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Oil cooler fittings on engine?

R

rightrudder

Well Known Member
Please confirm is the following is correct on my IO-320 D1A. I think I have it right, but it never hurts to confirm!!

Top photo: circular boss with hex plug, to the left of the red caps, is for top oil cooler line.

Top red cap is breather, lower is mechanical tach drive.

Bottom photo: circular boss with hex plug beneath oil filter is for bottom oil cooler line.

More questions:

1) Do the plan suggestions for fittings here (45 degrees top, straight out for bottom) work well? Oil cooler will be in standard spot, right rear corner.

2) Does anyone sell a cap for the tach drive, or is the red plastic cap sufficient?

Thanks!



 
Fittings

That all looks correct. Spruce sells a cover for the tach drive. 45 would be an alternate for the lower fitting if it allows a better hose routing. Make sure to use titeseal or fuellube on the pipe threads. Install the oil pressure fitting/restrictor before you mount the engine unless you have the second port facing aft. Good idea to check the torque on all the allen head pipe plugs.
 
Thank you for the great info, guys!! Krw, I will check on the sensor...I thought that copper ring on top of the sensor was an integral part, but it could be that it is indeed the gasket, and it simply got stuck there.
 
Kurt, thanks for your sharp eyes. The top of the sender was a little gooey, and the gasket had stuck there. Reinstalled the right way now. :)
 
Sorry to be nit picking on you, but the torque seal on your mag clamps is usually put between the nut and the housing rather than the nut and the threads. It is not intended to be a thread locker, just a visual aid to tell you if the bolt is backing off. I am glad you posted this because I have to hook up my oil cooler soon and I have the same engine. Thanks
 
sblack said:
Sorry to be nit picking on you, but the torque seal on your mag clamps is usually put between the nut and the housing rather than the nut and the threads. It is not intended to be a thread locker, just a visual aid to tell you if the bolt is backing off. I am glad you posted this because I have to hook up my oil cooler soon and I have the same engine. Thanks
Click to expand...

Yeah, but if the nut doesn't move relative to the threads, I doubt the clamp or mag is going to move, provided it's torqued down correctly. It came from Lycoming this way. That said, I guess it couldn't hurt to put an extra dab where you suggest.

Good luck with your engine! I'm glad I put the fittings on before hanging the engine...it's possible to do it afterward, but access is so much easier beforehand. Those hex plugs were in there tight. I had to put some Vise Grips on the end of an Allen wrench to break them loose.
 
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You are close Doug

Love that Lycoming grey! You are keeping the Slicks Doug? Good move!
 
Good idea to check the timing on those mags, I recall hearing of some mag timing issues from Lyc and it only takes a minute to check once the engine is installed and the prop is on.

PS: I don't give a hoot about torque seal (unless I watched it torqued and sealed personally), if it's important, then check it with a wrench.

Use steel oil fittings is the accessory case to avoid galling the threads.
 
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jrs14855 said:
That all looks correct. Spruce sells a cover for the tach drive. 45 would be an alternate for the lower fitting if it allows a better hose routing. Make sure to use titeseal or fuellube on the pipe threads. Install the oil pressure fitting/restrictor before you mount the engine unless you have the second port facing aft. Good idea to check the torque on all the allen head pipe plugs.
Click to expand...

Titeseal is good, FueLube is NOT for pipe threads!
 
rightrudder said:
Yeah, but if the nut doesn't move relative to the threads, I doubt the clamp or mag is going to move, provided it's torqued down correctly. It came from Lycoming this way. That said, I guess it couldn't hurt to put an extra dab where you suggest..
Click to expand...

No problem with it moving, its just that it gums up the threads. It's fine as is.
 
Yes Vlad, keeping the Slick mags...retaining the purity of the straight-from-Lycoming build. :)

Walt, I've got a sheet of test run info from Lycoming, so it's been run and checked at the factory before pickling, but yes, I will check the timing before the first start.

I've been using Loctite 567 for NPT fittings. Nasty, toxic stuff (you can feel your skin burn and itch just seconds after contact) but it seems to seal very well.

Hoist rented for tomorrow for the hallowed engine mounting ceremony. Wish me luck!! :D:D
 
To answer the OP's question:

Lycoming%2Baccessory%2Bcase%2Bfittings.jpg
 
Thanks, Bruce. A bit less expensive than the ACS part.

Bill, that's the exact sort of drawing that should be included with the engine. Thanks for posting it.
 
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Walt said:
PS: I don't give a hoot about torque seal (unless I watched it torqued and sealed personally), if it's important, then check it with a wrench.

Use steel oil fittings is the accessory case to avoid galling the threads.
Click to expand...

Walt, and others,

My engine came with two 45? fittings for the oil cooler hoses. Both of them appear to be the blue AN aluminum fittings. One of them is clocked the wrong direction and my oil cooler hose won't fit unless I order a custom-made longer one. I'd like to replace them with steel fittings but I'm worried about getting them off without galling the accessory case. I put a wrench on one of them and pulled pretty hard, and then I stopped because of my concern.

Any suggestions for taking these off in the safest manner? The engine hasn't been run since overhauling, but it's been sitting for a long time.

Thanks for any suggestions. Much appreciated!
 
Just to update, Walt kindly replied to a PM and suggested using lots of heat. So I got out my heat gun and put a lot of heat on the fitting before putting a wrench on it and SLOWLY pulling hard until it finally broke loose. I was able to get both of them off with no damage or trouble. Thanks, Walt!
 
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