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Which Annunciator Lights Do You Have or Wish You Had

beav

beav

Well Known Member
I'm trying to plan which annunciator lights to install on my panel, and I wanted to see what lights others have installed or wish they had installed. I looked through the various posts on the forum about annunciator lights, but I want to run my selection by everyone before committing to the final set.

I'm following the philosophy that all lights should be off in the normal (cruise) flight configuration. Lights will be color coded based on how critical the condition is:

red: flight critical
green: normal in certain flight configurations
blue: lighting​

Here's my current thinking:

screenshot20110321atmar.png


master alarm: from the Dynon SkyView system (engine alarms, etc.)
low voltage: from the B&C voltage regulator (alternator failure)
canopy unsafe: canopy is unlatched
co alarm: carbon monoxide detector (may or may not include this)
backup bus: on if the e-bus is powered
fuel pump: on if the fuel pump is on
landing lights: on with the landing lights, flashing if they're wig-wagging
taxi lights: on with the taxi lights
cabin lights: on with the cabin lights​

Thoughts?
 
OK, granted that I haven't actually installed anything on the panel yet, I'm just in the midst of laying it out and acquiring avionics and such, but here is what I'm planning...

No warning lights. Instead, the EFIS (Dynon Skyview) already can alert to all sorts of things like low voltage, low oil pressure, high engine temps, etc. That takes care of most of the important things. The ONLY one I MIGHT consider, and it depends on how the SV deals with annunciating it (haven't played with this off the bench, so we'll have to see) would be Oil Pressure.

I plan on using the Aveo Rockrack switches for the following items, and since they're internally lit, you can tell at a glance if something is on (which is the what you have for many of them. Yes, I know, all I'm seeing is that the SWITCH is on, and the bulb may actually not be, but I'll live with that constraint :) ).

Battery Master (Red switchtop w/ white light)
Alternator

Left Mag
Right Mag
Fuel Pump

E-Buss
Nav
Strobe
Taxi
Landing
Wig-Wag
Cockpit
Map
Panel

Pitot Heat

Flaps Up/Down

So...no Master C&W or other annunciators...
 
Beav,

Here's a few thoughts, but there are many ways to skin this cat.

In the airplane I fly at work, and many others I've flown, the light colors fall into three categories:

Red = Warning = Immediate Action (Fire is the big one).
Yellow (Amber)= Caution = Abnormal or unsafe system or configuration (go to an abnormal checklist)
Blue/Green = System position/status (not abnormal)

There are many permutaions out there, but typically a Master Caution light (yellow) alerts you to a caution light out of your main line of sight, while a Master Fire light (red) alerts you a Fire, and makes you look to the Fire Panel. If all of your annunciators are in your immediate view, you may not need that Master Caution. However, if you tie it to the Dynon alert system, you can use it to draw your attention to the EFIS warning, or use it as an attention-getter in any case.

Here's my annunciator panel:
annunpanel.JPG


I have a "classic" Dynon EFIS and a VM-1000 EMS, so I wanted the Oil P and Alt Off (Low Volts) lights in my face, since I do not have Dynon EMS warnings. I chose colors that were a bit like my work aircraft (KISS for a simple mind ;))

I went with Red for Low Oil P (immediate action in a single, IMHO), Yellow for Low Volts (matches the Amber Electrical system abnormal lights for my work aircraft), Blue for Fuel Pump On (matches the color of fuel valve and x-feed lights at work), and Green for Landing Light on (green is gear down at work, so Landing Light/Landing Gear...like I said...simple mind!)

You have a good array of lights. Here's some opinion, and just thinkin' out loud, all FWIW:

I don't see an Oil P light, but that (and maybe the CO warning) would probably be the only ones I'd make red.

Master Caution (if you keep it) could be yellow, or perhaps red, if it is drawing your eyes to the EFIS warning bar, which is red on the classic Dynon EFIS.

Canopy and Low Voltage cautions, I'd suggest be yellow (electrical and door lights at work are yellow, so that'd be my reasoning for me).

