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Hangar Construction Recommendations?

Mark Dickens

Mark Dickens

Well Known Member
Patron
I am looking at building a 60x60 hangar and was interested in getting recommendations from anyone on companies they've worked with. Ideally, we would go with some sort of standard setup.

I plan to talk to hangar companies exhibiting at SNF as well, but if anyone has any advice or recommendations, it would be greatly appreciated!
 
Your biggest decision, and most complex engineering, is in the door, and depending on the type of door, the support of the structure for it. Outside of that, it is basically just another building.
Typically, the door companies provide some guidance and examples of engineered solutions to support the loads in different types of building construction, steel truss, pole building, stick built, etc...
If you spend a bit of time on the Schweiss, Hydroswing, etc... web sites, I think you will find them helpful.
 
JonJay said:
Your biggest decision, and most complex engineering, is in the door, and depending on the type of door, the support of the structure for it. Outside of that, it is basically just another building.
Typically, the door companies provide some guidance and examples of engineered solutions to support the loads in different types of building construction, steel truss, pole building, stick built, etc...
If you spend a bit of time on the Schweiss, Hydroswing, etc... web sites, I think you will find them helpful.
Click to expand...

Will do! Thanks
 
I went with Metallic - http://www.metallic.com/about-metallic/

A large portion of the cost is shipping expenses.

In my case the building was designed in CA, welded beams made in TX but the bulk of the parts were shipped only a short distance to Tucson from Phoenix.

The parts for my 50 x 67 hangar weighed over 10 tons, so shipping is noticeable in the cost...:) Make sure your bid includes shipping.


As far as standard set-up goes, check the spacing for the main cross beams for the snow load in your area. In Tucson - little snow load... :) ...the spacing is 25 ft - the best price per sq. ft. is for hangars with a depth that is a multiple of this maximum beam spacing.

Make sure the designer explains "bypass girts" (standard) and flush girts (optional) - the flush ones will give you more internal room adjacent to the columns.
 
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JonJay said:
Your biggest decision, and most complex engineering, is in the door, and depending on the type of door, the support of the structure for it. Outside of that, it is basically just another building.
Typically, the door companies provide some guidance and examples of engineered solutions to support the loads in different types of building construction, steel truss, pole building, stick built, etc...
If you spend a bit of time on the Schweiss, Hydroswing, etc... web sites, I think you will find them helpful.
Click to expand...

Total agreement with this!
Find a building company that will interface with your local Building Dept., and your hangar door manufacturer. They should be able to discern the local codes, and send your plans to the municipality for approval. Don't let them start cutting metal before everyone has signed off that it meets local code.
With regard to a door, I went with a Schweiss Bi-Fold, with strap lift. Also, I would recommend having it set up for the remote opener, even if you are not going to use it. As there is extra structure that must be installed on the door frame, it is a project to retrofit if you decide in the future that you want remote control. Some other considerations:
1. Insulation - We built our hangars as a consortium of 14, and some chose not to insulate at all, some just the roof, and a few of us did everything (including the door). It is money well spent, as my hangar is warmer in the winter, cooler in the summer, and does not "sweat" on the inside.
2. Electrical - Decide how many plugs/lights that you will need, and then add about 20%. I installed 3 plugs on each of the three walls, and one on the ceiling for a retractable reel. People thought that I had lost my mind, but after 12 years many have seen that I was right! Also, have the electrical contractor wire up a box for a ceiling fan on the center beam. I found a surplus warehouse grade fan, and installed that. It circulates air which helps cool in the summer, and brings the heat back down in the winter. Also, when the humidity is high, it keeps the air moving, reducing condensation.
3. This may not be important in your area, but the local geology in my area is an issue. The soil in our area is clay, with rock about 12" below the surface. As such, the water does not perk into the ground very well. When I built my hangar, I sourced a vapor barrier similar to what is used in landfills. I contacted a company that does this for a living, and bought their scrap. The majority of the other 13 hangars have issues ranging from minor to "OMG" with moisture seeping up through the slab.
4. Apron - You will see some hangars with a slab that is only about half the width of the hangar out to the taxiway. Then they install angled fillets up to the full width. I did a full width apron, and it is much more utilitarian, especially when you are storing two planes, or trying to get your car in/out of the hangar with the planes in.
5. Skylights and Vents - My hangar is 43'x36'....I have (3) 4'x8' skylight panels in each half of the roof. Additionally, I installed (3) 2'x8' panels in the door. It is a cheap way to take advantage of nature's free light. On a bright full moon night, I get enough illumination to walk inside without turning my lights on.
Make sure you have at least 2 roof vents in a hangar that size. The reasons speak for themselves.
6. Floor Paint - Paint the floor with a good quality epoxy paint BEFORE you move in! Some of my buddies tried to do it in sections after moving in, and it just did not work out for a multitude of reasons. Prep the concrete well prior to painting. I pressure washed to get all the dust and residue off, acid cleaned, and then pressure washed again. 12 years later, not one chip and no bubbling of the paint. It is a given that you will get oil, paint, and debris on the floor. With a quality paint applied, this just cleans right off. In my case, it sure makes it easier to find that dropped washer which I seem to do frequently! Another bonus is that the light color of the floor reflects light adding to the brightness of the hangar.

