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Old 11-01-2017, 08:34 PM
vernon smith's Avatar
vernon smith vernon smith is offline
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Naples FL
Posts: 145

Here are GregMac's pictures and write up of his air box.

Hi Vern, Yes that's quite OK for you to post any or all of these pics, I've included the basic method I used. These are pics of my RV6 &10 air intake snorkels. Bit of work but worth it I think, what I used was PVC pipe 2 1/4" ID for the 6 & 2 3/4" ID for the RV10. Open out the front of the fab box to take the PVC and cut out top and bottom of the existing opening in the bottom cowl (more out of the bottom is best) to allow the PVC to go through. With fab box and bottom cowl fitted push PVC pipe in to get the angle of the dangle right, apply epoxy flox mix in a couple of spots top and bottom only to secure the pipe to cowl, only have the pipe just in the fab box enough to get the angle right because you need to be able to remove the cowl to do the rest of the work. When cured carefully remove the cowl, fill in around pipe to cowl meeting with plasticine, trim the pipe to your preferred length then glass over PVC pipe to fit the existing bottom cowl (cling wrap, release agent applied of course to the cowl ! ) TIP......leave glass about an inch longer than the outside end of the pipe, fold wet glass into pipe and then push in any weighted curved shape, until cured. When cured shape can be removed and internal excess removed, gives a nice curve/finish to the end of the snorkel. After cured, get in with a hacksaw blade and cut through those couple of epoxy/flox spots that were to hold the pipe at the right angle. Now the snorkel can be removed from the cowl and final shaped, cut the PVC pipe off to allow about 2inches on the inside, previously sized scat Hose can then be fitted over the pipe and secured with whatever you like, I just used normal silicone. Fit/glass into the fab a suitable sized bit of PVC to let the scat slide fit in, on the ten I went to the trouble of fitting an end to the scat, but on the six I just used the scat. Make sure you have enough scat Hose that it must be compressed when it all goes together, that allows the scat to flex between the fab and cowl, scat, uncompressed takes a lot of pressure to make it give sideways. When I undo the screws the snorkel springs out about an inch. Nut plates riveted to small scrap ally bent to fit inside cowl and floxed in with the screws tight and in place is how I secured the unit........I built up the cowl to fit the snorkel but you could just feather it down to save work. Advantages for all this, bit less drag cause of better shape, easier removal and fitting of bottom cowl, takes tension vibration off fab box, but takes time ! Hope that's of interest to you, let me know if you need any more info. Cheers Greg. ........................... the extra opening on the bottom of my cowl is unrelated, it's the air intake for my oil cooler which as you can see is not in the standard position.

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