Not sure what causes the backup bus to come on, but if its because the main bus has failed, its an electrical abnormal, and I'd go with yellow. If its just a selectable bus, then green or blue, as you've done.

On the lights, LL and TL are good, but not sure I'd make the lights flash if wig-wag was on. Flashing lights in the cockpit are a distraction. Perhaps the only reason to turn off the wig-wag would be if its distracting in IMC conditions, or when you're close to the ground at night, and you won't need a flashing cockpit light to tell ya that. Not sure about the cabin light indicator...you'll know if they are on at night, and if they'er on in the daytime, no harm...they'll go off when the batt switch goes off on shutdown, so perhaps an annunciator is not needed.

Not trying to beat ya up, or refer to my work set up too much...just relating my decision process, and giving food for thought. Have fun setting it up in a way that looks good to you and gives you the info you need!

Cheers,
Bob
 
Since I am planning on a SkyView and VP-X integrated system, I'm planning on using the Flightdeck Solutions FDS-K2 switches. Dual LED, and internally backlit, with custom engraved legends they'll look the shizz-nizz on the panel methinks...
511-large.jpg


For annunciators, and I'm planning on having a few, I'm also going the FDS route, with their AN-1 annunciators. Again, custom, laser-engraved legends.
502-large.jpg
 
Do not underestimate the utility of a simple Oil Pressure light wired directly to a pressure switch coming off an oil gallery somewhere on the engine. If you're going to have an EFIS, all of the serious monitoring and annunciation will be taken care of - assuming the EFIS is operating. but if you ever have to ferry the airplane somewhere after an electronics problem, or have to secure the electronics in flight for some reason, you can still be pretty confident that if the engine is running, and it has oil pressure, it is going to keep running.

I fly a really fancy aerospace machine for my day job, and while it has thousands of measured parameters that are limit-checked and annunciated through the computers, there is still a simple hardware Caution and Warning system underlying it all, should the computers go belly up (in training, they always do). I carry that philosophy into my own experimental aircraft by building enough computer-independent annunciation into the system, to fly without the EFIS if I have to (in a pinch).

Paul
 
Ironflight said:
Do not underestimate the utility of a simple Oil Pressure light wired directly to a pressure switch coming off an oil gallery somewhere on the engine. If you're going to have an EFIS, all of the serious monitoring and annunciation will be taken care of - assuming the EFIS is operating. but if you ever have to ferry the airplane somewhere after an electronics problem, or have to secure the electronics in flight for some reason, you can still be pretty confident that if the engine is running, and it has oil pressure, it is going to keep running.

I fly a really fancy aerospace machine for my day job, and while it has thousands of measured parameters that are limit-checked and annunciated through the computers, there is still a simple hardware Caution and Warning system underlying it all, should the computers go belly up (in training, they always do). I carry that philosophy into my own experimental aircraft by building enough computer-independent annunciation into the system, to fly without the EFIS if I have to (in a pinch).

Paul
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm seriously considering that...although that would imply multiple, independent failures (something electrical and something mechanical in the engine) simultaneously.

(I argued for a MC&W light on our fancy aerospace machine at work, but since there'd be nobody there to actually see it... :) )
 
I have four warning lights
1- Engine master light which is part of EIS and warn about critical item (oil pressure, etc)
2- Alt low/over voltage
3 - Pitot heat (if it fails) and not when it is on
4 - Canopy closed (if it is open or unlatched)

They are placed away from direct view as it can be very distractive but will not be missed if they ever go off.
 
I'd say to eliminate the annunciator lights for the lights. No need for them.

The fuel pump should be yellow and come on if its operation does not match the switch setting. That is, if the pump fails when it's invoked, or operates when it's not, then its light can come on. For normal operation it doesn't need a light.

The switches for all these items should be like toggle switches, so that the switch position is clearly obvious at a glance.

Since they are all in a row, and presumably easily visible, the master alarm one is redundant and can be eliminated.

