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Hot Start Solutions

ILikePike

Well Known Member
I have an RV-8 with a YIO-360-M1B 200hrs TT equipped with Slick 4373 (impulse) on left and 4370 on right. It has been very challenging to hot start this summer. I recently purchased a Slick Start module to install on the left (impulse) mag.

I have a Dynon SV-EMS-220 picking up the tach signal from the key switch left and right p-leads through 30Kohm resistors. The Slick Start manual has a warning statement "CAUTION: ELECTRONIC TACHOMETERS UTILIZING A MAGNETO PICKUP ARE NOT COMPATIBLE WITH SlickSTART"'. THE TACHOMETER SENSOR SHOULD BE RELOCATED TO THE RIGHT HAND MAGNETO." Is the Slick Start going to cause a issue with the Dynon SV-EMS-220 or will the 30Kohm resistors protect the Dynon from the boost?

Is anyone running dual impulse mags to aid in hot starts? My Bonanza (IO-520) has dual impulse mags Slick 6310s. It requires good hot start technique but will hot start most of the time on the first try. If not on the first try, the mixture/throttle dance will work. Ironically, I checked today and discovered that the right mag has been grounding (for the last 10 years) when the key switch is engaged. I guess the key switch jumper was never removed when the engine was replaced in 2008. It was originally equipped with a shower of sparks. Can someone confirm that when running dual impulse mags the switch jumper should be removed so that both impulse mags will operate during the start.
 
Mag problem VS. hot fuel/vapor lock

So are you sure you?re having a mag problem and not a hot fuel/vapor lock problem?

Mark
 
Slick start IO 540

I'm running a slick start on my NON impulse coupled left mag. My tach pick up is on my right mag. I have the right P lead run through a relay that closes/grounds when the start button is activated. Worked perfectly so far but I'm still in testing stages so haven't dealt with hot starts yet. I believe this is a very common setup.
 
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So, is anyone using a Champion Slickstart and Dynon tach pickup on the same P-lead?

I have this setup. But I have both p-leads wired into the Dynon so when the one is grounded during start Dynon automatically picks up the other. I have not had any issues with the Dynon but I increased to 100 kOhm because on the IO-540 the tach reading was too jumpy during takeoff.
 
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Hot Starts in the Desert

FWIW - may not apply 100% but it always works for me at IYK where the temp is over 100 degrees every summer afternoon. Use this after restarting after an engine shutdown; fist start of the day unaffected by temps.

RV-8A IO-360; I mag, 1 Lightspeed

Do not prime
Ignitions - Both on
Prop - Full forward
Throttle - full open
Mixture - Idle Cut Off

Starter - engaged
Mixture - Forward as soon as engine catches
Throttle - idle
Electric Boost - On if fuel pressure drops, then off
 
Thanks for all the advice. In working the hot start issue I have replaced all plugs after finding most with high resistance and checked timing on both mags. I already use the oil door trick when doing a quick turn. I think the tightly cowled engine is just temperamental on hot days. Planning to install SlickStart this weekend and will report results.
 
OK.

We are set-up much the same way as you are. An old trick we learned while running IO-470's in south TEXAS, that is not in the books that we have found works with the IO-360 with Mags, after a quick turn around. Open the oil door while you fuel, wash hands and take a nature break after fueling, close oil door, set throttle to just above idle so the engine will stay running at 900-1200 RPM's once it catches, mixture full rich, take the key in one hand and the boost pump switch in the other hand, start turning and then just a half second later flip the bust pump on. Once the engine catches flip the bust pump off and chase the throttle to keep the engine running. You will have to let the engine slowly clear the vaper out of the spider lines and settle the engine idle down to smooth again, witch may take a half minute or so. Just something we found while in the hot sun a few times to get us going again.
Hope it helps. Yours, R.E.A. III #80888
 
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IN a Mooney I used own (had angle valve IO-360, tight cowl, cooling not dissimilar from an RV) I used this technique for hot starts.

1) Throttle Full open
2) Mixture lean to cutoff
3)couple shots of prime

Engage starter.

When it fires push mixture in while pulling throttle out at the same time.

Obviously this requires some hand dancing but worked consistently.


YMMV
 
The hot start procedure that Paul reccommends seems to work on Lyc powered Mooneys, and Pipers from what I?ve read on hot start forums. A minor change to that procedure that also helps is to turn on the boost pump for 2 or 3 seconds with the mixture in idle cutoff and throttle full open, just before engaging the starter. This pressurizes the system up to the servo, but no fuel flows up to the spider with the mixture in ico on a Lycoming. Not so with a Conti engine with a Bendix fuel injection, but with our Lycomings there?s enough fuel vapor in the lines on a hot engine to get it started. Then the pressurized fuel from the servo and the engine driven pump take over. Remember you have to move the throttle back to a high idle position as it starts, and then slowly move the mixture out of ico.
This should work until the engine cools enough to where there isn?t enough fuel rich vapor in the spider and upper lines to support the start - in which case you?ll need to prime before start (cold start).
 
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