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The Adventure Begins!

mturnerb

Well Known Member
I have been planning for some months to build an RV-14A. After a long break from flying, I had an RV-12 previously (SLSA) and loved it's simplicity and the advanced avionics. But after putting 65 hours on the -12 in 5 months I decided to go to a higher performance aircraft. Considered RV-10 but ended up buying a 1975 Bonanza which I'll keep flying during the build. However it was always in the back of my mind that I wanted to experience building an airplane and a two-seater should work just fine for the mission. I may even end up keeping both.

The shop was a hard decision: we have been the "keep both cars in the garage" type for the most part. We have a 1-car garage but it's really tight and we need a place for junk including trash cans and recycle bin. So we decided to use "half" of the 2-car garage (and park the 2nd car outside when extra space is needed). My home was a builder's model so the garage is insulated and exceptionally well lighted, having been a showroom/office (14 can lights!). My big splurge was adding a mini-split AC to this room to make it tolerable in Florida from May to October. I added insulation to the garage door. The mini-split system is the bees knees....

Next step - build three workbenches: one 2x4 for vise, grinder, sander. Two standard EAA with a slight mod: two layers of plywood on top and a heavier molding around the plywood. Top layer is easy to remove. I'm adding some rubber mat padding as well. I wanted to put the band saw and drill press on a separate bench - found the perfect size on on Craigslist.

Yesterday I ordered the empennage kit. Heading to Synergy Air next week for the fundamentals class. I'm hoping to find an RV mentor or two in the Jax area to look over my shoulder. Vic Syracuse will be giving me some guidance as well.

Some pics of the shop below - since these photos I've added some RapidAir outlets/manifold and also a Cleaveland Air manifold to the compressor. Amazingly no leaks! Added lighting under the cabinets. Also a nice rolling toolbox. Tools on the way from PlaneTools.







 
Nice shop. You will need some way to store parts before/after they are assembled. Also, consider a temporary garage for the car(s). Since the project will take a few years(!), I put one in to avoid building resentment. Has been a great investment. Have fun!
 
Adding the AC unit was a really good move. If your garage is like mine, the afternoon temps are really uncomfortable. I added the AC unit before I started my build and that let me work in comfort any time.

Great looking shop ...
 
Nice shop. You will need some way to store parts before/after they are assembled. Also, consider a temporary garage for the car(s). Since the project will take a few years(!), I put one in to avoid building resentment. Has been a great investment. Have fun!

Our plan is to rent a first floor unit in a brand new climate controlled mini storage being built now in our neighborhood. One car will stay in the garage at night - my truck is happy outside. No room to add more garage space on our lot.
 
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Adding the AC unit was a really good move. If your garage is like mine, the afternoon temps are really uncomfortable. I added the AC unit before I started my build and that let me work in comfort any time.

Great looking shop ...

Thanks Tom!

I heeded Van's advice regarding comfort of the workspace. I built the first bench before the AC was in. I lost track of fluids and cramped up from water/salt loss. Not fun. AC is a necessity in our part of the world!
 
Garage

Looks great! If there is a way to put the compressor in the attic and run a line down into the garage, I would do it. That compressor will get really loud in there and it will free up some space. I hooked up a light switch for power to the compressor by the door out of the garage back into the house with a sign reminding me to turn it off. The first time it goes off at 2a.m., your significant other will not let you forget it again. You will also need to run a drain line along side the line for the air into the garage.

You will need some open shelves for parts and also some bins. Keep each "bag" of bolts, parts, etc. you receive in a separate bin. Then keep the inventory sheets handy so you can always put your hands on the correct bolt or part quickly. I used a label maker to label the bins, then when the next kit came in, take those off and put new ones on. When you get your shipment, it will come in kits, if you keep those parts together, it makes them easier to find when you need them. Some parts, bolts, washers, cotter-pins, etc. look the same and by keeping them in the kits (or bags) instead of mixing them together, they are easier to find by referencing the packing lists.

Now for the most important thing. Order a scotch-brite wheel http://www.cleavelandtool.com/3M-Light-Deburring-Wheel-6/productinfo/3MW77S6/#.V8mQKShTGM8 to put on your grinder. That will probably be the most used tool you have without question.
 
similar tools

Nice shop. I have the same drill press and compressor.

I love the compressor. Mine works as advertised, doesn't leak and is reasonably quite. I read if you change the intake filters to ones from Grainger, the noise will drop down another 3 dB or so. My only complaint is the pressure reg is very small, I usually set at 80 psi, which is low on the scale. I also added a needle valve and extension to the drain and drain it ever day before I leave.

Good luck.
 
Nice shop but looks empty. You need aircraft parts spread all over, cans of clecos on ever workbench, finished parts hanging from the ceiling, a first aid kit for when you drill through your finger, and a frig for holding your favorite cold beverage to drink while either admiring the work you just completed or to drown your sorrows while determining which parts are salvageable and which ones require a call to Vans.
 