I am sure that I have bored you enough with my advice. I made a few mistakes along the way, but overall am pretty happy with my abode.
 
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Mark is spot on with several things that I will reinforce...

If you don't insulate, you risk sweating, to the point in some climates of a tropical rain forest effect in the hangar!

The Apron is a big deal. My hangar at home used to have a narrow strip down the center. PIA. Especially with multiple airplanes. I upgraded and now the apron is full width. My other hangar has the narrow strip and widens to full width. Equal PIA.
Spend the extra money and put in the full width apron.

If you can afford it, I like a finished ceiling. Easier to insulate, less space to cool and heat, and makes a good reflective surface for your lighting. Can be a challenge depending on the truss system however.
 
Here are my recommendations.

1. Do 100% of the contracting yourself (easy).

2. Quote and engineered metal insulated and guttered building in your general area.

3. Contract the concrete both for slab and flatwork.

4. The door is a big issue, I would recommend Hi Fold but there are several good choices, quote them all.

5. Contract and quote the electrical yourself.

6.Contract the assembly of the building, and hanging and skinning the door.
Here in N Texas a good number is about 3.75 to 4.00 a foot for assembly.

You can save a significant amount of money contracting each step yourself and it is a simple project.

As always my 2 cents.
 
JonJay said:
Mark is spot on with several things that I will reinforce...

.....Snipped.....

If you can afford it, I like a finished ceiling. Easier to insulate, less space to cool and heat, and makes a good reflective surface for your lighting. Can be a challenge depending on the truss system however.
Click to expand...

Yep..It would be a project now, but wish I would have done that originally.
Your OP asked for info on the companies that do the manufacturing. We quoted Metallic, but went with another company. Nothing wrong with Mettalic, as I have several friends that have them. Our county had some weird code requirements along the way, and it could have been that Metallic was not able to change their design to meet requirements.
 
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Pat Stewart said:
6.Contract the assembly of the building, and hanging and skinning the door.
Here in N Texas a good number is about 3.75 to 4.00 a foot for assembly.
Click to expand...

I am surprised that erection is that high in your part of the world. It doesn't seem so long ago that the going open shop rate was in the $1.00 per foot range. I used to get a lot of calls from folks that had bought a building and been told by the supplier that it could be erected for $1.00 per foot. I always told them to give me his number if they found the guy as there seemed to be lots of people looking for him :rolleyes:

This comment isn't directed specifically at aircraft hangars, but pre-engineered buildings in general..............Ask a lot of questions and know exactly what you are getting.

In my experience it is very common to get a surprise when the building shows up. Clear height isn't what you thought (measured as some different point in the building), it is open web in lieu of solid, and on and on. Make sure you know what you are getting and keep in mind that all metal buildings are not created equal.

And don't even think about erecting it yourself.............only a fool would try to make a water tight structure out of a big pile of sheet metal. OH $&%#..........disregard this comment as we all resemble this remark :D
 
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Hangar door

The hangar doors should be on an end wall so that the ran, ice, and snow will not be sliding down the roof and land in front of the door.
 
DaAV8R said:
I am surprised that erection is that high in your part of the world. It doesn't seem so long ago that the going open shop rate was in the $1.00 per foot range. I used to get a lot of calls from folks that had bought a building and been told by the supplier that it could be erected for $1.00 per foot. I always told them to give me his number if they found the guy as there seemed to be lots of people looking for him :rolleyes:

This comment isn't directed specifically at aircraft hangars, but pre-engineered buildings in general..............Ask a lot of questions and know exactly what you are getting.