That removes half the annunciator panel, for a weight and simplicity improvement.

In general, look for ways to simplify the systems and I'll bet you'll find them.

Dave
 
Back to the question as to what I wish I'd installed...

The only one is the fuel pump. I have low volt and master caution lights, but I really wish I'd installed a fuel pump light to begin with.
 
David Paule said:
The fuel pump should be yellow and come on if its operation does not match the switch setting. That is, if the pump fails when it's invoked, or operates when it's not, then its light can come on. For normal operation it doesn't need a light. Dave
Click to expand...
Any idea how this can be accomplished absent of complicated circuitry. I would be very interested to learn and possibly add it to my panel. That is for the light to come on if the switched turned to ON position and pump is not running. The desired setup for me is that the failure of the added component (warning light or any other relay in between would not cause the pump to stop running)

Appreciate the thought and experience.

Mehrdad
P.S. This is how my Dynon Pitot heat is setup but the light was part of their circuitry.
 
I have a light for the fuel pump, a light for the starter, a light for my electronic ignition and the warning light on my GRT EIS 4000.
 
Bavafa said:
Any idea how this can be accomplished absent of complicated circuitry. I would be very interested to learn and possibly add it to my panel. That is for the light to come on if the switched turned to ON position and pump is not running. The desired setup for me is that the failure of the added component (warning light or any other relay in between would not cause the pump to stop running)
Click to expand...

You get this for free with the Vertical Power boxes since they alert you when a device isn't drawing any current.

That said, I really do want a light to be on when the pump is running because I want a reminder to turn it off after reaching a safe altitude.
 
Fuel boost pump light.
Master on light, only on when engine is not running.
Low/high voltage light
EMS for all other warnings.
 
Starter Engaged Light

Do those that have a starter engaged light (wired from the 4th post on the starter contactor) find it a useful indication?
 
Exhaust Gas temp

The other day just starting to lean the engine, I got a warning from my GRT EFIS that #3 was over 1500, so went back to full rich and landed. Ran engine up and took off again, temps normal so was happy to have the EFIS set up as it was.

Engine gurus, any ideas as to cause?
 
Jerry Cochran said:
The other day just starting to lean the engine, I got a warning from my GRT EFIS that #3 was over 1500, so went back to full rich and landed. Ran engine up and took off again, temps normal so was happy to have the EFIS set up as it was.

Engine gurus, any ideas as to cause?
Click to expand...

Not an engine guru, but not sure what the mistery is? Or is it that I am not understanding the question.
As you lean, the EGT will rise and very likely will go above 1500 F. It seems you leaned more then ususal and your #3 got there first.
 
Fuel pressure warning light

Not sure if you have an EIFS and engine monitor or not, absent of one that can have different alarms, I would want a fuel pressure gauge/warning light. For me, it is more critical to know if some thing is not right with my fuel pressure.
 
Ironflight said:
Do not underestimate the utility of a simple Oil Pressure light wired directly to a pressure switch coming off an oil gallery somewhere on the engine.
Click to expand...

EFIS or not this is a good idea because it takes a period of time for an EFIS or engine monitor to boot. By the time the EFIS fires up and you don't already have oil pressure by then its too late...you have a trashed engine.
 
rocketbob said:
EFIS or not this is a good idea because it takes a period of time for an EFIS or engine monitor to boot. By the time the EFIS fires up and you don't already have oil pressure by then its too late...you have a trashed engine.
Click to expand...

This is exactly why I changed the -8 over to a plain old pressure switch right off the engine for oil pressure. Oil pressure can't wait for the magic box to warm up...
 
rocketbob said:
EFIS or not this is a good idea because it takes a period of time for an EFIS or engine monitor to boot. By the time the EFIS fires up and you don't already have oil pressure by then its too late...you have a trashed engine.
Click to expand...

I don't understand the reasoning here...the EFIS/EMS is powered on before and during engine start, by design.
 
