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Tosten Grip in RV7?

schaplerrh

Well Known Member
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I'd like to put Tosten Grips in my 7 but reading all the post re panel clearance I'd like to see some pics of what you have done to address this problem in a 7. Most of the posts concern RV10, but as you know they have a different stick configuration. Send me a PM with your email and I'll reply to your email if sending pics via email is easier. Thanks. Robert
 
Cut the Stick

I had to cut the sticks down by two (2) inches to get clearance for my Infinity grips in a 9A. Now flying for three years, I wish I had cut it down three. Doing so would permit comfortably resting my forearm on my thigh throughout all flight regimes. Recommend you sit in the cockpit, rest your arm on your thigh while holding the grip next to the stick and mark where the base of the grip meets the stick. Then measure up the necessary amount to provide secure mounting of the grip.
Also, make sure you ? clock? the grip so you grip it naturally during flight. If you align it straight forward your wrist will be bent uncomfortably.
 
I'd like to put Tosten Grips in my 7 but reading all the post re panel clearance I'd like to see some pics of what you have done to address this problem in a 7. Most of the posts concern RV10, but as you know they have a different stick configuration. Send me a PM with your email and I'll reply to your email if sending pics via email is easier. Thanks. Robert

I too have the Infinity grips and had to cut 2-3 inches off the stick but very happy with the setup. The Infinity grips slide over several inches of the stick where the Tosten (I believe) is mostly attached to the top of the stick with not much stick inside. This would require more stick trimming, which might be where the curved stick in the -10 could be a problem.
 
Just take the standard length of the Van's stick tubing and subtract off the length of the new Tosten grip above its mount and that is how much to cut off. You can even go a bit lower. Just make sure you clear the controls with the panel and subpanel for the throttle/mixture/etc. 2-3 inches is not enough to clear the panel.

IMG_3624-M.jpg


IMG_3623-M.jpg
 
I put the Tostens in my 9A, like others I had to cut about 2" off my stick length to clear the panel. I initially put the grip in place on the full-length stick, ran it up into contact with the panel, and measured "about that much" to cut it off.
 
I installed Tosten military style grips in my RV7A two years ago. Like everyone else I had to cut around two to three inches off my stick. Used a pipe cutter to make the cut. I love these grips!!!
 
I'm installing the Tosten military, and had to cut about the same amount off. I wouldn't have minded cutting a little more off, however the palm support at the bottom ends up slamming into your leg at full roll deflection (and I have skinny legs). The other thing to watch is conflict with the throttle control at idle, and mixture for the right stick. The head on the military grip is pretty wide, so I had to change the engine control bracket angle slightly. The CS-8 has a different style head, so hopefully this conflict is not such an issue.
Tom.
 
As the previous posters said, cut off the equvalent length of the grip. You may have to cut a bit more after checking throttle clearance. I did.

One thing not mentioned is rotating the grip to fit the left hand in its natural rest position. I did and it 'feels' completely correct while flying. There is little reason to point the grip straight forward.

My passenger stick is the stock vans unit with a rubber grip. PTT on the panel. With no Tosten there, no concern about which way to point it.
 
TOSTEN CS-8

This model, pictured in Bruce Hill's post above, has a swivel mount. This removes the alignment angle others have mentioned above. It swivels to wherever your hand is comfortable while flying. A nice benefit.
Check out his build site. He also made his co-pilot stick removable with functioning buttons. a VERY NICE feature I copied. Thanx Bruce.
 
This model, pictured in Bruce Hill's post above, has a swivel mount. This removes the alignment angle others have mentioned above. It swivels to wherever your hand is comfortable while flying. A nice benefit.
Check out his build site. He also made his co-pilot stick removable with functioning buttons. a VERY NICE feature I copied. Thanx Bruce.

??? That mount looks identical to my Tosten. When the socket head cap screw is properly tightened, the grip position is fixed. It can be set at whatever rotational angle desired, but it is fixed once the screws are tightened.

Are you saying you are leaving that SHCS loose (but locked with locknut) so it rotates under use?
 
Bill - I recall installing per instructions, and those are at the airport too. I?ll check my installation tomorrow and get back to u.
 
?
Are you saying you are leaving that SHCS loose (but locked with locknut) so it rotates under use?

No. The SCHS is tightened and the locknut is also. But the SCHS clamps on to the bushing inside the stick shaft. My black handle rotates on top of the bushing. U are implying that yours is locked on top of the bushing - yes? If so, Not sure why u would do this. I think they were designed to rotate this way. Or have I done it wrong?? The bushing is locked into the stick shaft, I just checked both of my sticks. Both rotate nicely to whatever position your hand is comfortable while holding it. And they can?t be pulled off the shaft. Or maybe we have different models. ??
 
Tosten

I have the same Tosten grips as Bruce. The grip can be rotated to the desired position until the cap screw is tightened and the lock nut secured. Once secured the grip will not rotate.

Al
 
I have the same Tosten grips as Bruce. The grip can be rotated to the desired position until the cap screw is tightened and the lock nut secured. Once secured the grip will not rotate.

Al

Exactly right.

pilotkms, the SHCS does not clamp the bushing, it impinges on the grip tube right at the relief in the tube. It is good machining practice to relieve a shaft or tube like that in order to 'hide' the damage done by the end of a setscrew or bolt. This make is easy to disassemble at a later date. The nut on the SHCS does the clamping of the bushing to the control stick. If your grip is rotating , the SHCS is either too short or not screwed in far enough.

Fair warning. the nut will come loose. It has on me a half dozen times in 700 hrs. I can immediately feel a little wiggle in the bushing at that point but the SHCS is still tight against the grip tube. I have not yet put a nylok on it. But, in your case, loose nut and a few turns of the SHCS and you will have the unwelcome surprise of a grip that is loose in your hand not connected to the stick. :eek::eek:
 
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Just took out my copilot stick and disassembled it to see how I had put it together several years ago.
I put the SHCS thru the shaft, into the bushing and then far enough into the grip bottom to fit into the machined channel Midway on the grip bottom, but not tight enough to restrict its rotational movement. With a tightened locknut, still tight. It?s been this way thru construction and now with 120 hours flying time. I?m comfortable with how it works and will add an inspection step for this on my annual Condition Inspection checklist.
I did check with Bruce and he advised his are fixed, they do not rotate.
Thanx for the awareness.
 
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