In my experience it is very common to get a surprise when the building shows up. Clear height isn't what you thought (measured as some different point in the building), it is open web in lieu of solid, and on and on. Make sure you know what you are getting and keep in mind that all metal buildings are not created equal.

And don't even think about erecting it yourself.............only a fool would try to make a water tight structure out of a big pile of sheet metal. OH $&%#..........disregard this comment as we all resemble this remark :D
Click to expand...
Just curious if you ever got the name of the 1.00 a foot guy. I received multiple bids and this was pretty standard here in Texas and Oklahoma.
 
So as long as this subject came up in the discussion, what is a reasonable size for the apron? I'm planning a 48 x 54 hangar (40-foot door on the 48 side) and wondering how deep to make the apron to make it reasonably usable. Of course bigger is usually better, but at the cost of yards of concrete.

Thanks,
Greg
 
Another 2 cents!

Morton Buildings. These go up in about a week, and the building is the form for the concrete floor. These work well where the soil shifts around a lot, like clay. Mine has an 18' eve height, so an upstairs is good to go. Shoulda ordered a wider door...

If you can build in the off-season, they give substantial discounts.

Door: The fabric doors sure look good. Light comes thru too - that is a bonus. I have a Hi-Fold here, and it works OK, except when an employee lets the door down onto your riding lawn mower...and the door cocks off...and gets bent...

Door installation went smoothly, but next time, I gotta get something that is idiot proof.

Fabric door: http://www.paraportdoor.com

Carry on!
Mark
 
Greg Arehart said:
So as long as this subject came up in the discussion, what is a reasonable size for the apron? I'm planning a 48 x 54 hangar (40-foot door on the 48 side) and wondering how deep to make the apron to make it reasonably usable. Of course bigger is usually better, but at the cost of yards of concrete.

Thanks,
Greg
Click to expand...

Greg - it depends on what you are flying or intend to keep in there. We are lucky that RV's are stubby winged and short. I went with 30', and I can put both the Bucker and the RV6 on the Apron and pretty much spin them around where I need them. However, the Champ with it's 35' wing takes quite a bit more maneuvering if I don't want to push it into the grass.
 
Well I guess Im a fool.

DaAV8R said:
And don't even think about erecting it yourself.............only a fool would try to make a water tight structure out of a big pile of sheet metal. OH $&%#..........disregard this comment as we all resemble this remark :D
Click to expand...

You did mean this in jest I hope. As Sheldon would say; "Sarcasm?"

If you can build an airplane you can put up a steel building?

I erected both of my all steel hangars. One has been standing since 1990. and the other since 2003. If someone else did it, I would just have to re-do it. Several EAA Chapter members helped. It was great fun.
 
Mel said:
You did mean this in jest I hope. .
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Geez...lighten up. Nobody called you a fool.

Yes. I generally don't recommend people erect their own metal buildings, but considering the crowd here the task seems somewhat similar to building a sheet metal airplane. The smiley face was supposed to be an indicator of the "jest". I don't doubt the abilities of anyone here. Quite the contrary.
 
one critical detail missing!!!

Mark, first you gotta find an airport, like mine, where there aren't too many hangars.
Then find a partner, who is willing to sweep it every weekend, in exchange for a corner for his RV ( that would be ME!)

well, a guy can OFFER can't he? :D
 
our hangars are erectatube with electric bi-fold doors. some of the owners sealed the floors with clear concrete sealer. those floors don't look like a million bucks but are holding up well and were easy to do and cost effective.
P1010028.jpg
 
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I have not seen this mentioned. I built a 40x60. Although it is a "toy barn" rather than a hanger. On the front of it I put a 10 foot over hang or porch, and around the other 3 sides there is a two foot concrete apron. The porch is nice for obvious reasons. The two foot apron gives an area for the water to drip on (no gutters) and I can get my mower on the concrete and ride it around the building so I do not have to weed eat.
 
You might think about a concrete densifier with a polished finish like Lowes. It seems this is a masonry product and lasts as long as the concrete. It is on the list for my next concrete slab!
 
