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  #21  
Old 04-16-2014, 11:08 AM
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NovaBandit NovaBandit is offline
 
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Location: Hastings, MN
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I don't have any oil-canning.

I believe that the amount this is off may be variable based on how the builder made the bend in the front fuse side skin.
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  #22  
Old 04-16-2014, 11:44 AM
jwilbur jwilbur is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NovaBandit View Post
I don't have any oil-canning.

I believe that the amount this is off may be variable based on how the builder made the bend in the front fuse side skin.
... And probably also the twist in the channel. Now that I think about it, the pressure I have to apply to get the floor clecos installed is probably not removing an outboard "bow" in the channel, but rather twisting the channel to where it needs to be. If the bend in the skin wasn't exactly right, this, I think, will also contribute to the same twisting problem.

I wonder for future builders if it would be better to rivet the skins to the structure while the floors are clecoed in place (aside from the lower rivets which are covered by the floor). If I had done it that way, I'll bet I would have no oil-canning.
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  #23  
Old 05-21-2014, 07:58 PM
dspender dspender is offline
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bay City, MI
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Well I had to use much force while my wife placed the clecoes. I have oil canning, more on the right than the left. It looks symmetrical and almost as though it was meant to be there. For the life of me I cannot imagine how the floor pan can accept the tension it does with those few clecoes in the lower fuselage channel and not rip apart. Actually the oil panning I have looks a little stylish and I too wonder if it won't disappear as other structures are added. I plan to let the clecoes hold things in place a few days and watch to make sure a gremlin doesn't creep into the structure and make things worse.
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  #24  
Old 05-21-2014, 10:20 PM
jwilbur jwilbur is offline
 
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Originally Posted by dspender View Post
For the life of me I cannot imagine how the floor pan can accept the tension it does with those few clecoes in the lower fuselage channel and not rip apart.
I felt the same way and put in three more rivets on each side.
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  #25  
Old 05-22-2014, 11:21 AM
dspender dspender is offline
 
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I'm thinking it would be better to drill using the outboard floor pan holes as guides into the lower fuselage side channel after the skins are riveted in place, not before. I don't think the floor pan should be used to twist the side channel into the correct position.
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  #26  
Old 10-17-2017, 11:28 AM
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steve murray steve murray is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Flat Rock, North Carolina
Posts: 187
Default Floor Panel (F1050) & Lwr Fuse Channel (F1041) Matched Drill Holes no longer line up?

Resurrecting an old post. I am having the same issue with mis-alignment between the match drilled holes in the the front floor panel (F1050) and lower fuselage channel (F1041).

Now that the skins are riveted in place, the holes do not line up. I saw in earlier posts, folks putting a knee to the outside of the skin to force it into alignment.....not sure if this is the approach I should take or just drill new holes an inch or two down from the first holes..... sure would like to understand why the no longer line up.

You can notice in the photo, the edge of the floor panel and edge of the lower fuselage channel are diverging. Do other see this same divergence in these two parts....?

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  #27  
Old 11-05-2017, 09:21 PM
mciaglia mciaglia is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 78
Default Same problem..but hope to avoid

As I am muscling my way through chapter 29 I have come to the point of clecoing the front skins on for the first time. I have noticed what everyone has pointed out.
The lower F1040 side channel gets pulled away from the floor pans. I took all the steps necessary:
1.) twisted to 20 degrees-digital level confirmed
2.) Bent the skins to nearly be tension free on the bottom when in position (some builders have remarked that under bending can cause this problem)

I have not match drilled anything yet. Is there a sequence that I can do to avoid the possible oil canning or need to use brute force to get something to line up. It has been stated so many times that if something doesn't line up right you probably did something wrong, because Vans makes such a precision kit.

I was thinking about drilling the lower firewall bracket and the lower channel to the floor pans BEFORE doing the skins and leaving the tight curve underneath for last.

Any ideas
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