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  #1  
Old 08-21-2013, 09:43 PM
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Blain Blain is offline
 
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Default RV-8 Blain Stumpf #83362

So I'm starting with today and I'll catch up the last 3 months activities later.

QB wings arrived today.

Slipping them into my shop

Cracked open the box and enjoyed a wiff of clean Oregon air

On the bench and ready to proceed.
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  #2  
Old 11-10-2013, 07:34 PM
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Emp and wings nearly complete. Fuse is Mid December according to Vans. Taking the intermission to paint. Might make some of the handling process dificult later but it will get the major portion out of the way. And puting color to the work seems to build my enthusiasm.

Paint is Dupont Rival. Urathane single stage. My best efforts at keeping the booth clean still resulted in dust. Not to mention some orange peel. So the paint will get a cut and buff anyway.

Update by photos;




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  #3  
Old 12-12-2013, 07:31 PM
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Wings red. REAL red. Color sanded and buffed.



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  #4  
Old 12-12-2013, 08:03 PM
rockwoodrv9 rockwoodrv9 is offline
 
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Looks nice Blain. Those are really RED wings! Great color for an 8!
You building at Cameron Park?
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  #5  
Old 12-13-2013, 08:52 PM
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Blain Blain is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockwoodrv9 View Post
Looks nice Blain. Those are really RED wings! Great color for an 8!
You building at Cameron Park?
No, my home shop. Get more done here. Gave up hangar space when I sold the '22. Not sure where I'll end up. Cameron Park doesn't have much to offer.

Unless Mike S. has garage space.........
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  #6  
Old 12-14-2013, 06:13 PM
marktdonahue marktdonahue is offline
 
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Blaine,
I am getting close to the painting stage on my 9A. Your paint job looks great. Can you tell me what you are using for "color sanded" and cut and buff, to get it to the gloss you have?
Thanks,
Mark Donahue
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  #7  
Old 12-14-2013, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marktdonahue View Post
Blaine,
I am getting close to the painting stage on my 9A. Your paint job looks great. Can you tell me what you are using for "color sanded" and cut and buff, to get it to the gloss you have?
Thanks,
Mark Donahue
This thread;
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...light=cut+buff

I used the 3M products. Found a great buffer at Northern Tools. Their house brand "Clutch". Soft start, comes with bonnets, sale was about $89.

I didn't plan on color sanding but closer inspection I had some ugly orange peel.

If you haven't found this link I learned a few things there;
http://www.mnwing.org/N32SEPaint.pdf

My setup is almost a duplicate of what he did. I'll share a couple of lessons. Don't use plastic on the floor. Paint won't stick to it and peels off and becomes airborne contamination. Going to replace with painters paper dropcloth.

Turn fan off before entering or exiting paint booth. Carport/Booth has zippered doorway. When opening it sucks whatever contamination there is outside of the doorway back in. Let air equilize for a few seconds.

Tyvek shoot suite, Hobbyaire, case of latex gloves, clean slippers for the booth. Don't track **** in your work boots. This whole outfit had a fringe benefit; the wife couldn't even smell that I had been painting when I came in the house. And no chemical headaches indicating that you've killed off braincells.

Compression sprayer with water and a drop or 2 of dish soap. Spray the floor, and around the doorway on the outside.

Buy as many lights as you can afford, fit, have power for, etc. Even moveable spotlights will help. Since painting irregular parts means moving around it seems I always had a shadow in the spray pattern. You think you see the overlap and know where your going until you move to another angle then you see the dry spot or curtain, etc. I learned to paint things outdoors. This whole booth gig is a lesson.

We have to use low VOC paint which I also hadn't used before. This sprays different then the old Urathanes. Still getting the hang of it.

I oriented all parts horizontal to minimize curtains (runs).

Buffed the wingtips today and realized I got thrifty with the paint on the edges. Next time (!?) I'll hose it on those areas. It requires a light touch when sanding around the tip edges. Even with 1500 on the DA it will cut fast if only in contact with 1/8" sharp tip edge.

And a tidbit I learned from a car painter; I asked him how I could smooth out my strokes. "Simple-a shot or 2 of Jack Daniels before you start"

Mark, I didn't mean to ramble on.
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  #8  
Old 12-15-2013, 07:16 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Good Summary Blain, many details needed for doing this. I learned the wet-the-floor trick from a painter who would shoot enamel on cars in the 70's. This was before clean booths. He would just wet the floor with a hose, not spray cause some little drops float around. Perfect paint, no floating defects.

I will add to your caution about the plastic shedding accumulated paint. I built a booth with 2X2 frames and sheet plastic, the top was flat and after painting a while in a truck restoration project, flecks began to come off. I see a lot of these booths built and early claims to perfection, but with use they WILL SHED DEBRIS. If anyone has a solution besides just replacement, please let me know, I am dragging my feet about building one again for that reason.

Suction vs blowing. Suction keeps the paint overspray and fumes in the booth, but sucks in dust around all the cracks. Slight pressure or neutral will prevent that but allows paint fume and overspray leaks outside the booth. This means pulling and pushing air for the booth to address both issues. When the walls move stuff falls off.

Funny, I bought the Sam James paint video disk, and it looks like he had the grand idea of the plastic shed booth but ever implemented it. He clearly did not anticipate what we have just discussed. Box fans are not enough air flow to keep the booth clear, unless you have a bunch of them (6?). Anyway, don't buy that disk for information, but maybe for comedic value.
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  #9  
Old 12-15-2013, 10:12 AM
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Mike S Mike S is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blain View Post


Unless Mike S. has garage space.........
I could probably work that out, but hangar space is going to be a problem.

Talk to me after you get the phase 1 flown off, I may be able to help. No phase 1 allowed at Cameron Park.
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  #10  
Old 12-15-2013, 03:55 PM
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Blain Blain is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike S View Post
I could probably work that out, but hangar space is going to be a problem.

Talk to me after you get the phase 1 flown off, I may be able to help. No phase 1 allowed at Cameron Park.
Tongue was firmly planted. But I appreciate the thought. Probably depend on who my test pilot is.....um...starts with Mike....
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