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Van's Yaw Servo Mount

When installing the YD mount and the pitch trim bracket, they use the same aft holes on the surface of the bell-crank bracket. Are shimms or washers used under the pitch trim bracket?

Yes, the Garmin kit comes with a shim to raise up the pitch bracket.
 
I spoke with someone a while back. One of the parts vendors who sells the hoop for the GSA28.

He said the -14 YD bracket works but requires slight modification, then the hoop is needed along with another part not included with the -14 kit. His thought was in the someone might save 100-200 bucks and seriously questioned the value in using parts not specifically designed for the YD setup in the -10.

I'll be buying the -10 parts. It's expensive, but worth it considering my cargo.
 
Just wanted to highlight how I went about this. I have a new -10 kit and wanted to get this yaw damper mount installed during the tailcone process instead of doing a retrofit later.

As others have noted here, the "14 G3X YAW SERVO INSTALL KIT" installs just fine in the 10, and is substantially cheaper than the garmin equivalent. You will also need the garmin 115-01854-11 kit, which as of this writing SteinAir still has as a purchaseable part.

The main issue with installation of Van's bracket vs Garmin is the alignment of holes on the bulkhead. It's still an easily solved issue, however, one thing I didn't like is that all of the pieces of the battery box/elevator bellcrank/etc are removable with screws, but the yaw servo installation bracket is done with rivets meaning it will be permanently sticking up in the way when you try to enter the tailcone in the future. I decided now was the opportunity to try and also make it so you can remove the mount in the future should it be necessary.

The bracket looks like this:

6H284Hz.png


The way it is intended to be installed is that the two smaller holes get riveted to the bulkhead, and the center hole is large enough to slip over the head of the existing rivet already in the bulkhead. Instead of that, I riveted a doubler plate to each of the feet using the existing rivet holes with the flush head on the fwd side that lays up against the bulkhead. When mounted it looked like this:

DQA2ajP.jpg


Now with this in place, drilling through the center hole in the bulkhead through the existing hole in the bracket and making a new hole in the doubler, we now have a place where a screw can go. This means you now install a nutplate on the bulkhead with the flush head on the rear side where the bracket sits.

fs7aOY4.jpg


zpwLRBR.jpg


Now when you go to install the bracket, it's completely installed with screws and can be removed later if needed.

Thank you Caleb, I stole some ideas from your post and did something very similar. It worked out beautifully!
 
I didn't notice in the G3X Install Manual:

What would that bridle cable tension be set for?

Or is this "just a grip it and rip it" type of tension?
 
Thank you, sir.

Here's the dimensions of the Garmin unit

wp1QNAm.png


HdO6mto.jpg

An afternoon pleasantly spent with drill press and hand tools -- good to go!





When I was done hacksawing the steel bar stock to shape, the hacksaw blade became the bow ;-)
 
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