What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

RV-9A #91894 Bruce Hill

bruceh

Well Known Member
I am 2.5 years into building a slow build RV-9A. I'm located in Ramona, CA near San Diego.

I have many photos and commentary from the build on my website (see link in my signature), however the photos are arranged into galleries by section and it is not a chronological weblog. Having this new thread is a great idea to post an occasional status update as I progress towards completion.

I started the project in August of 2009 with the purchase of the Tail Kit.

647512895_trxnC-M.jpg


I finished the tail kit in the 2 months that the Wing Kit was on order. The Wing Kit took about 6 months to complete.

1237503550_oboCo-M.jpg


The Fuselage Kit took me just about a year to complete.

1026701105_rR2jX-M.jpg


I am now working on the Finish Kit. Canopy is about 85% done. Still need to bond the plexiglass to the frame and finalize the latching mechanisms and struts for the tip up. No engine or prop yet, so the Cowling and Firewall Forward work remains. I'm about half done with the electrical wiring. I'm getting ready to finalize my panel layout in the coming weeks. This is point in the build where everything you do is completely customizable. I haven't looked at the plans for months!

I have met a number of builders through VAF, and look forward to meeting more in the coming years. The shop is always open to new visitors, so if you find yourself in lower left corner of the US, please drop on by.
 
Bruce, I really enjoyed visiting with you when I was down there, and I'm enjoying these pictures, too! You're moving at a really fast pace. Wow!
 
Got to do some riveting today after a long time spent on wiring up the rear fuselage. I was able to get this riveting done solo. Helps to have long arms!

IMG3908-M.jpg


Inside view.

IMG3910-M.jpg


Seat belt harness cables installed.
 
Seat belt cables...

YIKES! I guess you really DO have long arms.

I also got to visit this project and it was GREAT! I'm about 2 years behind Bruce, and got a lot of great tips. Thanks for the help!

Dkb
 
Feeling beat up and bruised today! Getting those bolts in there was not fun, but I was able to stretch just enough to get it done without having to crawl into the rear fuselage. Still need to put some torque seal on those bolts.

IMG3911-M.jpg


I put the hardware that the plans call out on the harness cable clevis. Looks like this just floats/swivels on the anchoring point? Do I need to put any washers in there to fill the gap between the clevis and the anchoring point? I snugged up the nut on the AN4 bolt to where the threads run out.
 
Static Lines

A very tidy installation. You may want to reconsider the location of your static line tee which is on the left side of the fuselage near the static port. I have read that the left and right lines to the tee should be of equal length so they provide equal differential pressure during left and right sideslips. I am planning to use a union Y fitting. It has a single port on one end and two ports on the other end with a bolt hole between the two ports. Then I can bolt it to the tooling hole in the middle of the bulkhead and run the left and right pitot lines up to it using one port on each side, and run the outlet port to the forward fuselage from the remaining port on the left side.

Couldn't post a picture but see this link:
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...eumatic_Fittings_(Thermoplastic)/Union_Y/UY14
 
Static...

You may want to reconsider the location of your static line tee which is on the left side of the fuselage near the static port. I have read that the left and right lines to the tee should be of equal length so they provide equal differential pressure during left and right sideslips.

Terry, are you serious? Would it make that much of a difference? You would think that since it is "static" it would be ok. I'm interrested in this if there is further info from you ar anyone. Thanks.
 
Love the search function on VAF. I can usually find some topic like this that has been discussed. Here is the thread link.

I've looked at dozens of builder web sites and I haven't seen any that I can recall that centered the Tee on the static port. I guess if down the road there is an issue with static pressures being unbalanced, I'll fix it then.
 
FWIW, I put my Tee fitting half way between the left and right static ports, physically located on the fuselage center line at the top of the bulkhead. But I have to admit that if that configuration willl give me more accurate readings in a slip, I'll take that, but that's not what I was thinking about at the time. My main motivation for placing the Tee high up on bulkhead was to minimize the possibility of water intrusion into the line that runs from the Tee to the cockpit.
 
Panel thoughts

IMG3914-M.jpg


Spent some time trying to figure out the layout of my instrument panel. I haven't bought a COMM radio yet, so that would take up some space between the Dynon Skyview display on the left and the Garmin 796 in the middle. I like the MGL V6, but would like to see what Dynon is going to bring out for their COMM. Switches under the Skyview display just barely fit. Need to play around with some scraps and make a template for the switches. Standard toggles with the half circle guards between them. I have no idea on how I will label this stuff, but want it to look clean and professional. Starter key switch on the far left. At this point I don't have anything planned for the circular spaces (except maybe the V6 COMM). The Skyview display on the right is also just a place holder. I'll probably leave that blank and put an iPad there for inflight entertainment. Another possibility would be to get a SV-D700 on that side. On the far right is the Hobbs meter, ELT remote and some 12V auxiliary power ports. Three LED lights over the SV screen for EMS warning, low volt warning and boost pump. Still have some things to buy before I start cutting any holes in the panel. For now I'm just trying to get the spacing laid out so that I can get the forward fuselage ribs that hold the center of the panel reattached to the subpanel. I also need to put the tipup canopy frame back on here and see if there is good visibility and clearance for all of the panel items.
 
