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New builder emp tool question

Av8rRob

Well Known Member
Hey everybody, I just ordered a -14 empennage at Oshkosh on Monday. Now I'm going thru my tools and ordering some I'll need. So here's my question, will I need a close quarters die set for the emp? If so what size?

Thanks
 
Dimple Die

I have used the reduced diameter dies many times so far in the building of my 14A empennage kit. There are a few other "nice to have" special dies and misc. items that make things a little easier at points in empennage kit. These items used to be available from Avery. I think Cleveland now carries them.
Congratulations, and welcome to RV14 community!

The step below is from the plans for the Vertical Stab, the first part you will build.

Dimple the corresponding #40 holes in the flanges of the VS-702 Front Spar, VS-803PP Rear Spar, VS-704 Root Rib, VS-705 Nose Rib, VS-706 Tip Rib and VS-707 Rib for AN426AD3 flush mount rivets (use a reduced diameter female die).
 
Reduced diameter die, yes definitely. Also, there are some RV-14 specific tools like the beveled squeezer set for the elevator trailing edges and the special RV-10/14 bucking bar too that will make like much easier.
 
Thanks guys, I think I have all those items but I'm placing another Cleveland tool order and am wondering about specifically the close quarter die set. That's the one you use with the blind rivet puller.
 
Die modifications

You can also grind/polish a bevel on your female die. That's all I used on my Emp and wings and it worked great. I think just about all my female dies have been done. Still get the nice "witness rings" on them using the DRDT-2 and no issues w/my rivets.

X2 on the Emp-specific dies and bucking bar from C-land.
 
grind away!

I got a some spare 1/8 and 3/32 dies and took one set to the grinder to get a reduced pair.

I ended up using them a lot on some of the tighter squeezes. They are called for a couple times in the wing kit as well.

My witness rings come out just fine even on the reduced diameter set.
 
Get it

I'm not building a 14 but in general I cannot imagine not having my pop rivet dimple dies. You may not need them on the empennage but somewhere down the road they will come in handy for sure. They quite simply have the ability to put a dimple where nothing else can, and a pretty good crisp dimple at that. It's a case of "how the heck am I gonna dimple THAT? Then the lightbulb comes on and the pop riveter comes out of the drawer. Say you forgot to put a dimple somewhere and now can't reach it? They"ll save your butt. I only have the number 40 though, 30 probably not necessary since it's usually a skin dimpling thing.
 
One tool from Cleaveland I have not seen mentioned is the jig for countersink drilling the rudder trailing edge strip in your drill press. Much easier and probably more precise than trying to shim it. I forget what it costs (~$25?), but I think it was well worth it.
 
One tool from Cleaveland I have not seen mentioned is the jig for countersink drilling the rudder trailing edge strip in your drill press. Much easier and probably more precise than trying to shim it. I forget what it costs (~$25?), but I think it was well worth it.

I haven't seen that, and couldn't find it on Cleveland's site. What do they call it? Thanks
 
First attempt at posting a Pic

Pic 2/2, scrap pieces of aluminum clamped around and over scrap piece of wedge. note paper under cross aluminum to give it some more room on top. used oil on wedge to allow it to slide easier.
PF

wedge%20jig2.tif


Pic 1/2 wedge being drilled. I used holes under top wedge to help align. Small holes touching edge of big holes.


Wedge%20jig1.tif
 
A couple of photos to show how it works. I'm sure the Cleaveland folks can get you on it. They had them at Oshkosh this year.

IMG]http://i65.tinypic.com/w05cu0.jpg[/IMG]
IMG]http://i68.tinypic.com/htidj5.jpg[/IMG]

Remove the IMG text at the start and end of the address and you can see the images. For some reason it won't work otherwise. Sorry.

One more thing you will want to have is a 3/32" vice grip dimple thing. You won't need it often, but nice to have when you do.
 
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One tool from Cleaveland I have not seen mentioned is the jig for countersink drilling the rudder trailing edge strip in your drill press. Much easier and probably more precise than trying to shim it. I forget what it costs (~$25?), but I think it was well worth it.

Yes and you will also get to use it on the elevators, ailerons and flaps. All the trailing edges. I used the scraps and it worked, but I can see where this tool would be better. Who doesn't need another tool specific to building an aircraft?
 
A couple of photos to show how it works. I'm sure the Cleaveland folks can get you on it. They had them at Oshkosh this year.

w05cu0.jpg

htidj5.jpg


Remove the IMG text at the start and end of the address and you can see the images. For some reason it won't work otherwise. Sorry.

One more thing you will want to have is a 3/32" vice grip dimple thing. You won't need it often, but nice to have when you do.

Better ???
 
I'm currently just making notes about a potential RV-14 project. Having attended the RV Assembly Workshop at OSH this year and struggling with countersinking that trailing edge strip without even the benefit of the method described in Section 5, I really think that I want to make particular note of this tool. I've searched high and low on the Cleaveland website and cannot find it. Since I wouldn't be ordering for some time, I don't want to bother them with the question. Can someone provide a link to this jig on their website?
 
Just spoke to Cleveland tool about this tool. It is not on their website but they do have it in stock. Give 'em a call.
 
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