What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Static Port Rivet Part Number

Lynnb

Lynnb

Well Known Member
On the Van's site, I can find there Static port kit, but I cannot find just a reference to the static port pop rivets. Are these just LP4 pop rivets with the center drilled out, or something different?

Thanks,
Lynn
 
I bought the vans static kit, cant remember the part number. But once I looked at it I went to ACS and bought a proper port. I was really not impressed with the Vans port.
 
Trevor778 said:
I bought the vans static kit, cant remember the part number. But once I looked at it I went to ACS and bought a proper port. I was really not impressed with the Vans port.
Click to expand...

Not sure what does not impress you but there are literally thousands of RVs flying for many years with the original set-up.
There are also many more that tried other ports only to later remove them and go to the "pop-rivet" port because it is more accurate.

Sometimes simple simply works better.
 
Trevor778 said:
I bought the vans static kit, cant remember the part number. But once I looked at it I went to ACS and bought a proper port. I was really not impressed with the Vans port.
Click to expand...
Keep that in mind if you have airspeed calibration problems....:eek:
 
static port pop rivet number

A little searching found this,
I have it on the inventory as SD-42-BSLF
 
Lynnb said:
On the Van's site, I can find there Static port kit, but I cannot find just a reference to the static port pop rivets. Are these just LP4 pop rivets with the center drilled out, or something different?

Thanks,
Lynn
Click to expand...

I forget the part number, but it is the same rivet that they send you in their kit for attaching the rubber seal on the baffle kit. I didn't drill. I partially set the rivet (just firm enough to hold without movement) then pushed the shank in and used a dremel to cut off the enlarged end of the shank and pulled it out. This leaves the maximum length for attaching the hose. I then used RTV to help hold the hose on the rivet. The RTV allows you to bond the hose to the inside skin so I have more then the fit of the hose on the rivet to hold it.
 
Last edited:
gasman said:
Keep that in mind if you have airspeed calibration problems....:eek:
Click to expand...

That is part of the challenge with educating the RV masses.....

There is probably a lot of RV's now flying with error ( because of an incorrect port shape) and the owners have never tested to a level of detail that they know it.
 
rvbuilder2002 said:
That is part of the challenge with educating the RV masses.....

There is probably a lot of RV's now flying with error ( because of an incorrect port shape) and the owners have never tested to a level of detail that they know it.
Click to expand...

OK, please educate me and anyone else who will do what I've done.

I purchased the Safeair ports because I wanted positive attachment of the static lines via the NPT fittings. I mounted them in the same position Van's recommends from the OUTSIDE so they sit proud like every other static port I've ever seen. Now I SUSPECT (based on things read here) the port shape may be causing my significant under read (according to the GPS speed formula). I've checked for leaks on both the static and pitot systems and have had a professional Pitot/static check to rule out those easy things.

How best to correct the situation? Drill a hole in the center of the existing static port and proseal the domed rivet in there? Or must I abandon the Safeair static port? or move it to the inside skin so it's flush, and add the domed rivet?

I have left over rivets sent that came with baffle install kit. Is this the correct rivet? It's 3/8" diameter slightly domed about 1/16" thick.

Thanks in advance.

Bevan
 
Last edited:
Safe air port mod

Yes Bevan. Enlargement hole with 1/8 bit. This matches the baffle pop rivet shank nicely. Dremel safe air head flush with skin. Pro seal on inside of rivet head around shank and insert.
 
OK. The easy thing for me to do at this point is to ground the nub flush, drill for the rivet and proseal it place. This method maintains the body of the port surface mounted to the outside of the aircraft contrary to what seems to be the way it is intended to be done. Anyone done this with success?

Bevan
 
cjhammes said:
Yes Bevan. Enlargement hole with 1/8 bit. This matches the baffle pop rivet shank nicely. Dremel safe air head flush with skin. Pro seal on inside of rivet head around shank and insert.
Click to expand...

Have you or anyone you actually done this with successful results?

Bevan
 
I did this with current build in process. I used the steps I outlined and all worked out. Obviously not flying so can't provide perfomance experience.

My current flying RV8 uses the standard Van's approach with pop rivet, mandrel removed and RTV sealed. All per plans. Works fine. I wanted a little more robustness with fittings on this 2nd build so went Safe Air route but modified with pop rivet. Figure I now have best of both; proven exterior port profile with nicer fittings. Builders choice.
 
I did the same as others, added the Vans standard aerodynamic rivet to a safe-air part. ProSealed in place pop rivet holds the assembly to the skin. Successful? Don't know yet.

IMG_0681.JPG
 
Easy to make static ports with a rivet-like head and a proper barb fitting on the back side. It's a six-pack job for the Chapter member who has a lathe. You know...take him a six pack of something good, and a dimensioned drawing.

It would also be easy to re-machine a Safe-Air so it had a rivet-style head sticking through the skin. Or just machine a whole fitting with NPT threads.

A solid head allows filing to adjust indicated airspeed in Phase 1. (Maybe you do it with a rivet too. I don't know.) Just cover the skin around the port with masking tape, and slide a vixen file over the port.
 
Last edited:
Tony Spicer said:
Spoken like someone that has yet to have the opportunity to slither into an RV-4 tail cone and replace some rotten rubber hose!

Tony
Click to expand...

The factory supplied kit uses vinyl hose, not rubber.
The same system and installation is still flying on factory prototypes up to 27+ years old with no problems noted.
 
Here is a note I sent out on the RV-10 list about static ports.

Carl

I had the old Cleveland ports on the RV-8A - the version that was flush with the outside skin. Like Tim they were well off in airspeed. I ended up fixing the problem by drilling a 1/16" hole in the center of a 3/16" round head rivet, cutting the head off and then using epoxy to glue the head on the Cleveland static port. This provided enough height to solve the problem.

On the RV-10 I just used a couple of 3/16" rivets for the static port (AN470AD6-14 from Van's). I drilled a small hole all the way through the rivet (get a handful of rivet as it is not easy to keep the hole centered the whole way through the rivet). The drilled rivets are mounted through 3/16" holes in the fuselage in the standard spots with a touch of pro-seal (or epoxy of your choice). On the inside of the fuselage skin is a 1" diameter 1/8" thick piece of aluminum (with the same 3/16" hole in the center) that is pro-sealed over the rivet shank and to the inside of the fuselage skin. This provides a rigid mount for the rivet and attached tubing. A 1/4" nylon tube slides over the rivet shank, with more pro-seal, to make the connection.

The static ports proved to be very accurate.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top