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Old 09-01-2011, 04:00 PM
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SMO SMO is offline
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Salmon Arm, BC
Posts: 903
Default Fire Barrier 2000

Originally Posted by vfrazier View Post
What is your plan for this material when, not if, it gets soaking wet?
After I got the SS foil laid up over the ceramic batting and installed it on the firewall (forward side) I went around it with Fire Barrier 2000 to prevent moisture penetration. In flight the engine side of the firewall would evaporate any moisture that found its way there. Parked the airplane will remain in a hangar when home, and when away from home it will have a cover that covers the rear cowl gap.

After all that, in the unlikely event moisture still creates a problem I will remove the batting.
Mark Olson
1987 RV-4 Sold
2003 Super Decathlon - Sold
F1 EVO Rocket, first flight May 31/14
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Old 09-01-2011, 04:47 PM
Lars Lars is offline
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Davis, CA
Posts: 961

Originally Posted by DanH View Post
Worth considering.

Cereblanket, from the McMaster-Carr catalog:

If exposed to oil or water, this alumina silica ceramic fiber insulation isn't permanently affected—its thermal and physical properties restore after drying.

Thermal Ceramics data sheet here:

The MIL-I-24244 approval means no corrosion of a heated, stressed stainless steel coupon after 28 days of contact with whatever leaches from the insulation when wet.

Soundcoat CSU data sheet here:

PVC/NBR/CR foam with 10% water absorption by weight. They plainly list it as a "sponge type"

PVC/NBR/CR? Oh yeah, somebody send some for a firewall test. You can buy it right here:
Having now had personal experience with the thermal ceramic batting, and with accidentally spilling liquid on it (coffee, not beer) I can tell you what I saw: the coffee, which was hot, mostly beaded up and ran off. Very little actually soaked in. That was a sheet lying horizontally on my workbench.

An additional note: for those planning on using this material, wear gloves when you handle it. It's much worse than fiberglass insulation in generation of itchy particles.
Lars Pedersen
Davis, CA
RV-7 Flying as of June 24, 2012
500 hours as of September 30, 2017
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:20 AM
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vfrazier vfrazier is offline
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Mount Vernon, IN
Posts: 1,067

In response to other comments, we recommend the Soundcoat M for sidewalls, not firewalls. Since the face is waterproof, when edge sealed with RTV, as recommended, it is virtually waterproof even though it is an open cell foam.

Soundcoat CSU is closed cell foam, and waterproof.

We like these products to prevent hot feet. That is our main concern.

Regarding batt insulation, I've seen many instances of corrosion caused by this type of stuff getting wet. That is the only reason I pointed it out.

Dan H is correct that anything added to the firewall may increase your risks and should be considered. My personal opinion is that hot feet are unacceptable and the small risk of adding insulation is worthwhile. YMMV.

Bottom line: We're not in this for the money. I still have my day job, and my main assistant is my son, a senior in college. We sell the stuff that we've found useful, stuff that other RVers might like, and nothing we sell makes enough money to get into an online feud. Ugh. My apologies if any of my previous comments were hurtful to anyone.
Vince Frazier
F1 Rocket and F4 Raider components
RV and Rocket Accessories, Tailwheels, Tools, & More
1-888-8FLYBOY (1-888-835-9269)

F4 Raider - under construction
F1-H Rocket "Crazy Horse" - sold
RV-4 "Chief Pontiac" - sold
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:28 AM
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jsherblon jsherblon is offline
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Stuck in Lodi CA
Posts: 310

Originally Posted by Lars View Post
Now that's funny. Good eyes! Turns out that except for writing, I'm ambidextrous. As my wife points out, I can make mistakes with both hands
I'd give my right hand to be ambidextrous...
Jim Sherblon

-7 Slider Finishing Kit

Stuck in Lodi CA
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Old 09-07-2011, 06:41 PM
wjnmd wjnmd is offline
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Seminole, FL
Posts: 264
Default In answer to your original question......

You might try looking at Click Bond products. I used them in my -7A to hold cable ties but also to attach nut plates to my wingtip installation. It is a system that uses a two-part adhesive and is much easier than nut plates. I recently took off my wingtip to install an Archer VOR antenna and the Click Bond nutplates showed no sign of loosening. I used them in the center tunnel to attach cable ties and they are holding well also.

If you are interested, look on their website and search insulation attachments. One reason I decided not to install firewall insulation was the difficulty in getting it to stay with the usual adhesives. Dan Checkoway chronicled how he installed his and then a while later chronicled how the adhesive didn't hold. I don't have any personal experience with the Click Bond firewall insulation anchors but I'm a big fan of their products and plan to use them in the near future with passing new wires and coax for my new panel.
Bill Near
RV-7A Flying
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Old 11-17-2013, 03:50 PM
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GrayHawk GrayHawk is offline
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: TexaRado
Posts: 772

Originally Posted by Lars View Post
I followed a suggestion Dan Horton made on one of those threads to which you alluded: I wrapped ceramic refractory wool batting with heavy aluminum foil, made to fit cardboard patterns I had previously created. Made slits to get past previously installed cables. Then drilled holes in various locations on the firewall stiffeners, and used .025 safety wire to lash the insulation panels in place. It was fairly straightforward to install due to not having the forward skin on yet. Would not be fun to r&r once it's in place, though.
What did you use for the aluminum foil? Thickness? width? Source?

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