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  #21  
Old 05-02-2015, 07:14 PM
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rleffler rleffler is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Auburntsts View Post
So how often are you guys pulling the front seats out that make having the seat mod (s) worthwhile?
Way more than you think you would. It's easier to make one of the two mods instead of taking the flap rod cover off every time.

I did the mod that Scott referenced. Both seem to work just fine.
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  #22  
Old 05-02-2015, 09:42 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by rleffler View Post
I did the mod that Scott referenced. Both seem to work just fine.
It is the only one I can really recommend because it maintains the full integrity of the seat attachment to the track.
Trimming the aft portion off of the track has no influence because the position of the seat in flight (even for someone with very long legs) puts it no where near the aft end of the track.
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  #23  
Old 05-02-2015, 10:11 PM
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I've only built 6 RV10's and have removed/installed seats MANY MANY times. I have never removed the flap covers or even the carpet. I must be missing something in regard to all of these 'seat mods' that are required ?


Quote:
Originally Posted by rleffler View Post
Way more than you think you would. It's easier to make one of the two mods instead of taking the flap rod cover off every time.

I did the mod that Scott referenced. Both seem to work just fine.
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Last edited by rv6rick : 05-02-2015 at 10:15 PM.
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  #24  
Old 05-05-2015, 06:47 PM
Strasnuts Strasnuts is offline
 
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I just swear a bit while I jam the seat forward and aft until I dent the flap cover enough to pull the back of the seat up. I then bang the inside of the RV with the seal rails until I forcefully get it out the door. I walk down the wing and jump on the step that flexes with the added weight and finally open a beer.
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  #25  
Old 05-05-2015, 07:08 PM
Jackm Jackm is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Strasnuts View Post
I just swear a bit while I jam the seat forward and aft until I dent the flap cover enough to pull the back of the seat up. I then bang the inside of the RV with the seal rails until I forcefully get it out the door. I walk down the wing and jump on the step that flexes with the added weight and finally open a beer.
Lol!!! Sean uh huh...and you are the one that designed the third latch with clever enginuity... Your seats probably auto lift and pivot out of the door opening with a remote app from your iPhone...knowing your capabilities
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  #26  
Old 05-05-2015, 07:23 PM
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chazking chazking is offline
 
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Default Seats Removal

I did not build "In Excess." I've have had to learn the plane piece-by-piece. Wiring, ailerons, & working under the panel have all benefited from seat removal.

In the past removing the seat rails was very painful. After Jesse Saint's change to the back of the rails, the seats are removed/replaced in less than 10 mins.

I have removed the seats at least three times in the past year. Removal is, now, always my first option rather then my last (as in the past).

Removing the piece at the back of the rails for me is a real time saver!
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  #27  
Old 05-05-2015, 08:37 PM
BobTurner BobTurner is offline
 
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Originally Posted by rv6rick View Post
I've only built 6 RV10's and have removed/installed seats MANY MANY times. I have never removed the flap covers or even the carpet. I must be missing something in regard to all of these 'seat mods' that are required ?
Rick, you must be doing the mod in your sleep and have forgotten about it. The standard -10 seats hit the flap cover before they can come far enough aft to be free of the rail.
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  #28  
Old 05-05-2015, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by paul330 View Post
I'm getting lots of opinions but it's really hard to tie you guys down to a definitive!!

So, top of the guides attached to the seat - remove some of the plastic and you get enough flex space to get the seats in - is that it?
Yep. All you have to do is chamfer that front edge of the plastic/UHMW to about a 45 degree angle. That allows the rear of the seat to tip up just before it hits the flap covers. Takes just a few minutes and requires no metal grinding.
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  #29  
Old 05-07-2015, 09:30 AM
douglassmt douglassmt is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woxofswa View Post
I did exactly that. Works great. Much easier and cleaner than shaving the rails IMO.

The other half of the seat mod is to attach nutplates on the bottom of the plate where the rear slide stop attaches. A little more work initially, but well worth it. To remove the seats post mod, instead of having to remove the four bolts of the T latch (which face the sidewall), you simply remove the two bolts of the rear stop that are upright and easy to access with a socket extension. With these two mods, removing the seats is a two minute job each. Remove the two rear stop bolts, pull the T handle, and the seat slides right out clean. Both mods are no brainers and should be incorporated into the Van's manual. They have both been discussed on the forums extensively in the past with details and pictures.

In my humble opinion, these seat mods, the Matco nosewheel/axle, and the Planearound door mod are the singular three most important/useful mods of any RV10 project. Friends don't let friends build without them. Van's has a terrific design, but all three of these items SHOULD BE DIRECTLY INCORPORATED INTO THE FACTORY PLANS. The icing on the cake, however, would have to be Geoff's overhead console.
Ditto on everything. The nutplates on the back of the seat rails may be the best mod. If you have to remove your seats even once it is worth it vs the bruised knuckles and blue words that go with removing the T handle. One factor that isn't considered is how often you HAVE to remove the seats vs how often you may WANT to remove your seats to check control fittings, fuel lines, and other important stuff under them. If you WANT to but don't HAVE to you won't do it. Cutting the bevel on the front of the plastic guides is the way to go.
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  #30  
Old 05-07-2015, 02:18 PM
BobTurner BobTurner is offline
 
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Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
It is the only one I can really recommend because it maintains the full integrity of the seat attachment to the track.
Trimming the aft portion off of the track has no influence because the position of the seat in flight (even for someone with very long legs) puts it no where near the aft end of the track.
Frankly I disagree with this statement. Full aft the seat track hangs well aft of the rail already. My rudder pedals are in the aft position, so I have had some tall pilots in the right seat position the seat well aft. And when just two aboard my wife often has the seat full aft just so the stick is not in the way of a book in her lap. I would opt for the 'trim a bit of the front plastic' option.
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