I had a 60x60 Butler Steel building erected, but the contractor backed out on the Hydroswing door, citing problems. I designed my own 4 panel rolling door on track. I saved over $10,000 and I can open the doors with one finger.
My son Peter had a 60x60 pole building erected, and made the same rolling door with improvements. Then the Charter Boat Captain on the other end of the field built a Stick Built Hangar, and also made his own rolling door, even mo-betta.
You can build your own 50' doors for about $2500.
 
I built a 60x42 with a 16' lean to beside my house about 5 yrs ago.
dg6otz.jpg

I put a 38' door with a home made hydraulic system that I researched how to build on the internet. The door works great but I avoid leaving it open unattended.
25symbn.jpg

My shop is 42x40 and I built a family room/living quarters out of the other 42x20 section. On top of the living quarters is my storage loft.
35m05ti.jpg

I copied other designs I had seen around our farming community. I had farmed for 20 years using a dirt floor hay barn to do all my repairs and this new hanger/barn has been major high light of my life! I get up at 5 every morning on my days off and bring my coffee out in the barn and go to work on the RV! I made up a list of materials and bid them out to the local steel suppliers. Building it all myself, it cost right at 65,000 but it took me 2 years to finish it all.
 
My hangar is a 60w X 72d w/12'h X 50' door Morton building with a Horton Bifold door.
I didn't insulate it, wish now I had.
I had my second one (shop in town) insulated. Makes a HUGE difference!!
 
turbo said:
our hangars are erectatube with electric bi-fold doors. some of the owners sealed the floors with clear concrete sealer. these floors don't look kill a million bucks but are holding up well and were easy to do and cost effective.
P1010028.jpg
Click to expand...


Never mind the hangar; tell me about the car, Turbo!
 
I may have missed it, but what is the location? On an airport or otherwise subject to codes and restrictions, or out on farmland where no or few codes apply?
I put up two sheds on my farm, one 36X48 insulated and heated and one 48X72, both with Hi-Fold doors and both with concrete floors. My friend is putting up a 48X36 that is subject to codes - a lot of difference in what is permitted to be done and what it costs.
It may pay to run your plan by an insurance agent to see if there are any considerations in that regard.
 
Horton Stack Doors

I love my Horton Stack Doors http://www.hortonstackdoor.com/stackdoor.htm (I am not affiliated with the company but love the product).

I am very fortunate to have bought a home that has such an amazing hanger. There are many things that the builder did right to include the hanger door. I can't imagine ever wanting another type of door.

These doors can be opened in less then a minute by anyone. No electricity, hydraulics, or mechanical leverage is required. Also all the weight is on the bottom track, not suspended from the ceiling/I-beam. They let light in during the day and heat in during the winter months (south facing). Four of the hangars in our Airpark have these doors and the only complaint I have heard was when snow/ice blew into the bottom track and froze making the door impossible to open. My door was unaffected due to the direction of the storm but as I live on a grass strip it was a non issue as no one was able to fly.

o6fpcp.jpg

Here is a view from inside with no lights on.

dmw3yp.jpg

And this is a view from outside

A few other things I like about this hangar are:
Roll up doors on the east and west with hangar door to the south (can always get a breeze to cool it off)
Normal entry way doors on 3 sides of the Hangar (with light switches)
Plumbing inside/outside the hangar (there is an apartment inside as well but I am taking about the work area) not just a sink but hose bibs to wash vehicles/planes
Multiple 240 VAC outlets
Costco/warehouse style lighting (I would use the new LED bulbs now as my lights draw lots of electricity)

Things I would consider:
Adding 2 foot of opaque siding below the roofline to allow even more natural light in
Keeping/building the side walls as high as I could (room for a full 2 story apartment inside)
Having a parking pad in front of the hangar door, mine is only a sidewalk width and I would have liked more
Exterior lighting

I know building a hangar is not cheap but I feel a little extra can go a long way, good luck!

Aloha
 
jnmeade said:
I may have missed it, but what is the location? On an airport or otherwise subject to codes and restrictions, or out on farmland where no or few codes apply?
I put up two sheds on my farm, one 36X48 insulated and heated and one 48X72, both with Hi-Fold doors and both with concrete floors. My friend is putting up a 48X36 that is subject to codes - a lot of difference in what is permitted to be done and what it costs.
It may pay to run your plan by an insurance agent to see if there are any considerations in that regard.
Click to expand...

