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  #11  
Old 01-15-2018, 12:24 PM
Tacco Tacco is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: White Salmon, WA
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Thanks guys. Have looked at all of these suggestions plus some. No joy. Van's did confirm that the 1207B-25 rear stub spar is the standard issue part, I presume oversize to account for filing and fitting.

For those of you that had skin interference, particularly on the bottom wing skin, did it leave a mark on the fuselage when you were fitting the wing the first time? Mine is close, but not contacting when I stop pushing and get under the wing to look at it. Again, I pushed it pretty hard (audible "clunk) and you'd think it would leave a mark. I'm thinking I might shave off a 16th inch from the shin just to be certain. Will have to do that before I put the seal on anyway.

Thoughts?

Last edited by Tacco : 01-15-2018 at 02:37 PM.
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  #12  
Old 01-15-2018, 02:17 PM
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engineerofsorts engineerofsorts is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Austin, Texas
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Default One technique to use as an indicator of spar stub length

On our student-built RV-12 completed last spring, we force-fit (don't force it, get a bigger hammer ) the spar pins and had a painful time removing them. One method we found for determining whether the REAR spar stubs need trimming was to remove the sloping seat pan and then check the spar pin fit. As you tap the pins in, if the vertical bulkhead (where the 12-volt jack is) starts buckling, its a good indication of the spar pins being too long. We marked the edges of the pins with a marker pen, inserted and wiggled a bit, and kept filing the high points off until the pins could be inserted with minimal distortion of that bulkhead. If the FRONT spar stubs are too long, I suspect you would not see the distortion of the bulkhead, so I would start filing the front stubs first in that case. We measured progress by putting a straightedge across the bulkhead and measured the amount of distortion with calipers to verify progress in getting the proper fit.
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Last edited by engineerofsorts : 01-15-2018 at 02:29 PM. Reason: added additional theorizing
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  #13  
Old 01-15-2018, 05:11 PM
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Dvalcik Dvalcik is offline
 
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Location: Ellsworth, ME
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tacco View Post
Thanks guys. Have looked at all of these suggestions plus some. No joy. Van's did confirm that the 1207B-25 rear stub spar is the standard issue part, I presume oversize to account for filing and fitting.

For those of you that had skin interference, particularly on the bottom wing skin, did it leave a mark on the fuselage when you were fitting the wing the first time? Mine is close, but not contacting when I stop pushing and get under the wing to look at it. Again, I pushed it pretty hard (audible "clunk) and you'd think it would leave a mark. I'm thinking I might shave off a 16th inch from the shin just to be certain. Will have to do that before I put the seal on anyway.

Thoughts?
If your alignment is very close and you are not hitting anywhere go get a tailpipe expander from Harbor Freight and slowly line-it up by expand it slowly. Slide the other pin in

https://www.harborfreight.com/medium...der-69548.html

No need to pound the pin in
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  #14  
Old 01-15-2018, 06:04 PM
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tomkk tomkk is offline
 
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Location: Port Orange, Fl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dvalcik View Post
If your alignment is very close and you are not hitting anywhere go get a tailpipe expander from Harbor Freight and slowly line-it up by expand it slowly. Slide the other pin in

https://www.harborfreight.com/medium...der-69548.html

No need to pound the pin in
I was just going to mention this when I saw this post. The expander works great. One other thing that threw me initially was that I wasn't raising the wing tip high enough to get good pin alignment. Once I figured out I needed to raise it more than I initially thought necessary, it pretty much fixed my problem ... although I still use a mallet to tap the pins in
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  #15  
Old 01-15-2018, 06:18 PM
JBPILOT JBPILOT is offline
 
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Location: Jesup, Iowa
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Default Another method - -

If you clamp a 2" screw clamp on each spar and use a tie-down or such to draw them together it works well and no pounding on pins.
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  #16  
Old 01-16-2018, 03:32 AM
Alex Edwards Alex Edwards is offline
 
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Location: Sydney, Australia
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I had a similar issue. Check where I have circled in the image in the post at the link below.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...11&postcount=2

When you put the first wing in can you put your finger in the hole that the pin goes into? How far out of alignment are you?
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  #17  
Old 01-16-2018, 04:51 AM
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magiccarpet magiccarpet is offline
 
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Location: Switzerland, Europe
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Default seat pan

Quote:
... to remove the sloping seat pan and then check the spar pin fit.
What part do you mean with the "sloping seat pan" ?
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  #18  
Old 01-16-2018, 11:53 AM
scsmith scsmith is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBPILOT View Post
If you clamp a 2" screw clamp on each spar and use a tie-down or such to draw them together it works well and no pounding on pins.
What is a screw clamp?
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  #19  
Old 01-16-2018, 12:00 PM
JBPILOT JBPILOT is offline
 
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Location: Jesup, Iowa
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Default Sorry - -

Should have said 'C' clamp. Likely better understood.
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  #20  
Old 01-16-2018, 03:03 PM
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madmaveric madmaveric is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Bournemouth, uk
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When I first fitted mine there was no way to get the pins in. Each wing wasn't in enough making the overlap in the center of the spars about 2-3mm offset (felt with both wings in place and ratchet straps used to snug them up).

It was obvious on mine that the spar stubs were slightly too long stopping the wing seating properly/fully.

To fix this I used the old method of 'painting' the ends with a marker pen (should have ideally used engineers blue but didn't have any).
I then pushed each wing from the tip and gently wiggled up and down so I could see the high point where the ink wore off.
This was then filed lightly and the whole process repeated until the holes lined up.
This was before any root seals were fitted.

It took quite a few hours doing this, I didn't want to risk removing too much material in one go so I basically spent two days doing shallow squats while pushing the wing in with my back

In the end I left it where the pins are still tight to get in (straps and rubber mallet required) and one pin is slightly harder to get in than the other.

As I don't plan on removing the wings other than inspections I decided I would leave it tight until I have the first inspection, to give them time to bed in if needed.
At the first inspection I may need to do a bit more adjusting to get an easier fit but I'd rather they are tight than lose

The hardest part is working out what is stopping them going in. Adding some marking to the stubs and simply pushing them in and wiggling up and down (not too much up down) will show if the stubs are butting up against the carriers or not (no shiny metal where the marker is rubbed off means they aren't touching so something else is fouling)

Just make sure you are 100% convinced that you have the correct point of fouling before getting out the files/snips and go slow with removing material.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex Edwards View Post
I had a similar issue. Check where I have circled in the image in the post at the link below.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...11&postcount=2

When you put the first wing in can you put your finger in the hole that the pin goes into? How far out of alignment are you?
Just a note that the later kits (mine anyway) had an extra bit of paper with it saying to remove the material you mentioned. It wasn't in the plans if I remember correctly but a sheet of A4 with the part itself. I guess a lot of people had issues with the fitting at that point.
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