Flying Scotsman said:
I don't understand the reasoning here...the EFIS/EMS is powered on before and during engine start, by design.
Click to expand...

Not all of them and depending on how it has been wired. Most EIFS are powered on with a separate switch and after the engine has been cranked/started and it takes a bit of time to boot. GRT EIS is an example of those that can be wired directly and it takes seconds to load so it could be used in that purpose.
 
Bavafa said:
Not all of them and depending on how it has been wired. Most EIFS are powered on with a separate switch and after the engine has been cranked/started and it takes a bit of time to boot. GRT EIS is an example of those that can be wired directly and it takes seconds to load so it could be used in that purpose.
Click to expand...

I guess so, but that seems to defeat some of the purpose of an EMS...without it powered on during start, you don't have oil pressure, RPM, fuel pressure, etc., unless you have analog backups, in which case, why have the EMS?

I'm wiring mine directly to the main buss (E-buss, actually)...Battery Master on powers up the EFIS and it stays on throughout engine start, so I can see everything I need during engine cranking and start.
 
Flying Scotsman said:
I'm wiring mine directly to the main buss (E-buss, actually)...Battery Master on powers up the EFIS and it stays on throughout engine start, so I can see everything I need during engine cranking and start.
Click to expand...

That's fine if the box can withstand the severe voltage drop when the engine is cranking. Some drop off line.

As far as I'm concerned, the only critical measurement during the first 30 seconds is oil pressure. Adequate fuel pressure and RPM are indicated by the turning propeller.
 
Flying Scotsman said:
I guess so, but that seems to defeat some of the purpose of an EMS...without it powered on during start, you don't have oil pressure, RPM, fuel pressure, etc., unless you have analog backups, in which case, why have the EMS?

I'm wiring mine directly to the main buss (E-buss, actually)...Battery Master on powers up the EFIS and it stays on throughout engine start, so I can see everything I need during engine cranking and start.
Click to expand...

The GRT EIS does reboot during the engine start if you have it on the main bus (the voltage sags down to about 8.5 when you are cranking), but it also reboots very, very fast (like a second) - you will probably not notice it unless you are looking, and even then, it will be up and running so fast that nothing bad can happen (that the EIS would catch for you) during that time.

That said, I use an isolated Aux battery and dioded power supply to the critical boxes (EFIS/EIS) that get powered up before engine start - not so much so that they are up for the start, but so that I am ready to go as soon as the engine gets stabilized. I hate sitting there, blowing stuff all over the parking area/ramp while waiting for the platform to align.

Oh, and I have the oil pressure light in case everything else dies (as I mentioned above).

Paul
 
My projects include an oil pressure activated switch, Van's sells, 'em. NC side (no pressure) illuminates a really big yellow light on the panel next to the master switch. It's primarily an idiot light to remind me I left the master on - a fault of the pilot that has occurred infinitely more often than any engine fault. Located where it is, right next to the ignition switches, it serendipitously guides my eyes to the ignitions which also probably were left on. The NO side powers up the Hobbs. Also, you won't trash your engine without oil pressure for a few seconds. Even aircraft manuals tell you to shut down in such-and-such time if no indication, and it's not instantaneous. I think my 172 manual says 30 seconds.

As to the proposed array leading off this thread, some of those lights are awfully vague. "Master Alarm", "Canopy Unsafe". If you're going to go to the bother of putting in all those concomitant sensors, fuses, and wiring, at least make the alarm specific - say what it is (Canopy Unlatched) so you can take immediate, direct action.

I don't miss or want any other lights. Those boxes that do send out an alarm do a good enough job of getting my attention without ancillary lights.

John Siebold
 
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I let the Dynon handle all those duties but one.

I have a green LED at the top of my panel, right in front of the pilot. It is tied into the fuel pump. It is there to remind me to turn the thing on for takeoff and off after I have left it on for an extended period of time.

The Dynon is great because it gives you both an audio tone and puts a bar on the bottom of the screen to let you know something is out of bounds.
 
