Van's Air Force
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sliding canopy tips
- Thread starter JimWoo50
- Start date
FrankK90989
Well Known Member
Finished my 9A slider a little while back and have had no trouble. No frame cutting, no jumping, no welding, no blasting. Just a little tweaking. I think the 9 parts fit better than the other models.
I cut the plexi with a 4.5 angle grinder with a cutoff stone, trimmed with a belt sander (coarse belt) and finished with a palm sander.
One thing I did to get it sliding really smoth was to put a 1/16" delrin pad on the wheel mount on each side (between the track and wheel mount)this holds the wheel dead center. I also made the rear skirt of fiberglass.
Just take your time and plug away.
Frank Wiring
-4.7F. last night
I cut the plexi with a 4.5 angle grinder with a cutoff stone, trimmed with a belt sander (coarse belt) and finished with a palm sander.
One thing I did to get it sliding really smoth was to put a 1/16" delrin pad on the wheel mount on each side (between the track and wheel mount)this holds the wheel dead center. I also made the rear skirt of fiberglass.
Just take your time and plug away.
Frank Wiring
-4.7F. last night
petehowell
Well Known Member
Mine did not fit well
My 9A slider frame was a "bit" more challenging. I jumped - bent - unbent that #$%^& frame for about 2 weeks before finally listening to a -9A builder (Vern Below) on this board. A local -6A builder then brought a torch over and we cut and welded it. After the cut and weld it was fit in less than 2 hours. The parts appear to be quite variable from ship to ship.
If I were to do it again - I would futz with it for 2 hours - it it did not fit, I would cut it at the back bow to side frame interface and make it fit and reweld. Prime - paint and be done with it.
This was the most frustrating part of the build to date - but it can be done!
My 9A slider frame was a "bit" more challenging. I jumped - bent - unbent that #$%^& frame for about 2 weeks before finally listening to a -9A builder (Vern Below) on this board. A local -6A builder then brought a torch over and we cut and welded it. After the cut and weld it was fit in less than 2 hours. The parts appear to be quite variable from ship to ship.
If I were to do it again - I would futz with it for 2 hours - it it did not fit, I would cut it at the back bow to side frame interface and make it fit and reweld. Prime - paint and be done with it.
This was the most frustrating part of the build to date - but it can be done!
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vlittle
Well Known Member
Canopy frame
Pete's advise is good: Try to fit the frame. If it doesn't, cut and weld. It will save you a lot of pain and aggravation.
The aft skirt is best done with fiberglass. My technique was to lay up a layer of epoxy fiberglass on a piece of countertop laminate, waxed of course. Then, I cut this piece to the rough shape for the skirt (using the aluminum skirt template, but oversize to allow for taping it into place along the edges).
It's more flexible and easier to form than aluminum, and it can be cut and shaped/filled for a perfect fit. This piece is taped down all around, and several more layers of glass are layed up over it.
Once cured, then remove the whole shebang, trim to size and put back into place. Drill through the transparent layup into the (previously drilled) holes on the back bows and side skirts, countersink and rivet. Fill the rivets with micro and sand smooth. You can also mold a doghouse in place if you want.
A lot of work, but every day you make progress and the result is worth it.
Vern Little
FMI http://www.vx-aviation.com/rv-9a/photos/Fuselage/Canopy_photos.html
Pete's advise is good: Try to fit the frame. If it doesn't, cut and weld. It will save you a lot of pain and aggravation.
The aft skirt is best done with fiberglass. My technique was to lay up a layer of epoxy fiberglass on a piece of countertop laminate, waxed of course. Then, I cut this piece to the rough shape for the skirt (using the aluminum skirt template, but oversize to allow for taping it into place along the edges).
It's more flexible and easier to form than aluminum, and it can be cut and shaped/filled for a perfect fit. This piece is taped down all around, and several more layers of glass are layed up over it.
Once cured, then remove the whole shebang, trim to size and put back into place. Drill through the transparent layup into the (previously drilled) holes on the back bows and side skirts, countersink and rivet. Fill the rivets with micro and sand smooth. You can also mold a doghouse in place if you want.
A lot of work, but every day you make progress and the result is worth it.
Vern Little
FMI http://www.vx-aviation.com/rv-9a/photos/Fuselage/Canopy_photos.html
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tommylewis
Well Known Member
canopy tips
Frank - you posted "One thing I did to get it sliding really smoth was to put a 1/16" delrin pad on the wheel mount on each side (between the track and wheel mount)this holds the wheel dead center"
What is a 1/16" delrin pad??
Tom Lewis
RV7a canopy
Frank - you posted "One thing I did to get it sliding really smoth was to put a 1/16" delrin pad on the wheel mount on each side (between the track and wheel mount)this holds the wheel dead center"
What is a 1/16" delrin pad??
Tom Lewis
RV7a canopy
mark manda
Well Known Member
Don't loose any parts. I can't find my tracks; when I finally need them. 
"UPS ground plz"
Keep fresh rubber in your rollers, my O-rings only lasted two years. (I built it two yrs ago and shoved it up above.)
I also used some Tinnerman washers I thought looked cool but I can't hide them now.
"UPS ground plz"Keep fresh rubber in your rollers, my O-rings only lasted two years. (I built it two yrs ago and shoved it up above.)
I also used some Tinnerman washers I thought looked cool but I can't hide them now.