That is for sure!

After the 4th roadblock ( red tape) at the local airport I threw in the towel and am building on the farm now. Building Cost/headache difference is substantial not to mention no lease fees.
 
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Kilo Charlie,

I need to choose colors now for my hangar and I had already decided on a tan color for the walls. I see you have green for the trim and that looks very nice. Can I ask what color you have for the roof? The hangar is 52 wide x 60 long with 18 ft high walls ( to allow for a 2 story apt in the back). The door is a Diamond Doors bi-fold 46 x 16. Should the door be the same color as the walls or the trim?

Color coordination is not my strong suit by a fair measure so any advise would be appreciated.
 
CDNRV7

CDNRV7,
Most hangars around here have the doors the same color as the walls or white, keeps it cooler I imagine. My Horton Stack doors are a translucent black fiberglass but my roll up doors and entry doors are all white. My roof looks like galvanized steel though you can't see it from the ground. I would guess having a light reflective color would again help with heat deflection. This hangar is located in Arkansas so keeping it cool is important, maybe up north you would like to heat it up...

2zf2vif.jpg


One note on side wall height and being able to build a 2 story apartment. I had to work with a hangar that was already built so I could not change the height, but when I starting measuring and building (built myself and I am not a contractor) I didn't accout for how much room I would lose due to all the Rafters/Beams/Insulation/subfloor/drywall ect... (Yes I did plan for most of it but I felt like every phase of construction shrank my living space) As you can see below I built as high as I could but even with 16' sidewalls I had to come in 10' on each side to be able to stand (5'8") at the far/short walls in the apartment. On the plus side I get extra storage space up stairs. Oh and this hangar is 60' wide by 75' deep. Just food for thought.

furh48.jpg

Please excuse the mess this was during apartment construction
 
Ok, thanks for that. My hangar is a pole built building with wooden trusses so the ceiling is flat across with straight walls. I went with 18' thinking that with standard 8' ceilings in both the bottom and top floors that the extra 2' should be able to account for the floor joists, etc. I am planning on 2 rooms on the bottom on either side with a 12' foot gap in the middle that I will be able to put a tail of an airplane in. That will leave me with 2 rooms about 12x18' Then the top floor would be the entire 12x51. So in the end the hangar open floor will be about 51 x 47 inside dimensions. The entire floor will have in-floor hot water radiant heat.

That is the rough plan at this stage anyway.
 
Hi all, just wanted to update that the hangar construction is well underway, I would post some pictures but don't know how to do that. Went with Kilo Charlies color scheme of Tan walls with green trim. Getting it all closed up will probably be as far I get this year, next year will tackle the floor and insulation.

Ok, figured it out...

29bog01.jpg


2w674p3.jpg


2w6uqt3.jpg



Long way off to that first rivet :)
 
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Lighting?

CDNRV7 said:
Hi all, just wanted to update that the hangar construction is well underway, I would post some pictures but don't know how to do that. Went with Kilo Charlies color scheme of Tan walls with green trim. Getting it all closed up will probably be as far I get this year, next year will tackle the floor and insulation.

Ok, figured it out...
Long way off to that first rivet :)
Click to expand...

Maybe, but that first rivet will be done in a sweet space!

I know we have a lighting expert(s) on VAF, what is the recommended base illumination at the floor level? Consider a hangar like above with a 20' mount height of the light. 10 iso candles seems a little low, but a 400W halide high bay light provides that with a 36' diameter circle from 20' height. What is needed for good general visibility, doing annuals etc, with only a drop light for deep shadows/fine work? 10, 20, 30??
 
BillL said:
Maybe, but that first rivet will be done in a sweet space!

I know we have a lighting expert(s) on VAF, what is the recommended base illumination at the floor level? Consider a hangar like above with a 20' mount height of the light. 10 iso candles seems a little low, but a 400W halide high bay light provides that with a 36' diameter circle from 20' height. What is needed for good general visibility, doing annuals etc, with only a drop light for deep shadows/fine work? 10, 20, 30??
Click to expand...

I designed for 50 ft candles at a 30 inch height off the floor.

This level is good for general work and using low bay light fixtures there is almost no shadowing - the light illuminating the work is coming from multiple directions.
 
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