Ironflight said:
The GRT EIS does reboot during the engine start if you have it on the main bus (the voltage sags down to about 8.5 when you are cranking), but it also reboots very, very fast (like a second) - you will probably not notice it unless you are looking, and even then, it will be up and running so fast that nothing bad can happen (that the EIS would catch for you) during that time.

That said, I use an isolated Aux battery and dioded power supply to the critical boxes (EFIS/EIS) that get powered up before engine start - not so much so that they are up for the start, but so that I am ready to go as soon as the engine gets stabilized. I hate sitting there, blowing stuff all over the parking area/ramp while waiting for the platform to align.

Oh, and I have the oil pressure light in case everything else dies (as I mentioned above).

Paul
Click to expand...

The Dynon has a backup battery, so I'm expecting that after power-on, it will stay on during engine start...basically, a dedicated battery which does what you've set up for multiple devices. We'll see how that works out in practice :)

Good points, though, about the attention-grabbing warning light and redundant capability...
 
The annunciator lights I really want

After flying my RV for a few years, I really wish I had included the following lights when I was building:

  • "Ride Arrived" - To indicate when the person who is picking me up is 10 min away.
  • "Passenger Sick" - A warning that the person who says "I feel great, let's do some more." really doesn't feel great. :D
 
Passenger Sick Alert

  • "Passenger Sick" - A warning that the person who says "I feel great, let's do some more." really doesn't feel great. :D
Click to expand...

A camera pointed at the passenger and some face analysis software should make this one pretty trivial. Let me know when you have the software working and I'll beta test it for you. :p
 
David Paule said:
I'd say to eliminate the annunciator lights for the lights. No need for them.

The fuel pump should be yellow and come on if its operation does not match the switch setting. That is, if the pump fails when it's invoked, or operates when it's not, then its light can come on. For normal operation it doesn't need a light.

The switches for all these items should be like toggle switches, so that the switch position is clearly obvious at a glance.

Since they are all in a row, and presumably easily visible, the master alarm one is redundant and can be eliminated.

That removes half the annunciator panel, for a weight and simplicity improvement.

In general, look for ways to simplify the systems and I'll bet you'll find them.

Dave
Click to expand...

We have three lights only; Alternator, oil pressure, and Dynon alarm.
 
rvmills said:
Beav,

Here's a few thoughts, but there are many ways to skin this cat.

In the airplane I fly at work, and many others I've flown, the light colors fall into three categories:

Red = Warning = Immediate Action (Fire is the big one).
Yellow (Amber)= Caution = Abnormal or unsafe system or configuration (go to an abnormal checklist)
Blue/Green = System position/status (not abnormal)

There are many permutaions out there, but typically a Master Caution light (yellow) alerts you to a caution light out of your main line of sight, while a Master Fire light (red) alerts you a Fire, and makes you look to the Fire Panel. If all of your annunciators are in your immediate view, you may not need that Master Caution. However, if you tie it to the Dynon alert system, you can use it to draw your attention to the EFIS warning, or use it as an attention-getter in any case.

Here's my annunciator panel:
annunpanel.JPG


I have a "classic" Dynon EFIS and a VM-1000 EMS, so I wanted the Oil P and Alt Off (Low Volts) lights in my face, since I do not have Dynon EMS warnings. I chose colors that were a bit like my work aircraft (KISS for a simple mind ;))

I went with Red for Low Oil P (immediate action in a single, IMHO), Yellow for Low Volts (matches the Amber Electrical system abnormal lights for my work aircraft), Blue for Fuel Pump On (matches the color of fuel valve and x-feed lights at work), and Green for Landing Light on (green is gear down at work, so Landing Light/Landing Gear...like I said...simple mind!)

You have a good array of lights. Here's some opinion, and just thinkin' out loud, all FWIW:

I don't see an Oil P light, but that (and maybe the CO warning) would probably be the only ones I'd make red.

Master Caution (if you keep it) could be yellow, or perhaps red, if it is drawing your eyes to the EFIS warning bar, which is red on the classic Dynon EFIS.