Looks great! If there is a way to put the compressor in the attic and run a line down into the garage, I would do it. That compressor will get really loud in there and it will free up some space. I hooked up a light switch for power to the compressor by the door out of the garage back into the house with a sign reminding me to turn it off. The first time it goes off at 2a.m., your significant other will not let you forget it again. You will also need to run a drain line along side the line for the air into the garage.

You will need some open shelves for parts and also some bins. Keep each "bag" of bolts, parts, etc. you receive in a separate bin. Then keep the inventory sheets handy so you can always put your hands on the correct bolt or part quickly. I used a label maker to label the bins, then when the next kit came in, take those off and put new ones on. When you get your shipment, it will come in kits, if you keep those parts together, it makes them easier to find when you need them. Some parts, bolts, washers, cotter-pins, etc. look the same and by keeping them in the kits (or bags) instead of mixing them together, they are easier to find by referencing the packing lists.

Now for the most important thing. Order a scotch-brite wheel http://www.cleavelandtool.com/3M-Light-Deburring-Wheel-6/productinfo/3MW77S6/#.V8mQKShTGM8 to put on your grinder. That will probably be the most used tool you have without question.

Stoney:

Thanks for the advice, especially the organization parts. The compressor is "ultra quiet" model and not terribly loud, and is next to a guest bedroom (opposite the master) so I can live with it. I added an inline drain/filter/regulator (after these photos). I have a couple of bin-type organizers and I'm thinking of removing the doors from the cabinets to make for some open space. I think the 3M wheel is part of my order from Isham - if not I'll get one for sure. I'm 100% sure I'll have to make adjustments when the kit gets here.
 
Nice shop. I have the same drill press and compressor.

I love the compressor. Mine works as advertised, doesn't leak and is reasonably quite. I read if you change the intake filters to ones from Grainger, the noise will drop down another 3 dB or so. My only complaint is the pressure reg is very small, I usually set at 80 psi, which is low on the scale. I also added a needle valve and extension to the drain and drain it ever day before I leave.

Good luck.

I'll check out the filters for sure. Could you point me to a link or example for the needle valve? The valve on there now is pretty easy to use but not easy to get to. I have a second pressure regulator along with filter/drain so I'll use it as primary control for tools.
 
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Nice shop but looks empty. You need aircraft parts spread all over, cans of clecos on ever workbench, finished parts hanging from the ceiling, a first aid kit for when you drill through your finger, and a frig for holding your favorite cold beverage to drink while either admiring the work you just completed or to drown your sorrows while determining which parts are salvageable and which ones require a call to Vans.

You should see it today - I'm on the way! Yesterday was only a "two bandaid" day. Is this more like it?

 
BTW: I noticed the wheels you have on one workbench. I have the same wheels from Rockler, and they make a bracket that allows you to use the same set of wheels on multiple workbenches. Makes it easy to rearrange the shop when needed.
 
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BTW: I noticed the wheels you have on one workbench. I have the same wheels from Rockwell, and they make a bracket that allows you to use the same set of wheels on multiple workbenches. Makes it easy to rearrange the shop when needed.

I'll look into the bracket - those things are not cheap. I like them "OK" but I'm also going to try to just use some furniture sliders on the other benches. I've found the levelers to be even more useful - the floor in the garage slopes in two directions so every time I move a bench it rocks until leveled. Shims work OK for that too. I already don't like some of the layout but I'm just going to wait until I'm actually building to make any more changes. Seems that different phases of the build will dictate the layout to some extent.
 
Critique of your shop...

OK - I'll pile on

First if all its way too clean. Good airplanes are born in messy shops.

I would consider a separate stand for the grinder. You will be using it to debur long and/or oddly shaped parts so having it attached to a bench top will slow you down and make it downright impossible in some cases. And the deburring wheel makes this really fine gray dust. Consider where you want that stuff to accumulate.

Also a dedicated, carpeted DRDT table is very handy. You will need space on either side of it as well. I went to a local carpet store and asked if they had any remnants I could buy cheap. Instead they pointed me to a pile and said to take what I needed. You'll need it especially for the wing and fuse skins.

Finally, I have my tables away from the walls so I have access to all four sides. When you have a big piece clamped down its a pain to reposition and wastes time. Space permitting of course. Eventually you'll need two tables end to end for those wing spars.

Awesome lighting AND air conditioning?? Probably even wired for 220. That just not fair.
 
DRDT-2

You'll need to build a couple of extensions tables with carpet on them for your DRDT-2 to support the skins. Don't worry, you will get the shop like you like it. Let the fun begin, I miss it already!
 
OK - I'll pile on

First if all its way too clean. Good airplanes are born in messy shops.

I would consider a separate stand for the grinder. You will be using it to debur long and/or oddly shaped parts so having it attached to a bench top will slow you down and make it downright impossible in some cases. And the deburring wheel makes this really fine gray dust. Consider where you want that stuff to accumulate.

