UnPossible
Well Known Member
Hey ? I?ve got a couple of quick questions on the building rudder. I?ve searched, but did not find a clear answer to my questions.
1. On drawing 7, there is a note to ?locally bevel outside edge (of R-913 counterbalance skin) to smooth transition of R-901 as it runs off the edge of the counterbalance skin??..
?.I?m not sure what needs to be done here. It seems to me that any beveling should be done to the edges of the rudder skin as the counterbalance skin looks like it should tuck in underneath. Additionally, what is the best way to do this (file, scotchbrite wheel???)?
2. Countersinking the trailing edge wedge. I thought I had this all set up, but now I?m having some issues. I found some scrap AL the same thickness as the rudder skin. I drilled a #40 hole and dimpled the scrap. I then set up my countersink cages so that the dimple just sits flat in the countersunk hole? (note a rivet sits a fair bit below the surface of the countersunk hole.
I tilted the table on my drill press so that the wedge was perpendicular to the countersink tool. The first side went great. However, when countersinking the other side, I?m running into issues. It appears that once I hit bottom on the second side, I?m enlarging the hole in the wedge, which causes the tool to wobble a bit leaving a ?rough? countersink.
Now I?m wondering if I set the depth too deep?. However, I went a couple of thousandths a time setting up the cage until the samples just sat flush. At this point I don?t know if this is normal, or if I should just order another trailing edge wedge and start from scratch.
Thanks again for all your help,
Jason
1. On drawing 7, there is a note to ?locally bevel outside edge (of R-913 counterbalance skin) to smooth transition of R-901 as it runs off the edge of the counterbalance skin??..
?.I?m not sure what needs to be done here. It seems to me that any beveling should be done to the edges of the rudder skin as the counterbalance skin looks like it should tuck in underneath. Additionally, what is the best way to do this (file, scotchbrite wheel???)?
2. Countersinking the trailing edge wedge. I thought I had this all set up, but now I?m having some issues. I found some scrap AL the same thickness as the rudder skin. I drilled a #40 hole and dimpled the scrap. I then set up my countersink cages so that the dimple just sits flat in the countersunk hole? (note a rivet sits a fair bit below the surface of the countersunk hole.
I tilted the table on my drill press so that the wedge was perpendicular to the countersink tool. The first side went great. However, when countersinking the other side, I?m running into issues. It appears that once I hit bottom on the second side, I?m enlarging the hole in the wedge, which causes the tool to wobble a bit leaving a ?rough? countersink.
Now I?m wondering if I set the depth too deep?. However, I went a couple of thousandths a time setting up the cage until the samples just sat flush. At this point I don?t know if this is normal, or if I should just order another trailing edge wedge and start from scratch.
Thanks again for all your help,
Jason