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Battery on firewall needs heat shielding

CDN

Well Known Member
My RV-10 now has 35 hours on it and I've been removing the cowling regularly to check everything out. Up until now everything was checking out fine but now I've discovered that my choice of battery location needed a little more thought. Being 14" from the nearest exhaust component, I thought the regular light weight battery box would be sufficient and no additional heat shielding would be needed. I was wrong.

Last week I was caught by some unforecasted weather and spent the afternoon doing short hops between storm bands to get back home and lengthy ground runs to keep some heat going in the cabin in the frigid weather. I suspect this is when the outer case of my EarthX ETX900 battery absorbed more heat than it was designed to handle.
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The battery is still performing perfectly but the deformation was concerning so I contacted EarthX for their advice. Reg immediately recognized the damage as being caused by radiated heat. The case areas exposed through the cutouts in the battery box were the only areas affected. They offered to inspect the battery and recase it at no cost even though it was my own set up that caused the problem. I opted to upgrade the battery to the ETX1200 at extra cost now that this model will fit in the original battery box. EarthX was excellent to deal with and Reg and Kathy handled my concerns quickly and efficiently. They have offered outstanding customer service and I'm glad I chose this product.

I opted to install the lightweight battery on the firewall for several reasons. One was to eliminate the need for the long run of 2 AWG wire but mostly to keep the C of G where it needed to be with the Whirlwind prop and lightweight engine accessories. This goes to show that if you stray from the plans make sure you give your planned choices a thorough risk analysis and mitigate accordingly.

The battery is now protected from radiant heat by installing a simple .063 bent aluminum plate to the front and bottom of the battery box. If you opt for a firewall mounted battery you really should consider adding the few extra ounces it takes to either modify the battery box to protect from radiant heat or make a battery box without openings.

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Colin
 
Excellent post, Colin. If you are still a member of GAOA it might be a good idea to post similar information over there as I'm sure many can benefit from your experience and sage advice.
 
it's pretty toasty in there...

I have two free thermocouple inputs on my AFS (TIT1 and TIT2), and hooked them up to the top right side and top middle of the firewall, in free air. On runup both of them hit 180F for a short period, then went to 100F or less in flight and after shutdown they hit 180F again. OAT was 95F.
I wouldn't want to have any kind of battery there.

Lenny
 
Temperature

Not many batteries are rated at temperatures as high as you saw.

Operating temperature range:
PC310 and PC1800-FT: -40?F (-40?C) to 122?F (50?C)
PC370, PC950 and PC1100: -40?F (-40?C) to 122?F (50?C)
PC535 and PC625: -40?F (-40?C) to 113?F (45?C)
PC545, PC680, PC925, PC1200 and PC1700 without metal jacket: -40?F (-40?C) to 113?F (45?C)
PC545, PC680, PC925, PC1200 and PC1700 with metal jacket: -40?F (-40?C) to 176?F (80?C)
PC1350 and PC2250: -40?F (-40?C) to 104?F (40?C)
All other models: -40?F (-40?C) to 176?F (80?C)

http://www.odysseybattery.com/extreme_battery_specs.aspx

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I have two free thermocouple inputs on my AFS (TIT1 and TIT2), and hooked them up to the top right side and top middle of the firewall, in free air. On runup both of them hit 180F for a short period, then went to 100F or less in flight and after shutdown they hit 180F again. OAT was 95F.

I'm surprised the in-flight temperatures were so low.

Three ways to heat the battery (ignoring internal heating): conductive, convective, and radiation. Conductive is heat passed within a material via contact, for example, from firewall metal to battery box metal to battery. Convective means heating the battery with free air, at the temperatures recorded above. Radiation is energy passing line-of-sight from a hot body to a cooler body, here from the engine and exhaust pipes to the battery box.

All of them can be tweaked for a lower rate of heat transfer, but eventually the battery will stabilize at some elevated level. That's not to say the radiant heat shield isn't useful; far from it. It does mean lowering the elevated level will require a heat path out. For example, the additional sheet aluminum added as a radiant shield might be formed as a full box, and be supplied with cool air via a small scat tube.

Re the heat shield, a foil thickness would serve just as well as a 0.060" thickness. Tweak its performance by polishing both sides to improve its reflectivity and emissivity values.
 
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