IMG3911-M.jpg


....Do I need to put any washers in there to fill the gap between the clevis and the anchoring point? I snugged up the nut on the AN4 bolt to where the threads run out.

Yes, you should put washers or a spacer in there.

And since you've squeezed the clevis, it's worth checking it with a ten power magnifying glass to ensure that you haven't cracked it - check it while it's still installed so that if there are any cracks, they won't close when the fastener is removed.

Then look up the table in AC 43-13 to make sure that the squeeze hasn't affected the swage near the clevis.

If there aren't any cracks and the swage isn't affected - and I'd expect this to be the likely outcome - you're good to move on.

Dave
 
Dave,

The clevis is not pinched or bent at all. The washer & nut bottoms out on the AN4-7A bolt.
I'm guessing the cable and clevis is meant to be loose enough to swivel.
Looks like at most I could get 1 more washer in there, but then it might be too tight to swivel. The plans are pretty vague on this, so I appreciate the feedback.

Here is a photo of the clevis and bolt.
IMG3918-M.jpg
 
Last edited:
Terry, are you serious? Would it make that much of a difference?
I believe that he is and that it does (because air is compressible)... sort of (because it likely makes the lengths the same - see below) ... when the differential pressure is significant like when in a slip.

And it should be noted that physical geography has nothing whatsoever to do with the balance point of the pressure - i.e. it does not matter WHERE physically the tee is located (right, left, top, bottom, etc) in the fuselage - what matters is that the plumbing lines are of equal distance on both sides of the tee, to their respective static ports.

You can mount the tee right next to one static port, as long as you loop enough line so that both plumbing runs are of equal length, you'll still have the average of the two ports present on the tee fitting.

With the installation done with the tee at the top the ability for water to get to the instrumentation is decreased.


The plans are pretty vague on this, so I appreciate the feedback.

Thought that the drawing was rather clear, but I'll double check...
Bolt, clevis, washer, self-locking nut.

Drawing says :
AN7-7A Bolt
AN960-416 Washer
AN365-428 Nut

What wasn't consistent was why a self locking nut is used on one end and a castle on the other ... but probably because the seatbelt end get significant movement and twisting and the attach end is rather stationary.
 
Last edited:
Panel

Bruce, Friday I was replying to your panel info when lightning struck. Fried the ethernet port on my router and computer. Got a TV also. Clear blue today so maybe.... Going with 1 com radio, you must intend VFR only so what you have is good. A warning light for the EMS is already handled by the Skyview popup and audio warnings. They can be for high or low temps, pressures, volts, etc. You could create something to show your boost pump running with a little thought. The Skyview will also remember flight time, tach time, and hobbs time whether you display them or not (don't buy a hobbs). Rather than backup steam gauges spend the extra money on a second ADAHRS. If you are really considering a second Skyview, don't put it way over there in front of your passenger. That's where mine is and my wife never looks at it. It will be out of your scan, not unusable, just never looked at. The only thing mine is used for is one knob is always set for the heading track, the other barometric pressure. To get the Skyview audio warnings you will need to wire to an audio panel or intercom--something that has auxillary inputs. Send you a pm with picture.
 
Last edited:
If you are really considering a second Skyview, don't put it way over there in front of your passenger.
Unless someone is going to fly from there...
We use it all the time over there...

We installed a backup 2" compass and airspeed.
Everything else is backed up with the 696.

We installed a light for"
EMS warning
Oil Pressure
Alt
Starter engaged
 
Continuing with canopy work

IMG3969-M.jpg

I finally got the canopy frame back on the fuselage after doing the majority of my wiring. With the frame on the fuselage, I could set the distance between the mounting points of the struts that hold up the canopy. These parts have been collecting dust for the last six months. I measured and marked the minimum distance of 9 11/16", then added a sixteenth for good measure. Marked the top rails, set the vertical gap enough for the strut end caps to rotate without binding (used a 1/8" spacer), and drilled the holes using the predrilled spacers as a drill guide. The flush mounted screws normally require nuts and washers to hold them in place, but trying to get a wrench in under the top rails is next to impossible. Instead I fabricated up some backing plates with nutplates. This easily slides up under the top rail and really holds the strut mounts securely in place.

