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  #11  
Old 04-14-2014, 11:28 AM
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NovaBandit NovaBandit is offline
 
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As I recall, I had about the same gap. I believe that the floors help with the shape of the outer skin in that area. Just a little inward pressure on the fuse skin, and mine went right together.
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  #12  
Old 04-14-2014, 12:41 PM
jwilbur jwilbur is offline
 
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Originally Posted by NovaBandit View Post
As I recall, I had about the same gap. I believe that the floors help with the shape of the outer skin in that area. Just a little inward pressure on the fuse skin, and mine went right together.
Any oil-canning after it was all riveted together?
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  #13  
Old 04-14-2014, 01:58 PM
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Mine were not anywhere near that far off in alignment.
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  #14  
Old 04-14-2014, 02:28 PM
jwilbur jwilbur is offline
 
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Default I wonder why

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Mine were not anywhere near that far off in alignment.
I wish I could understand why anyone's are off at all. They most definitely were NOT off when I match drilled everything. They must bow outward somehow when the side skin gets riveted on. What else might cause this?

Also, to get the clecos in I have to push pretty hard on the side. I'm wondering if it makes sense to add a few more rivets to the floor/channel to increase the strength of that connection. Any thoughts on this idea?
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  #15  
Old 04-14-2014, 02:40 PM
Fracrat Fracrat is offline
 
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Location: Loganville ga
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Default I'm at this point now.

I believe the landing gear weldments are installed just prior to this. Could that have something to do with it? I know my weldments are going to have to be flexed inorder to get them in.
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  #16  
Old 04-14-2014, 02:52 PM
jwilbur jwilbur is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Fracrat View Post
I believe the landing gear weldments are installed just prior to this. Could that have something to do with it? I know my weldments are going to have to be flexed inorder to get them in.
That's not it. The gear weldments are installed after the floors. One segment of the weldment, in fact, sits on top of the floor. Good thought, though.
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  #17  
Old 04-14-2014, 03:23 PM
paul330 paul330 is offline
 
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I remember it took a lot of "easing" to get the rivets in. The problem is that the fuselage angle that you rivet to is slightly angled away. Basically, I had to put a cleco through whichever floor hole looked the closest and then guide it into the longeron and then push up to get it in place. Once you have one in, the others are easier.
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  #18  
Old 04-15-2014, 01:14 PM
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woodmanrog woodmanrog is offline
 
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I noticed that when I did my first inspection and took off the top floor panels it was very difficult to put the outboard screws back in. The trick was to install the outboard fasteners first and work toward the middle of the plane. I don't know why this went together easier but the center holes lined up perfectly using this method. Perhaps it will work the same way when attaching the riveted area of the floor. Might be worth a try.
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  #19  
Old 04-15-2014, 02:22 PM
dspender dspender is offline
 
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Location: Bay City, MI
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Can you describe oil canning? I am just installing the side skins and longerons so not to this step yet.
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  #20  
Old 04-15-2014, 02:28 PM
jwilbur jwilbur is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dspender View Post
Can you describe oil canning? I am just installing the side skins and longerons so not to this step yet.
Imagine the sound you hear when you squeeze one of those old-style metal oil cans when empty. In this case my front side skins are all riveted to the skeleton but when I cleco on the floors in place (in my case) it results in an ever-so-slight "deformity" or bubble in the skin so that I can press on the skin in that spot and cause this bubble to jump to another spot with a little "ka-chunk" sound.
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