Originally Posted by sritchie
The latter comment is great and makes sense. What's surprising me in so many build logs is that people seem to be installing the camloc parts without ever touching the cowl. That part of the build sequence seems great now. I'm not ready for the cowl, so I'll build the flanges, rivet them on, mark the locations and wait to drill until I'm ready for the cowl.
Rupester, the plans don't address my two main questions:
1. What's the difference between the fixed and floating receptacles, and how do we decide where to use each?
2. Did you use EVERY receptacle provided in your kit or did you end with extras?
How did you address those?
MY SB kit was old and had all floating. It was so old SB offered to swap and update all the parts. I only used floating on the curved areas, fixed everywhere else.
Using fixed means they need to be precisely located. Using Rupsters method, of the 1/8 holes then drilling out to size worked well, but parallax yielded some off center holes in the cowl for me. Here
is how I addressed that.
Fastener location(s): A) If you want it pretty, line up the split line fasteners with one on the firewall. Use it as a fixed point. B) when setting spacing along split line, don't forget that the cowl is a different length from side to side. At least my SJ was. So don't make on perfect and transfer the fixed spacing to the other side. Remember the engine is twisted. It may not matter for you, but check it.
Lesson learned: My cowl and fitting was perfect, down to less than .010" error for all fasteners and gaps. Reinstalled a dozen times and each time was perfect - - until I replaced the top forward skin. The lesson is to fit all the firewall perimeter strips or skylocs, and rivet them in. Then do all the precision fitting.
To make the process definitive, use better tools.