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Do I need to match drill these 4 holes on HS-00001 doubler on the front spar?

CubedRoot

CubedRoot

Well Known Member
Hey guys,
I am about to rivet up the tail section soon, and I had a question about the HS-00001 doubler plates that go on the back of the HS-702 Horizontal stabilzer spar in the empennage.

See this photo:
KnG0fNvl.jpg


I have the 4 holes that I am not sure about circled with black sharpie in that photo. These are the holes that existed on the plate when it came in the kit, but I wanted to be sure if I need to back drill them to the front spar, since it looks like they will be close to the other holes. These are the only 4 holes that I do not have matched drilled to the other parts of this section.

If I need to drill them, I am guessing its a #30 and using the same size rivets as their neighbors?
 
I'm really stretching my memory, but if I remember correctly NONE of the holes are supposed to line up.

I think the gap between the doublers its 3 3/4 inches. I missed that note in the plan and had to re order the doublers and the angle irons. Just make sure you have the proper gap between them and that should answer your question.
 
Lynn, there is a good youtube video of the SB being performed on an existing HS. I will see if I have it (within my attention span). It does address the holes and mentions to check several times to ensure the all holes are staggered.

The other thing is to be sure it in not so far inboard as to interfere with the VS spar connector plate overlap.

Nicely done video too!


Ahh - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgE0T8EMaZk
 
screen shot from the video...

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BTW: is there a reason to have shop heads on one side vs the other? or just whatever is easier to get the rivet gun in?
 
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Related question?

While we are on this topic. Is this a mistake in the plans? it says #40 drill. but it clearly says to use AN470D4 rivets on these spots. that would be a #30 drill?

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RV7ForMe said:
While we are on this topic. Is this a mistake in the plans? it says #40 drill. but it clearly says to use AN470D4 rivets on these spots. that would be a #30 drill?

download


download
Click to expand...

It's probably just to make sure that the first hole is drilled with a #40.
The drawings should always be right and the holes must be opened to #30 afterwards.
 
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Rivet orientation

RV7ForMe said:
BTW: is there a reason to have shop heads on one side vs the other? or just whatever is easier to get the rivet gun in?
Click to expand...

Yes. Factory head always on the thinner material side. It's not written in stone. There are places where it can't be done but always try.
 
lShadowl said:
It's probably just to make sure that the first hole is drilled with a #40.
The drawings should always be right and the holes must be opened to #30 afterwards.
Click to expand...

You will learn to check the drawings. Assume they are right until you understand them well enough to KNOW they are wrong. Also, never drill a match hole until you know where it is coming out on ALL the pieces penetrated!

Frequently, I have found that the initial drill with #40 will be to advantage because of minor drift and fit. This allows a #30 for a final that is perfect on ALL the holes. This is just a good practice to follow throughout the build. You will be making many small pieces for doublers, brackets as you reach finish stage, so now is a good time to solidify this practice.
 
Also, I just learned the hard way: Don't imagine instructions that aren't there. Van's instructions has you mark and drill the forward inboard rib (HS-00006) but not the aft one (HS-00005). I got carried away and did them both, finding out later that you're supposed to drill through the spar into the aft rib once the parts are fit in place:

IMG_0778-L.jpg


Doh!

If this is indeed enlarged to #30 later, I might be able to live with this, but I'm not going to chance it, want to do it right. Now waiting for Mr. FedEx bringing my new aft ribs...
 
No worries

Draker said:
Also, I just learned the hard way: Don't imagine instructions that aren't there.
Click to expand...

Don't sweat it. I did a mistake in this area as well. The plans here leave room for some newbeeee mistakes. Mine is apparently "ok" as long as Edge distance checks out to be 2xD (asked VANS) I haven't decided if I will replace or live with imperfection. Currently still fighting my "own little prime war" with European suppliers... Non of them seem to want to make money.
 
lShadowl said:
It's probably just to make sure that the first hole is drilled with a #40.
The drawings should always be right and the holes must be opened to #30 afterwards.
Click to expand...

To be extra sure, I asked Van's about those inboard rib flange holes and they said it was probably a typo in the instructions and those holes should be #30.
 
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