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  #1  
Old 10-15-2017, 07:12 PM
togaflyer togaflyer is offline
 
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Location: Cleveland Ga
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Default Air filter box

Starting on the filter box. Anything I should watch out for?
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  #2  
Old 10-16-2017, 09:39 AM
Carl Froehlich's Avatar
Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
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I've posted before on adding an aluminum plate at the bottom.

Consider adding a .032 3/4" x 3/4" support angle from the front plate screw to the engine case bolt above it. This will help prevent the top cover cracking. The

If you want to get fancy, you can invert the top cover and use the taller E-100 K&N filter.

Photos available if you PM me your email.

Carl
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Old 10-16-2017, 12:37 PM
Dorfie Dorfie is offline
 
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I ran a strip of alum on the outside where the rivets hold the box to the top plate. The FG box gets sandwiched between the top plate on the inside and the alum strip on the outside. I've seen the rivet heads "eat" into the FG and loosen over time. Also used proseal between the layers.
I have also used a support towards the front of the box running from engine to the top plate of the box as described above.
I have also added the alum plate to the bottom of the box as mentioned above.
Cheers.
Johan
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  #4  
Old 10-16-2017, 12:54 PM
togaflyer togaflyer is offline
 
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Good info, thanks.
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Old 10-16-2017, 03:55 PM
Dorfie Dorfie is offline
 
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The plans also have you mount the rubber transition between cowl air inlet and filter box to the front of the filter box. I changed mine and mounted the bottom U shape to the cowl air inlet snout, with the top part (also U shaped so that the two parts fit well) mounted to the top of the FB. That way when you remove the bottom cowl, you can just drop it down, replacing the bottom cowl there is no need for fishing the rubber out.
Johan
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  #6  
Old 10-18-2017, 07:00 AM
togaflyer togaflyer is offline
 
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One other question. The two drain holes you drill in the bottom of the air box. The plans state either just drill the two holes, or the other option is glass in a drain tube in the bottom. For a fuel injected system, is the drain tube needed?
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  #7  
Old 10-18-2017, 08:03 AM
jwilbur jwilbur is offline
 
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Location: Culpeper, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by togaflyer View Post
One other question. The two drain holes you drill in the bottom of the air box. The plans state either just drill the two holes, or the other option is glass in a drain tube in the bottom. For a fuel injected system, is the drain tube needed?
I glassed in a fitting that allows me to attach a drain tube (and remove it). I'm glad I did. Had trouble starting engine first time. Looked on the ground after several tries and saw a puddle of oil (preservative oil, I assume) that had made its way through the tube. Took off the FAB at that point and cleaned it, etc. No problems since.
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  #8  
Old 10-18-2017, 08:23 AM
Dorfie Dorfie is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by togaflyer View Post
One other question. The two drain holes you drill in the bottom of the air box. The plans state either just drill the two holes, or the other option is glass in a drain tube in the bottom. For a fuel injected system, is the drain tube needed?
Glass it in. That will be the overflow when the engine is flooded. It is common to have flooding during engine start with FI engines. You don't want that fuel spilling inside the cowling. There are 2 adel clamps on the center bracket at cowl exit, one for draining the FAB when flooded, and one draining fuel from mechanical fuel pump should the diaphragm start to leak. I think they are both needed.
I also added a length of silicone tubing between the FAB and cowl exit to absorb the relative movement between FAB and center bracket at cowl exit.
Johan
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  #9  
Old 10-19-2017, 08:24 PM
togaflyer togaflyer is offline
 
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Thanks.....
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  #10  
Old 10-22-2017, 04:14 AM
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RV10inOz RV10inOz is offline
 
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We built a fully fabricated aluminium......or aluminum for you guys air box. Solved all the issues
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