Canopy and Low Voltage cautions, I'd suggest be yellow (electrical and door lights at work are yellow, so that'd be my reasoning for me).

Not sure what causes the backup bus to come on, but if its because the main bus has failed, its an electrical abnormal, and I'd go with yellow. If its just a selectable bus, then green or blue, as you've done.

On the lights, LL and TL are good, but not sure I'd make the lights flash if wig-wag was on. Flashing lights in the cockpit are a distraction. Perhaps the only reason to turn off the wig-wag would be if its distracting in IMC conditions, or when you're close to the ground at night, and you won't need a flashing cockpit light to tell ya that. Not sure about the cabin light indicator...you'll know if they are on at night, and if they'er on in the daytime, no harm...they'll go off when the batt switch goes off on shutdown, so perhaps an annunciator is not needed.

Not trying to beat ya up, or refer to my work set up too much...just relating my decision process, and giving food for thought. Have fun setting it up in a way that looks good to you and gives you the info you need!

Cheers,
Bob
Click to expand...

Any one know who makes a enuuciator panel like this one as it is just what I am looking for in a panel upgrade and need something like this, haven't been able to locate or find anything online like it for some led enunciator I want to install? Looking for the mounting plate and flush mounted lens company for my plane.

Thanks for replies and help.
 
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CenAir said:
Any one know who makes a enuuciator panel like this one as it is just what I am looking for in a panel upgrade and need something like this, haven't been able to locate or find anything online like it for some led enunciator I want to install? Looking for the mounting plate and flush mounted lens company for my plane.

Thanks for replies and help.
Click to expand...

Bob had previously said his annunciator panel was DIY with indicators from here -

http://www.mpja.com/LED-Indicators-Lights/products/485/
 
CenAir said:
Thanks and a lot of LED'S can be used and found, but was trying to find the flush mount for them, and wondering if anyone knows who makes it as that part doesn't look like a DIY?
Click to expand...

az_gila said:
A good DIY looks professional...:)

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=296732&postcount=8
Click to expand...

Thanks Gil (and thanks to Paul and others for the ideas I stole!)

CenAir, like you, I wanted something flush (or nearly so) and I wanted it to look sharp, with the lights all squared-up. When I decided on the lights I wanted, I then decided to make the annunciator panel the same size as the Monroy traffic watch above the other EFIS (just for symmetry...how you size your annunciator will depend on number of lights and panel geometry).

panel%2520left.jpg


With my design, we started by cutting a matching-sized opening to the Monroy opening in the panel overlay (my panel overlay was CNC cut). Next, we fabricated the panel bezel that the lights fit in. The panel overlay is .090, so that is how thick that black bezel is. That bezel, and the slot in it for the lights were also CNC cut, but could be done in a machine shop or by hand (with time and care). Behind the bezel are two more pieces of metal. The first is wider than the bezel by enough to hold a nutplate on each side (for the mounting screw seen on each side). That piece also has a rectangular slot cut in it for the light housings to fit through. The third layer of metal has round holes cut for the light barrels to fit through for mounting them in place (the lights look like this, as you know):

image.jpg


The trick to flush mounting is to make the middle metal layer of the sandwhich above just the right thickness, so it puts the third layer (with the round holes) back far enough to recess the light the correct amount. My lights ended up with the light housings flush, and the colored lenses just barely proud of the panel...but I like the way it turned out.

annunpanel.JPG


The three layers of metal (flush-mount bezel, attachment and depth-setting layer, and light barrel mounting layer can all be riveted together, then the flush layer can be painted to match the panel, as desired.

Hope that makes sense...easier to show than to describe, but I'm on the road, and don't have any other pics on the iPad...so if ya have any questions, fire away!