IMG3971-M.jpg

Strut in place on the canopy frame and top rail mount point. Without the canopy bubble weight on the frame, it is a bit over sprung.

IMG3973-M.jpg

The lower latch lugs are hard to hold in place and match drill. The trick here is to adjust the latch fingers with the control ends on the main latch rod until the fingers are in the best position relative to capturing the little roller on the lugs. Put the lugs up in place against the fingers and the canopy frame, then I used a #40 drill bit by hand to make a tiny mark on the upper hole in the lug. Took the latch lug off, centered and punched the mark and drilled it to #40. This allows you to hold the lug in place while it is up against the canopy roll bar. You can swing the lug a little bit left and right to get it centered on the latch fingers, then make another mark, and drill that one. Everything on mine lined up perfectly centered. Eventually these #40 holes will be drilled out larger for bolts. This leaves some room for fine tuning, but for now these latch nicely where they are.

IMG3977-M.jpg

I cut out some guide blocks for the tip up canopy. This is UHMW plastic, 1"X4", 3/4" thick, with the corner cut down. These will be fastened to the roll bar and will guide the lower latch lugs down to the opening in the canopy rails. It should prevent the corners of the bubble from contacting the rear skin of the fuselage where they tuck in place.
I cut this material with the table saw, then used sand paper of progressively smaller grit to get this all smoothed out.

IMG3981-M.jpg

The guide block installed on the roll bar. I had to open up the slot for the lower latch lugs just a bit. It is a very tight fit, but with the guide blocks in place the canopy comes down nicely and into closed position smoothly.

IMG3979-M.jpg

I went ahead and drilled and countersunk the top canopy latch block. You can see how the lower part of the latch handle has to be pulled down against the spring tension in order to turn to latch under the roll bar.
 
Top handle spacer

You'll need to put a spacer between the canopy top handle and the nylon block so that the handle can rotate without hitting the frame it's attached to. You're always pushing up on the handle to open the canopy then rotating it to hold it cracked open against the roll over bar, so it needs to freely rotate and clear.

With the tipup, you'll be limited on large display locations unless you work out changing locations of the panel mounting ribs.
 
Mike,

I'm not sure what you mean by adding a spacer. There seems to be plenty of friction in the block so that if I pull the spring down and turn, the spring force doesn't necessarily pull the handle back up. The whole idea of adding the spring and setting the latch up against the canopy frame is to prevent the latch from accidently rotating and locking you out of the cabin.

I put a strip of UHMW plastic where the upper latch sits under the roll bar.

IMG3984-M.jpg


The forward panel ribs have been relocated (but not yet riveted) towards the center of the panel. I moved them in each by 5" and have a nice 8" wide center space on the panel.
 
Wings On!

Big day and some Major Visible Progress (MVP). With some expert help from Roee Kalinsky (RV-7A builder), and some assistance from my kids the wings are on the fuselage.

IMG0078-M.jpg

Me like what we accomplished.

IMG0094-M.jpg

It is nice to have a 3 car garage as an airplane factory. The RV-9A, with its longer wings, just barely fits inside.

More photos and write up on my web site.
 
3 year anniversary!

I have hit the 3 year mark in this project. Current status is that the tail and wings are completely done (except for wiring up the lighting). The fuselage is done except for the top skins at the front and behind the rear window. I'm ready to bond the canopy bubble on to the frame - just need a free weekend to get that done. Most of the wiring is done in the fuselage, but the panel is still waiting to be cut. I have a few more items to buy on the panel before I can do a final design. I am in the process of buying an engine (IO-320) and prop. I recently started prepping the baffle parts. Cowling work is on deck.

IMG2182-M.jpg


When I started this project, I figured it would take me 5 years. I should be able to get all of the firewall forward work, cowling, and panel done by then. :D

I'm paying as I go, and right now it is getting expensive. Not to mention I have multiple children in college. My youngest starts college next week. She is going to be at CU-Boulder for the next 4 years. I need to get this thing flying so we can travel out there from SoCal to visit her.
 
Back in the shop after what has seemed like months of traveling.
I got my son to help me get the canopy bonded on the frame with Sikaflex. I've been ready to do this for the last 2 months, and just kept putting it off. After about 3 hours of work, it is done! Just need to let it set up for a day before I can take if off the fuselage and make it look pretty and pull all of the masking tapes off.

IMG2526-M.jpg

Laying down a bead on the frame.

IMG2536-M.jpg

Working on the inside to get a good bond between the bubble and frame.

IMG2540-M.jpg

All positioned and pinned down with various clamps, weights and straps.
 
