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  #1  
Old 03-28-2010, 09:18 AM
Airhead Airhead is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oviedo, Florida
Posts: 72
Default Small elevator pushrod installation

Question about 7A QB. I am probably missing an important instruction (surely) somewhere. I made all the pushrods as called for on Sht 38 of the plans. When I went to install the elevator bellcrank and pushrods, I find that the small F-789 pushrod cannot be inserted into position from either end without interference from the bulkheads. It appears to be aout an inch too long to insert from the rear, but before I drill out the rivets for the rod end bearing on one (or both) ends I thought I would ask where the plans said to assemble the rod ends with the rod in its position in the fuselage, or is there some other majic to this?
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  #2  
Old 03-28-2010, 09:38 AM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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Take the bearings off and stick one threaded end thru a wiring hole and it will go in. It is very close but it will go. Not sure it is possible with the bearings on....
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  #3  
Old 03-28-2010, 10:08 AM
Airhead Airhead is offline
 
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Thanks for the reply. I have taken the rod ends off, but when I slip the pushrod through the 706 bulkhead (at the bellcrank) and slide it forward until it hits the bottom of the 705 bulkhead, it still sits on the top of the 707 bulkhead (to the rear of the bellcrank) and therefore can't be raised into the wiring hole at the top of the 705 (without bending something). After trying it again I am convinced I need to remove the threaded part of the rod bearing from the tube (i.e. drill out the rivets).
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  #4  
Old 03-28-2010, 10:12 AM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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I can't remember the exact way it can be done... I know it was very tight. If it is built per plans it will go....I do remember having to remove the flap motor box braces.
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Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
Check out my RV-10 builder's BLOG
RV-10, #41942, N?????, Working on Emp/Tail Cone
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
Like EAA Chapter 1494 on Facebook
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  #5  
Old 03-28-2010, 10:22 AM
rwhittier rwhittier is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 256
Default Relieve the upper side of the hole in the 706 BH

Been there, done that. Relieve just enough material from the upper side of the 706 hole to let it slide in (I just kind of radiused mine). Not sure where I picked that up, it was either from builders or Vans. Either way, I have talked to several now who have done that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead View Post
Thanks for the reply. I have taken the rod ends off, but when I slip the pushrod through the 706 bulkhead (at the bellcrank) and slide it forward until it hits the bottom of the 705 bulkhead, it still sits on the top of the 707 bulkhead (to the rear of the bellcrank) and therefore can't be raised into the wiring hole at the top of the 705 (without bending something). After trying it again I am convinced I need to remove the threaded part of the rod bearing from the tube (i.e. drill out the rivets).
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  #6  
Old 03-28-2010, 10:23 AM
Rupester Rupester is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Mahomet, Illinois
Posts: 2,196
Default Do not remove the riveted end ...

... like others said, you must remove the threaded rod end (from one end at least) and it will go in from the aft end forward. I can't recall precisely how ... or thru which orifice it goes, but it eventually it went into the tunnel. Most of us did a lot of headscratching about that ... just like you are.
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  #7  
Old 03-28-2010, 10:41 AM
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Mel Mel is offline
 
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These responses are correct. Do NOT drill out the rivets. It will be very difficult to re-rivet in place.
It will go in with the threaded ends riveted on!
Literally thousands have been done.
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Last edited by Mel : 03-28-2010 at 10:43 AM.
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  #8  
Old 03-28-2010, 10:50 AM
Airhead Airhead is offline
 
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Location: Oviedo, Florida
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Thanks for the help. I will try relieving the 706 hole on top a bit as Roger suggested. It is very close and a little bit might work. Am glad to get these suggestions before drilling out the rivets. Everything starts out easy....thats always just before it gets difficult.
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RV-7A QB slider - IO 360 M1B Hartzell C/S prop w/Dual 10" Dynon Skyviews - Classic Aero interior. 50 hrs TT .
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  #9  
Old 03-28-2010, 10:58 AM
Rupester Rupester is offline
 
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Location: Mahomet, Illinois
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Default Side Comment ...

I have tons of respect and admiration for the Vans organization, but this is one of several dozens items where one sentence in the instructions could save hundreds of people (thousands?) a LOT of time. I've found at least 20 instances where that's the case. Just a few words added to a Word document could make all the difference.
OK, I'm done baying at the moon now.
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S. James cowl/plenum
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  #10  
Old 03-28-2010, 01:09 PM
Airhead Airhead is offline
 
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Location: Oviedo, Florida
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Default

After looking at and pondering the situation for a spell, I see that enlarging the 706 hole at the top is not really a great option. Since the forward end of the rod (just the threaded tip, rod end removed of course) must be raised at the 705 hole about 1-1/2 inches to enter, and the pivot point is the 706 hole which is approx. midway between the 705 and 707 bulkheads (the rear of the rod threaded tip is resting on the 707), the top of the 706 hole would need enlarging about half of that, or 3/4 inch. That would take me into the upper line of rivets. Before I do that I would rather try to get the rivets out and remove one end or remake the entire pushrod. It certainly seems that a note on Sht 38 to wait and rivet one end after the rod is placed in the tunnel would have been greatly appreciated by many.
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