Just one method...I asked the guy who helped me do this if he would cut parts for me if I ever wanted to make these to offer for sale, but he wasn't interested...so perhaps there is an untapped market for an entrepreneurial fella or gal!?! ;)

Cheers,
Bob
 
I have one single master caution light driven by both the GRT EFIS and the GRT EIS through a pair of small diodes. It is mounted front and center. Its power is full bus voltage with nav light switch off (daytime) but it is switched to the panel light dimmer voltage when nav light switch is on. The EIS stays on during start so I get oil P monitor/warning that way.

When the light comes on, I look at the EFIS (if not already) or EIS to see what the issue is since there will be a flashing text noting the problem.

The only unexpected problem with this scenario is that obstacle warnings while on the ground will light it up. It goes away a few hundred feet AGL. I don't want to turn this feature off because of a few towers on mountaintops around here. Otherwise is works fine.
 
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with a programmable microcontroller

I am about to start down this path again. Because its easier for me to write code than to design circuits, I'm thinking of driving my annunciators with a programmable microcontroller. This way I can also build in some logic. Has anyone already gone down this road?

My plan is for all LEDs to light for 1-2 seconds when power is first applied (master on), then perhaps flash once. I would also have a push to test, a dimmer, and an Acknowledge button (possibly built into the LED). I intend to have the alarm LEDs flash when first tripped, then go to steady on when acknowledged.

I am thinking about:

Master Caution (Red) - Possibly driven from an EMS/EIS
Alternator/Low Voltage (Red) - Set value? Senses main buss not ebuss
Master On (Yellow) - On only when master on and engine not running. Alt annunciator light might suffice for this.
Electronic Ignition (Red) - Flash if engine running and EI power off, on solid if engine not running and EI power on. How to tell engine on? oil pressure?
Oil Pressure (Red) - On if master on and no oil pressure
E-buss enabled - Yellow - on when ebuss switch is closed (not same thing as energized, needs to compare voltage across ebuss diode?
Fuel Pump - Green - On solid when pump running
Smoke Armed/Smoke On - Blue - On solid when armed, Flash when smoking
 
There are some schematics for annunciator controllers here http://54.204.241.138/redmine/documents/30

These devices are also available as kits or boards from Makerplane.

As for microprocessor controlled annunciators, isn't that what an EIS is for? I put 6 annunciators on my panel, with push-to-test and dimming. Originally this was because I had a single SkyView EFIS and there was not room on the screen for the status indications that I wanted.

Now, I am the process of adding a second screen, so these are mostly redundant. Nevertheless, a master alarm, fuel pump, smoke status and pitot status would still be useful.
 
I light I use the most is egt max limit. having glazed cylinders before installing sensors on all 4 cylinders, I watch egt's closely now. it usually lights up when I am busy attending to other things, so a bar graph is not enough.
 
Between the graphical displays with RED or YELLOW regions, the flashing text next to them when they exceed allowable flight limits, the flashing CAUTION or WARNING message on the EFIS, and the audio in my headset saying "OIL PRESSURE" or whatever, I think I'm okay without the additional lights, bells and buzzers. :)

I do have lighted switches (Aveo), though, so I can see at a glance which devices are on (Pitot Heat, for example). I do have a couple of things also wired to the EFIS and it will display status "lights" (Pitot Heat on, Starter Engaged, etc.).

I think part of the advantage of an EFIS like the Skyview system is not having to clutter up a panel with additional lights (which may themselves fail).
 
I decided I wanted some indicators separate from my EFIS. I know others may think this is just clutter on the panel and each is allowed their own opinion and implementation. I'm still early in the panel process.

There are some advantages of not using a micro since some of the functions could be pretty basic such as an oil pressure switch could drive a indicator directly and adding a micro in the loop certainly wouldn't make it more reliable. Other functions it may make more sense.

I used Front Panel Express to make the frame for my annunciator panel. I'll take a picture and post it. I would be happy to share the files for the panel portion and you could either use it or use it as a starting point. I had planned on building my own version of something like Vern has it seems to make the most sense.
 