Also a dedicated, carpeted DRDT table is very handy. You will need space on either side of it as well. I went to a local carpet store and asked if they had any remnants I could buy cheap. Instead they pointed me to a pile and said to take what I needed. You'll need it especially for the wing and fuse skins.

Finally, I have my tables away from the walls so I have access to all four sides. When you have a big piece clamped down its a pain to reposition and wastes time. Space permitting of course. Eventually you'll need two tables end to end for those wing spars.

Awesome lighting AND air conditioning?? Probably even wired for 220. That just not fair.

great stuff - the grinder shouldn't be too hard to relocate if needed but I have limited space for more benches/stands - so maybe I'll move it to the end of the one it's on and move it a spot that makes it easier to clean up/manage dust.

I am planning to do the platform for DRDT - just got it yesterday. Probably will do a loose variation of their plans. I plan to move tables as needed - against the walls is the most convenient spot for now. We want to park one car at night so trying to be careful with that. And yes, while the wiring was being done for the AC I added a dedicated 220 circuit. (and the 4 plugs below cabinets are a dedicated circuit as well). I will be rewiring the compressor for 220 - waiting on some terminals for the new cord to get that done.
 
Grinder Thought

I have somewhat limited space (not really, just young kids with stuff everywhere). I mounted my grinder on a piece of plywood just larger than its footprint. I move the grinder into place and clamp it down when needed. As you can guess, I'm an occasional builder so this might not make sense for you.

Have a great time, we're having a blast!
 
The moldings on those benches look really nice and and will probably keep little round parts from rolling off onto the floor, but at least one bench with a top with about a 2-inch overhang along the front will be handy for clamping parts for drilling and riveting.
 
I built a special table for my DRDT that puts it at the same level as all of my other shop tables. This way, especially seeing as you have wheels on your tables, you can slide it up to other tables for additional support.

https://vafphotos.shutterfly.com/pictures/10#10

Also, I modified the side tables that Paul suggests to allow them to be moved forward and back. This, along with them being the same height as the other shop tables, gives you a lot of flexibility. (Note, these pics don't show the carpet on the side tables yet.)

https://vafphotos.shutterfly.com/pictures/10#9

Happy building!
 
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The moldings on those benches look really nice and and will probably keep little round parts from rolling off onto the floor, but at least one bench with a top with about a 2-inch overhang along the front will be handy for clamping parts for drilling and riveting.

Thanks - I did give that some thought. The bench I have my drill press and bandsaw on has good overhangs - I put it on casters yesterday so I can move it to a position that makes sense (side opposite the bandsaw has pretty good room available). If that doesn't work I'll make oversize top for one of the other benches.
 
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I built a special table for my DRDT that puts it at the same level as all of my other shop tables. This way, especially seeing as you have wheels on your tables, you can slide it up to other tables for additional support.

https://www.dropbox.com/home/flying-stuff/rv-14/Photos/000-Shop/img_0305.jpg

Also, I modified the side tables that Paul suggests to allow them to be moved forward and back. This, along with them being the same height as the other shop tables, gives you a lot of flexibility. (Note, these pics don't show the carpet on the side tables yet.)

https://www.dropbox.com/home/flying-stuff/rv-14/Photos/000-Shop/img_0306.jpg

Happy building!

Dropbox is logging me in to my folder and not showing yours for some reason.
 
Sorry for the bad links... I updated them to a shutterfly account and that seems to work. I tried to embed them, but that doesn't seem to work out so well.:confused:

I built a special table for my DRDT that puts it at the same level as all of my other shop tables. This way, especially seeing as you have wheels on your tables, you can slide it up to other tables for additional support. As the carpet will take up the height of the anvil and dimple die on the bottom frame, be sure to only make the height of the table surface to the height of the frame.

https://vafphotos.shutterfly.com/pictures/10#10

Also, I modified the side tables that Paul suggests to allow them to be moved forward and back. This, along with them being the same height as the other shop tables, gives you a lot of flexibility. (Note, these pics don't show the carpet on the side tables yet.)

https://vafphotos.shutterfly.com/pictures/10#9

Happy building!
 
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Sorry for the bad links... I updated them to a shutterfly account and that seems to work. I tried to embed them, but that doesn't seem to work out so well.:confused:

I built a special table for my DRDT that puts it at the same level as all of my other shop tables. This way, especially seeing as you have wheels on your tables, you can slide it up to other tables for additional support. As the carpet will take up the height of the anvil and dimple die on the bottom frame, be sure to only make the height of the table surface to the height of the frame.

https://vafphotos.shutterfly.com/pictures/10#10

Also, I modified the side tables that Paul suggests to allow them to be moved forward and back. This, along with them being the same height as the other shop tables, gives you a lot of flexibility. (Note, these pics don't show the carpet on the side tables yet.)

https://vafphotos.shutterfly.com/pictures/10#9

Happy building!

These worked - thanks. I am thinking about doing the platform per the plans that came with DRDT. Likely to do QB wings, not yet sure about fuselage... Your hangar has a great deal more room that my garage!
 
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