I was able to find a solution from the forum for getting access to the inner exhaust nuts on the left side of the engine. It seems that a flex socket is required. I have read that it should be a 1/4" drive. Is this mandatory because the 1/4" drive is smaller? I am having problems finding them locally but I have found 3/8" drive. Should I save my cash and keep looking or will the 3/8" drive work too? I don't want to buy twice. Thanks.
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flex socket for O-320 exhaust nuts
- Thread starter sblack
- Start date
az_gila
Well Known Member
I find the 1/4 flex drive socket with a long extension works well for those inner exhaust bolts -
Just to be clear, the flex is in the socket rather than a separate joint, making the overall length shorter -
Mine came from Sears.
ADDED
Just like Bob's video two posts on...
Just to be clear, the flex is in the socket rather than a separate joint, making the overall length shorter -
Mine came from Sears.
ADDED
Just like Bob's video two posts on...
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LettersFromFlyoverCountry
Well Known Member
rightrudder
Well Known Member
I found the same thing....1/4" sockets and wobble extensions of a couple different lengths.
my wobble adapters don't work - too long. So I will go with a socket. If the 3/8" doesn't work well, then I'll send my attorneys your way Mel
thanks guys
Be sure to use a swivel socket. A standard socket with a swivel adapter will NOT work. Notice I said it works on mine! YMMD!
+1
I bought a set of these years ago and can't live without them. I have no problem with these and 3/8" drive std socket on the exh nuts. Tight, but doable. I suppose there are various differences across the engines, so 1/4" might be safer.
Larry
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Snapon
Snapon makes a really nice and expensive 1/4 universal/wobble socket (6 point) that works well. Instead of paying big bucks for a set I was able to find a couple of sizes that work on the exhaust nuts and a couple of other hard to reach places on the engine using a large internet auction site. The nice thing about the Snapon sockets is that the walls are thin which allows them to fit into even tighter spaces. You can find singles at a reasonable price now and then.
Andy
Snapon makes a really nice and expensive 1/4 universal/wobble socket (6 point) that works well. Instead of paying big bucks for a set I was able to find a couple of sizes that work on the exhaust nuts and a couple of other hard to reach places on the engine using a large internet auction site. The nice thing about the Snapon sockets is that the walls are thin which allows them to fit into even tighter spaces. You can find singles at a reasonable price now and then.
Andy
BillL
Well Known Member
Get the 1/4" Drive
I bought some MAC 1/4" drive universal drive sockets in 1/2" and 9/16" from Ebay. On my M1B, a 3/8" drive universal socket (like the sears above) would not fit. I already had one. Your engine and/or exhaust may be different. Also, I have a SnapOn "S" wrench with a thin box end, and it works to get a feel of the torque better.
For you non-tool guys, a "wobble" is a rounded end to the make drive end of an extension.
A flex drive is like a tachometer cable and actually flexes. Not very useful for me, it doesn't tolerate much torque. Only seen one in 1/4" drive.
The socket above is a "universal drive socket"
I bought some MAC 1/4" drive universal drive sockets in 1/2" and 9/16" from Ebay. On my M1B, a 3/8" drive universal socket (like the sears above) would not fit. I already had one. Your engine and/or exhaust may be different. Also, I have a SnapOn "S" wrench with a thin box end, and it works to get a feel of the torque better.
For you non-tool guys, a "wobble" is a rounded end to the make drive end of an extension.
A flex drive is like a tachometer cable and actually flexes. Not very useful for me, it doesn't tolerate much torque. Only seen one in 1/4" drive.
The socket above is a "universal drive socket"
Socket
Change the nuts out and replace them with Stainless Steel all thread rod couplers . The 5/16 thread size uses a 7/16 wrench and the "nut" is over an inch long , you can cut them in half or use them full length as it covers the entire stud protecting them from corrosion.
Change the nuts out and replace them with Stainless Steel all thread rod couplers . The 5/16 thread size uses a 7/16 wrench and the "nut" is over an inch long , you can cut them in half or use them full length as it covers the entire stud protecting them from corrosion.
rzbill
Well Known Member
My hangarmate has a set of the Snap-On 1/4" universal drive sockets. The only thing I borrowed them for was exhaust nuts.
