Meter base install $1700
Internal wiring completion. $10000
Property cost $7000
Expoxy floor coating. $1500

Total to move in $86250
Cost per sq/ft excluding land $39.62

Nice hangars are NOT cheap!!!
 
We had Morton build our business building back in 1997. They were very easy to deal with and did a great job. They did the entire project as a turnkey - from excavation, slab, the building, electrical, heating, cooling etc. We were very happy with the result and would certainly use them again.

Jim Butcher
 
Lester makes a good hangar, comparable to a Morton and likely less expensive. I prefer the bifold door as it doesn't require much forward clearance to open. One regret I have when I had my hangar built was not having the radiant heat installed in the concrete floor.
 
Lester makes a good hangar, comparable to a Morton and likely less expensive. I prefer the bifold door as it doesn't require much forward clearance to open. One regret I have when I had my hangar built was not having the radiant heat installed in the concrete floor.

No coverage/sales in Texas that I can see on their website...thanks for the point out, though.

I am liking the "retro" look of the Lester and Morton buildings...they remind me of a few old WW2 hangars I have seen with the interiors partially or wholly constructed of wood. Dalhart, Texas has one, so does DeRidder, LA.

If the price is in any way reasonably competitive with steel, I am going with them just for the natural look of wood.

Titanhank, can you break out the cost/sq ft on the foundation concrete work and where at in Texas are you building? Was there a price differential on the foundation vs the flatwork for driveways/walkways/apron?

Thanks to all, very much...
 
I am in south houston on gumbo soil in the 120 mph hurricane zone. The building slab is $9/sqft and the ramp is $4/sqft. The building erection and installing the door is another $4/sqft. It comes out to $34200. The slab is belled and piered and looks like something you would pour for a bank vault.

 
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Talk to R&M Steel in Idaho. They have it all. Mine is a R&M. Very happy. All pieces come marked as it was a rector set ok maybe you are not that old but me and my buddy put it together just like reading the Vans RV plans. Did get a small crane to lift I beams. I never did it before. You'll even get your concrete plans. Tell em you know Ron from Salem Oregon. Maybe you might get hats and shirts too, no promises there but great people. I ordered a bi fold door with a 11' open door by 38 feet.

RV9A Ron in Oregon
 
I am in south houston on gumbo soil in the 120 mph hurricane zone. The building slab is $9/sqft and the ramp is $4/sqft. The building erection and installing the door is another $4/sqft. It comes out to $34200. The slab is belled and piered and looks like something you would pour for a bank vault.


Which costs more; the hangar or the plane it houses??? ;-)
The things we do for our pride and joy!

-Marc
 
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