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  #21  
Old 11-07-2017, 02:06 PM
Tacco Tacco is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: White Salmon, WA
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Following up…

Van’s Support confirms that “all of the holes in the aft window will need to be match/final drilled to #27”

So Step 6 on page 25A-03 is incomplete and I interpret it to mean “Final drill #27 the remaining #30 holes and the tapped #36, 6-32 holes in the F-1277B Aft Window”, instead of “Final drill the remaining #30 holes in the F-1227B Aft Window.” No subsequent or preceding step will tell you to go back and #27 drill the tapped holes - as logical as that seems.

My window is complete and here are some notes. I apologize if I’m covering old ground for anyone.

1. I had a scrap piece of Plexigalss to abuse beforehand to get used to working with the stuff. It REALLY makes a difference to warm up the shop to 80+ degrees!

2. Use a block of wood to backup drilling through the Plexiglas to lessen the risk of tear through and cracks. This is particularly important when enlarging holes. Van’s support reiterated this to me and indeed, on my scrap piece - with a little pressure, speed, and no backup….cracks. Section 5 recommends you not enlarge holes at all with a regular twist of plexi-bit. Unibit or reamer is recommended. Go slow!

3. I tried to be careful to maintain the 5/16 edge distance when placing holes. Pay attention to this in three places – The two forward most holes in the Aft Turtle Deck, the two holes forward of the area where you removed material for clearance of the Brace Bracket in step 10, page 25A-02…and on the F-1231 Roll Bar. If you drill the holes in line with the Roll Bar rivets, you might find you’ll be too close when the window is final trimmed. I offset my holes slightly aft, being careful my tapped screws would still engaged not only the Roll Bar but also the F-1231B Straps underneath.

4. When drilling the Roll Bar, it is important to drill and tap perpendicular holes. Otherwise the screws might contact the window and the screw head will not sit flat on the plexiglass. Not good. I have one I have to deal with.

5. When final drilling the tapped holes, go back and ensure you have drilled out all the treads. #27 and the 6-32 tap diameters are pretty close. If you get slightly off-center, and somehow I did on one or two, you’ll leave some threads behind. Easily cleaned up with a rat tail file.

6. Lastly I found that I only needed to final trim about 1/8-1/2” of material from the forward edge of the window. Provided you secure the window somehow, a hand-held belt sander is great for achieving a straight clean trim line.

On to the canopy!
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  #22  
Old 11-08-2017, 08:28 AM
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pstraub pstraub is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Galt, CA
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Thanks for the update, I will be removing the rear window soon to have the plane painted, so I will final drill those tapped holes before putting on the sealant and re-installing.
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  #23  
Old 11-08-2017, 03:50 PM
Cyclone Cyclone is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Grinnell,IA
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I re-read the plans again after reading this thread. I wouldn't have concluded in a million years to finish up the rear window by final drilling the tapped holes in the plexiglass. It struck me as quite odd that plexiglass would be secured with a rigid fastener at that point but the ELSA creed is follow the plans to the letter.
I made a quick trip to the shop yesterday to FINAL-final drill some holes.
Always amazed by the value of this website.
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  #24  
Old 11-08-2017, 08:55 PM
RFSchaller RFSchaller is offline
 
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
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It’s interesting how carefully we do the tapping and protect the threads - only to face the dilemma of how to match drill a replacement window in a few years without damaging the threads in the crash arch. I managed it, but it wasn’t easy!
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  #25  
Old 11-08-2017, 10:36 PM
rjtjrt rjtjrt is offline
 
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Location: Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RFSchaller View Post
It’s interesting how carefully we do the tapping and protect the threads - only to face the dilemma of how to match drill a replacement window in a few years without damaging the threads in the crash arch. I managed it, but it wasn’t easy!
Rich
Any tips on how you did this whilst protecting the threads?
John
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  #26  
Old 11-09-2017, 10:13 AM
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pstraub pstraub is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjtjrt View Post
Rich
Any tips on how you did this whilst protecting the threads?
John
Could you just use the old rear window as a template for drilling the holes in the new one? That way, you could keep the drill away from the rollbar. It might be a little challenging on the curved portion, but if you could flatten them out a bit to mark the holes, it might work.
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  #27  
Old 11-09-2017, 09:26 PM
RFSchaller RFSchaller is offline
 
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I went from the old flat lexan sheet to the new molded window, so I couldn’t use the old one as a template. I used Clecos to attach the holes except the roll bar. Then I center drilled each hole to the roll bar with a 1/16”” bit. I then removed the widow and final drilled each 1/16” hole. I had to enlarge a few holes in the window to get a good fit on some screws to the roll ran.
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