After getting the Harbor Freight wobble extension set 3 or 4 years ago, I have not touched the Snap-Ons.
The Snap-Ons are a beautiful tool but the $200 price at their booth at SnF was too much for my taste. Ten bucks to HF was preferable.
After getting the Harbor Freight wobble extension set 3 or 4 years ago, I have not touched the Snap-Ons.
The Snap-Ons are a beautiful tool but the $200 price at their booth at SnF was too much for my taste. Ten bucks to HF was preferable.
Exhaust nuts
The big issues are whether the pipes are perfectly straight where they attach to the flange. Also the inter cylinder baffles will interfere at some locations.
The Snap on sockets are slightly thinner wall than most. Every little bit helps. The wobble extension will not help if the baffle interferes with the socket.
The big issues are whether the pipes are perfectly straight where they attach to the flange. Also the inter cylinder baffles will interfere at some locations.
The Snap on sockets are slightly thinner wall than most. Every little bit helps. The wobble extension will not help if the baffle interferes with the socket.
snopercod
Well Known Member
Summit Racing 12 pt. Exhaust Nuts
The factory crossover exhaust on my tightly-cowled Lancair was so tight that it was impossible to reach the inner exhaust nut on the #2 cylinder with any tool known to mankind. I tried everything with no joy. The exhaust developed a crack on the #4 cylinder anyway, so I replaced the entire system with a not-so-tight Custom Aircraft Parts exhaust. (I know what you're thinking: "So if you couldn't get a tool in there, how did you get the old system off? Answer: Sawzall) To avoid this problem in the future, I replaced the standard Lycoming nuts with 12 pt. black oxide nuts from Summit Racing rated at 180,000 psi yield strength. They were much smaller and could be easily torqued with a 1/4" drive, 3/8" 12 pt. swivel head socket. I bought a Snap-On socket on eBay for $20.
The factory crossover exhaust on my tightly-cowled Lancair was so tight that it was impossible to reach the inner exhaust nut on the #2 cylinder with any tool known to mankind. I tried everything with no joy. The exhaust developed a crack on the #4 cylinder anyway, so I replaced the entire system with a not-so-tight Custom Aircraft Parts exhaust. (I know what you're thinking: "So if you couldn't get a tool in there, how did you get the old system off? Answer: Sawzall) To avoid this problem in the future, I replaced the standard Lycoming nuts with 12 pt. black oxide nuts from Summit Racing rated at 180,000 psi yield strength. They were much smaller and could be easily torqued with a 1/4" drive, 3/8" 12 pt. swivel head socket. I bought a Snap-On socket on eBay for $20.
BillL
Well Known Member
Black Oxide and high carbon steel will oxidize at exhaust flange temps, so monitor these during annuals and when they begin to look rusty replace. These exhaust nuts are problematic. Either a high temperature superalloy or silver coated, or standard. There are some Lycoming special nuts that some with the 540's but not the 360's. They are $25 ea from Lyc (Self Locking Nuts (STD-2043)), but a more common superalloy nut can be found for less than $5 ea. I am just using what came with the kit and will replace (like these beauties) when corroded. Stainless, normal stainless, will gall and stick, and don't have particularly good strength at higher temps, so be careful with them, use some good nickel anti-seize.
I asked the Lycoming guy that did the training at OSH - he said some OEMs liked the silver coated locking nuts, but can end up getting stuck to the studs (at overhaul) and resulted in more stud replacements. The others just put up with come coming loose and corroding, but left the stud intact. I chose the latter path. A tool that fits will come in handy for that check. No statistics found on loosening of the common nuts.
rightrudder
Well Known Member
Just for reference, the 1/4" wobble extensions worked on my IO-320-D1A with the double-crossover exhaust supplied in the Van's FWF kit. Sometimes, a very short extension and a medium-length one used together worked great.
snopercod
Well Known Member
Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for the tip. No oxidation noted in 18 Mos. /100 Hrs. but I'll monitor closely. Silver plated would be nice.
