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  #1  
Old 11-13-2017, 06:51 AM
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rvanstory rvanstory is offline
 
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Default Landing Gear Tube Install

I am on page 28-17 Step 1 for RV10 fuse floor. In this step it instructs to temporarily install landing gear tube structure in order to match drill holes for permanent installation.

Everything seems to fit nice and snug, EXCEPT on the lower outside edge. It seems to have a small gap between it and the underlying structure behind it. Lower inside edge is snug as well as top edge along the main spars. This structure is so rigid, it's not going to simply "pull up" by tightening the bolts more. Plus I would have a fear of stripping out the nut if I did. That'd be a HUGE pain to get out if that were to happen.

Questions:
1. Anyone else have this problem, and how'd you solve it?
2. Do I shim behind it?
3. Will the other 3 contact points be enough to hold it under load?


Structure in question. Gap is circled in red.



Closer view of gap in question.

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  #2  
Old 11-13-2017, 07:20 AM
A-Ron A-Ron is offline
 
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First, I would pull the gear mount out and really check for anything between the spar and the mount....a stray rivet, some welding slag on the mount itself or whatever. I'm willing to bet that if you install most, if not all of the hardware it will pull into position. I remember this being a real pain and what really helped was to make a couple of alignment pins by taking an AN3 bolt over to the Scotchbrite wheel and removing all of the threads to make a nice smooth tapered pin. This will really help. Get all of those bolts in and snug them up evenly and it should pull right into position. Remember though, check behind it first for any foreign objects. I hope this helps some. I'm sure more experienced folk will chime in.
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Last edited by A-Ron : 11-13-2017 at 10:53 AM. Reason: spelling
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  #3  
Old 11-13-2017, 02:51 PM
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Sorry, I can't seem to view your pictures. Are you talking about the part where the WD-1021P shim is supposed to be installed?
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  #4  
Old 11-13-2017, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flion View Post
Sorry, I can't seem to view your pictures. Are you talking about the part where the WD-1021P shim is supposed to be installed?
No. That parts fine. I'm talking about the lower outside part at the corner of it, but the area that has the holes in it for the shop head of the rivets in the part it should sit flush against.

Not sure why my pics aren't showing up? I see them on my end thru the forum.

Here's a link to those same pics. See if this works.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/27...=w1035-h776-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vj...E=w582-h776-no
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  #5  
Old 11-13-2017, 05:30 PM
TFeeney TFeeney is offline
 
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I know this isn't the answer you're going to want but here goes:
1) check previous pictures you may have when you drilled the spar. See if it was there before.
2) confirm your build in that area is per plans.
3) check for weld slag as mentioned. If nothing is obvious, you might try some chalk on one surface to check the contact patterns as you install it. You should see a nicely distributed contact area.
4) install the remaining bolts. These are tough under the best of circumstances so I hesitate to tell you to do it and then have a problem. The assembly will pull together snug. I'd suggest using a shortened bolt with threads ground down to use as a drift pin. It will help align things. Otherwise, I spent a solid day cussing at that assembly.

Good luck.
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  #6  
Old 11-14-2017, 05:11 AM
leok leok is offline
 
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If I recall correctly, I had a similar fit when first installed. With the bolts installed, everything pulled in tight.

I installed all of the bolts snug, and then tightened them all, a little at a time, pulling evenly on the structure.
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  #7  
Old 11-14-2017, 10:04 AM
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Yup, I had to use a slight encouragement tool (small hammer) to tap a few bolts in but once all the hardware was in, it lined up nicely.
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  #8  
Old 11-14-2017, 12:21 PM
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flion flion is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvanstory View Post
No. That parts fine. I'm talking about the lower outside part at the corner of it, but the area that has the holes in it for the shop head of the rivets in the part it should sit flush against.

Not sure why my pics aren't showing up? I see them on my end thru the forum.

Here's a link to those same pics. See if this works.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/27...=w1035-h776-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vj...E=w582-h776-no
Those links worked. As others have said, be sure there is nothing interfering on that back surface. I seem to recall that it took a bit of fitting around some of the relief holes because they didn't match up exactly with the AN470 rivets I had already set back in section 25. Until the bolts were tightened (not torqued) all around it didn't want to set in perfectly.
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  #9  
Old 11-18-2017, 09:37 AM
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rvanstory rvanstory is offline
 
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Thought I'd follow up with what I found in case a future building runs into this and has a question. Pulled the support structure out (which, BTW is a pain to get these bolts back out with so little room) and found my "perceived" problem.

The part of the structure that looks like it has a gap is not flush to start with. At the actual attach points (bolt holes) it does in fact pull up flush. It's only the middle part of the structure that is bowed giving me the illusion that it may not be pulling up properly.

Here's a pic of the "bow" using a straight edge as my reference point.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vJ...o=w582-h776-no




Here's the straight edge at the attach point. It does pull up fine.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Iq...4=w582-h776-no



So, the "gap" that was giving me concern, will always be there. But at the actual attach points top and bottom, it's pulling up just fine.

Thanks for all the advice. I always appreciate others insights.
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