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FrankK90989
Well Known Member
tommylewis said:
Delrin
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
Delrin is the brand name for an acetal resin engineering plastic invented and sold by DuPont. Often marketed and used as a metal substitute, Delrin is a lightweight, low-friction, and wear-resistant plastic capable of operating in temperatures in excess of 90 degrees celsius (approx 200 degrees Fahrenheit). The Food and Drug Administration has approved Delrin for use in the food industry. Delrin was used by Mattel from 1968 to 1972 to produce the low-friction wheel bearings found on redline Hot Wheels.
It is also used extensively in paintball markers, where it is used to make bolts, rams and many other parts. Its low cost, adequate strength, light weight and self lubricating properties make it ideal for markers. Its competition in this area, Nylatron, while slightly lighter is more prone to swelling. A swelled part can make the mechanism impossible to operate and sometimes even damages the marker.
Other names for this compound include: polyoxymethylene (POM), acetal resin, polytrioxane and polyformaldehyde.
mark manda
Well Known Member
you might consider polishing your rails and the handle. only took a couple hrs.
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Mark Taper the lower surface latch arm upward
Mark if you leave the latch arm as shown in your photo some day it will be unlatched with the rear of the arm pointing forward and someone (not you of course) is going to shove the canopy forward to the closed position but it won't get there. The end of the latch handle will cut into the windshield assembly. The lower surface should be cut off so that it tapers up enough to clear when that awkward moment arrives and the latch handle is pointed forward instead of aft during closure.
Bob Axsom
Mark if you leave the latch arm as shown in your photo some day it will be unlatched with the rear of the arm pointing forward and someone (not you of course) is going to shove the canopy forward to the closed position but it won't get there. The end of the latch handle will cut into the windshield assembly. The lower surface should be cut off so that it tapers up enough to clear when that awkward moment arrives and the latch handle is pointed forward instead of aft during closure.
Bob Axsom
Rick6a
Well Known Member
Oh, the horror.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
Excellent tip Bob. Slider builders should pay heed. The fiberglass fairing on "Darla" exhibits small serrations or teeth mark damage immediately forward of the latch where it has caught the fairing from time to time as I slid the canopy closed with the latch cocked off center. Some minor fiberglass touchup work is in store....another example why I am soooo pleased I decided to forgo that expensive paint job until later. Bob, I suspect you too experienced this little aggravation?Bob Axsom said:
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
FrankK90989
Well Known Member
Polish then anodize
Look Here-
http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize.html
I have done this a few times and is Not hard at all.
And you do not need the dye and sealent he sells
Frank
glassing windscreen today
Look Here-
http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize.html
I have done this a few times and is Not hard at all.
And you do not need the dye and sealent he sells
Frank
glassing windscreen today
mark manda
Well Known Member
canopy latch
does this look like enough? about a 1/4" thanks. good luck frank, I'm right behind you except I'm dismantling the fuse just below the slider stop. Too short pop rivets and I forgot to relieve,radius the corner of the "can't recall what it's called." F-757
does this look like enough? about a 1/4" thanks. good luck frank, I'm right behind you except I'm dismantling the fuse just below the slider stop. Too short pop rivets and I forgot to relieve,radius the corner of the "can't recall what it's called." F-757
It's a cut to fit thing
You have to fit it to your hardware and structure. If you tapered up 1/4" that sounds good enough but mine looks more tapered than yours - just a caution. Also you may want to round off the leading edge of the latch handle to make it more streamlined both the shape and the sharp corners are drag concerns.
Bob Axsom
You have to fit it to your hardware and structure. If you tapered up 1/4" that sounds good enough but mine looks more tapered than yours - just a caution. Also you may want to round off the leading edge of the latch handle to make it more streamlined both the shape and the sharp corners are drag concerns.
Bob Axsom
mark manda
Well Known Member
I hope this means I'll be able to keep up with you now bob.
Eye Poppin good!
It looks perfect to me Mark. The workmanship in your plane continues to impress me greatly. As far as keeping up well maybe we'll meet on the race course from Dayton to Oshkosh some day and find out - I hope so but I'll try to make it as difficult for you as I can. I'm going to deal with a couple of drag items myself over the winter.
Bob Axsom
It looks perfect to me Mark. The workmanship in your plane continues to impress me greatly. As far as keeping up well maybe we'll meet on the race course from Dayton to Oshkosh some day and find out - I hope so but I'll try to make it as difficult for you as I can. I'm going to deal with a couple of drag items myself over the winter.
Bob Axsom
mark manda
Well Known Member
protect the canopy
Looking back; I wish I would have taken better (extremely)care of the canopy plexi.-- Scuffs and scratches. and hopefully not much overspray.
Here's a tip-- when you mask off the slider, up on top-- put some cotton cloth between your masking paper and plexi-- a guy who has built and painted at least 8 RV's stopped me and had me redo it.
What happens is, you flop your canopy over like a turtle for any number of reasons and the MASKING PAPER WILL SCRATCH THE CANOPY GLASS. (you assume the masking paper is protecting the canopy.) My picts kind of shows half my top unmasked and the white cotton rags.
Looking back; I wish I would have taken better (extremely)care of the canopy plexi.-- Scuffs and scratches. and hopefully not much overspray.
Here's a tip-- when you mask off the slider, up on top-- put some cotton cloth between your masking paper and plexi-- a guy who has built and painted at least 8 RV's stopped me and had me redo it.
What happens is, you flop your canopy over like a turtle for any number of reasons and the MASKING PAPER WILL SCRATCH THE CANOPY GLASS. (you assume the masking paper is protecting the canopy.) My picts kind of shows half my top unmasked and the white cotton rags.