RV7A Flyer said:
Between the graphical displays with RED or YELLOW regions, the flashing text next to them when they exceed allowable flight limits, the flashing CAUTION or WARNING message on the EFIS, and the audio in my headset saying "OIL PRESSURE" or whatever, I think I'm okay without the additional lights, bells and buzzers. :)

I do have lighted switches (Aveo), though, so I can see at a glance which devices are on (Pitot Heat, for example). I do have a couple of things also wired to the EFIS and it will display status "lights" (Pitot Heat on, Starter Engaged, etc.).

I think part of the advantage of an EFIS like the Skyview system is not having to clutter up a panel with additional lights (which may themselves fail).
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...Oddly, the pitot heat lamp must be On when the pitot heat switch is Off. At least this is required for certified aircraft and it's the way pitot heat controllers work.

Also, what is more reliable... An LED lamp circuit or a complex hardware-software system?
 
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vlittle said:
...Oddly, the pitot heat lamp must be On when the pitot heat switch is Off. At least this is required for certified aircraft and it's the way pitot heat controllers work.

Also, what is more reliable... An LED lamp circuit or a complex hardware-software system?
Click to expand...

I hadn't realized that about the Pitot heat switch...not that I'll change mine, but that's interesting, nonetheless.

As for reliability...that depends. But if you think that your EFIS/EMS is less reliable than a light bulb, you probably shouldn't have it in your plane :).

I'm being facetious, of course, but reliability (like safety) is a complex arena, and involves emergent properties of systems. For examples, what's the expected lifetime of an LED? Number of cycles? How is that "proven" by the manufacturer? What if you get one of the ones which lies outside of the 3-sigma (or 6-sigma, if you want) range, and it fails earlier than spec'd? Is a discrete signal (off or on) for the monitored items more or less reliable than a continuous variable display? Etc., etc.

It's an interesting question, of course. But I'll stick with EFIS and avoid visual clutter on the panel :).
 
rvmills said:
Thanks Gil (and thanks to Paul and others for the ideas I stole!)

CenAir, like you, I wanted something flush (or nearly so) and I wanted it to look sharp, with the lights all squared-up. When I decided on the lights I wanted, I then decided to make the annunciator panel the same size as the Monroy traffic watch above the other EFIS (just for symmetry...how you size your annunciator will depend on number of lights and panel geometry).

panel%2520left.jpg


With my design, we started by cutting a matching-sized opening to the Monroy opening in the panel overlay (my panel overlay was CNC cut). Next, we fabricated the panel bezel that the lights fit in. The panel overlay is .090, so that is how thick that black bezel is. That bezel, and the slot in it for the lights were also CNC cut, but could be done in a machine shop or by hand (with time and care). Behind the bezel are two more pieces of metal. The first is wider than the bezel by enough to hold a nutplate on each side (for the mounting screw seen on each side). That piece also has a rectangular slot cut in it for the light housings to fit through. The third layer of metal has round holes cut for the light barrels to fit through for mounting them in place (the lights look like this, as you know):

image.jpg


The trick to flush mounting is to make the middle metal layer of the sandwhich above just the right thickness, so it puts the third layer (with the round holes) back far enough to recess the light the correct amount. My lights ended up with the light housings flush, and the colored lenses just barely proud of the panel...but I like the way it turned out.

annunpanel.JPG


The three layers of metal (flush-mount bezel, attachment and depth-setting layer, and light barrel mounting layer can all be riveted together, then the flush layer can be painted to match the panel, as desired.

Hope that makes sense...easier to show than to describe, but I'm on the road, and don't have any other pics on the iPad...so if ya have any questions, fire away!

Just one method...I asked the guy who helped me do this if he would cut parts for me if I ever wanted to make these to offer for sale, but he wasn't interested...so perhaps there is an untapped market for an entrepreneurial fella or gal!?! ;)

Cheers,
Bob
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Bob

Great info and exactly what I was looking for, what brand enunciator did you use as they came out great and wondering who did the etching for the lettering as nice flush led lights is what I am trying to achieve. Looks like they can be dimmed too and looking for more information and schematics foe the same ?

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
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