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Alieron Rigging

jim miller

Well Known Member
I have clamped the alieron tip flush with the wing tip and connected the
two long control rods to the stick. With the stick held in center position
how do I procede to adjust? Adjusting the length of the stick to bellcrank
tubes versus the length of the bellcrank to alieron control tubes (how do
I adjust one in relation to the other)?

Thanks
Jim Miller
 
The answer is "yes" ... ;)

You can adjust either the long tubes or the short ones to get things where you need them, so long as you keep sufficient threads engaged in the rod ends.

I seem to remember that yours is an older -3? if so, then this might not apply, but I was able to use a jig that I had from my RV-8 to hold the bellcrank in the "rigging position". Once the bellcrank was fixed in this position, I adjusted the bellcrank to aileron pushrod to the the right length to have the aileron neutral. Then I adjusted the long pushrods to get the stick where I wanted it. Worked great for both airplanes.

HTH

Paul
 
Rigging

Hi Jim,
There should be a dimension shown on the wing plans determining the aileron
bellcrank nuetral position. I know this is present on the 3B plans and the 6
plans, but I have not personally examined the original 3 wing plans.

The most important consideration is that you can achieve the specified
aileron deflections (to your control stops) without the bellcranks going
"over center". You should also be careful that the aileron bellcrank positions
are exact mirror images in both wings when the stick is in the neutral position.
If they are not symmetrical, the aileron movement will not by equal for left and
right turns!

Good luck!

- Dan Benua
Tech Counselor
Repeat Offender
 
Last edited:
I'm doing this right now ...

... and am using exactly the procedure Paul noted. It's working splendidly. :D
 
Need more help. In looking at the plans I saw no specific reference to
rigging position of bellcrank but duplicated the position as it was drawn.
This seemed reasonable as the long rods needed very little adjustment
from the original rigging.

- when aileron deflected "up" the control rod comes very very close to
the to the outboard edge of hole thru back of wing for the rod to pass. So
close that I have to rotate to get the rod end rivets turned just right not
to rub. Is this normal?
- also is the 3/16" alum aileron stop only on the right side?
- what is the up and down deflection angles supposed to be?

Thanks
Jim Miller
 
For the bellcrank:

From the aft face of the W-330A main spar web to the center of the bellcrank hole that the W-314 aileron pushrod bolts to, is 2.5 inches for the neutral position.

It sure looks like the dimension ISN'T to the aft face of the W-330C web doubler, but that would be worth checking on the real plans. Kind of hard to read on the preview plans.

This is on drawing 10. My copy is from the preview plans, and has R1 but I can't read the date on it. The preview set is from 9/2010.

And for the control deflections:

Elevator, 30 up and 25 down max, min 25 up and 20 down.
Aileron, 32 up and 17 down max, min 25 up and 15 down.
Rudder, 35 each way max, min 30 each way.
Flaps, 40 - 45 shown as max, min not given
Trim tab, 25 up and 35 down max, min not given

This is from page 15-2 and appears to be generic for most of the RVs.

Hope this helps.

Dave
 
Dave
I have solved my aileron problems. My RV3 had no aileron stops like the
plans show using the 3/16 thick alum block. I was very concerned until I
talked with a couple of local RV7 builders. One of them installed a nylon
bushing about 1/2 inch wide and 5/8OD by 3/16 ID as a spacer for the
bolt that connects the control rod to the aileron. If the OD is sized correctly
it will contact the hinge bracket and act as a stop. Nylon to aluminum
is ideal for non wear and can easily be replaced.

The 3B bellcrank seems totally different from the older 3. I would still like to
confirm with someone who built a older 3 that the bell crank drawing shows
the bellcrank in the neutral position relative to the other parts. Other than
assuming this I saw no other reference to an alignment position for the
RV3/3A bellcrank.

Thanks
Jim Miller
 
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Bellcrank info

Jim, a member that goes by HFS is very knowledgeable about 3A bellcranks. You might PM him and initiate some dialogue. He has sent me high quality dimensions and calculations relative to 3A and 3B geometry differences.
 
Larry
Thanks. I sent him a PM. What part of indiana is Clinton in. I went toi HS
in Vevay, In and fly my colt up to Madison a lot to visit my mother and sister.

Jim Miller
 
3B Aileron rigging

My wings were built by someone else. After researching the very clever delrin disc for a precisely functioning stop, I discovered I don't need one! The bolt in the aileron that terminates the aileron pushrod strikes the aileron bracket at precisely 32* UP. Also, this yields 17* Down on the opposite aileron. This balance is accomplished with the small arm of the bellcranks not exactly 2 1/2" from the spar ( specified on print) but the bellcranks is not stroked over center either.

This sounds different than other's experience. Am I missing something ?
 
Dave

The 3B bellcrank seems totally different from the older 3. I would still like to
confirm with someone who built a older 3 that the bell crank drawing shows
the bellcrank in the neutral position relative to the other parts. Other than
assuming this I saw no other reference to an alignment position for the
RV3/3A bellcrank.

Thanks
Jim Miller

Per attached quote I am also wondering how to resolve the neutral position for the old style aileron bell crank. any help would be appreciated.
Larry
505-801-9512 if a phone call would make it easier to explain.
 
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