The beginning of the end of the canopy work!

After what seems like endless prep on the fiberglass fairing along the front of the canopy, I finally got it looking good enough to spray on some high build primer.

IMG2582-M.jpg
 
penultimate skin is riveted

I was able to get the final top skin on the fuselage with the help of my son. Those furthest rivets were just too far for my arms.

IMG2719-M.jpg


I decided to work on the routing of the AOA, pitot and static lines to the Dynon Skyview ADAHRS. I felt that the lines needed some support as they make their way to the unit. I ended up fabricating and installing this little support shelf.

IMG2716-M.jpg


IMG2717-M.jpg


I also moved how my conduit for the AOA and pitot lines from the wings is oriented. Instead of going back another bulkhead, I moved it to go up the center baggage bulkhead support. This will give the lines a much nicer path to the ADAHRS.

IMG2718-M.jpg


Next up is bonding in the rear window with Sikaflex.
Rebuiding the engine will start in a couple of weeks! Then all that is left is the firewall forward and finish the panel.
 
Great job Bruce!

I wish I would have done that with my canopy rather than use the screw method!
 
SUPERB workmanship, Bruce. Wow! I looked at all your pics on your website, and came away with some valuable tips for doing my own rear window in the near future. Way to go!
 
Rebuild of the Engine has started

Crank has the rods on and they are installed into the case.

IMG_2793-M.jpg


Cylinders are next.

IMG_2792-M.jpg
 
Looks nice Bruce. The engine looks like a fun thing to put together. I saw in an earlier post you had a daughter going to CU. If you even need a place to stop on the way to visit, come on by! There are RV people all around Denver and Boulder. I enjoy reading about your progress since we are about the same stage. I cheated to catch up! I have two O-320 D2A's in the back of my car now. One for me and the second going to Boulder!
 
Looks nice Bruce. The engine looks like a fun thing to put together. I saw in an earlier post you had a daughter going to CU. If you even need a place to stop on the way to visit, come on by! There are RV people all around Denver and Boulder. I enjoy reading about your progress since we are about the same stage. I cheated to catch up! I have two O-320 D2A's in the back of my car now. One for me and the second going to Boulder!
Yes, my youngest kid is now at CU-Boulder. We dropped her off in August and we went right by your town, but didn't have time to stop. Maybe in May when I head out there to pick her up? Wish I could fly out there, but I know I won't be done that quick with the plane. Maybe before she graduates! :D
 
Bruce, what is the engine stand you have and how is it mounted? Did you weld something up or get it someplace? The colors you used should not only look nice, but make it easy to spot any leaks.
 
The stand is just some steel tubing welded up. It is owned by the guy who is rebuilding the engine for me. There may be other photos of it on my web site under the Firewall Forward -> Engine gallery.

I had several choices on engine paint. I could do my own rattle can job, or use the real good stuff. For a couple of hours of labor, he had his guy spray it with Continental Gold after I did all of the masking job. The other choice was Lycoming Gray. I figured for what the cost of an engine is these days, I can truly say I have a gold plated engine! ;)
 
Last edited:
I looked at your pictures and saw one I think I can get enough from to put one together. Im really not sure I need one since the engine is already built, but it looks like a good way to store the engine. I look at your pictures quite often when I have a question!

My engine is Lycoming gray, but nice and new! I was pretty excited to get the engine - it makes the build "real". I have seen some real nice blue and red paint jobs, but your gold looks very good. Maybe after I fly mine for 2000+ hours I will give it a nice paint job!

One question - I was putting my motor mount on and I noticed it doesn't call for a washer between the mount and the firewall. The mount has a flange on it, but I thought it should have a washer under it. Dod you put an AN 970-7 or 8 between the mount and the firewall? The lower plate nut for the fuel pump hits the mount and maybe a washer would make that fit better. I am going to have to move the plate nut to make the mount fit.
 
Up on the gear and the engine mounted!

Finally back working on the project after the holidays. I was able to get all of the decorations back up in the attic and clear out my shop. I had to move everything around so I would have enough room to mount the engine. Got the gear legs on, then with some help from my son and daughter, we were able to get the engine completely mounted.

IMG_2943-M.jpg


More photos on my web site.
 
Looks great Bruce. The engine color is pretty nice! The plane looks so much bigger when they are on their gear.
 
Nice!

Oshkosh 2013?..... Or at least the Harris Ranch New Years Eve party.:D

It's all coming together nicely.
 
Getting on with the cowling

A nice long weekend to get some progress on the cowling.

IMG_2981-M.jpg


It is slowly starting to come together. I just had to get the full effect with top, bottom and spinner on there temporarily. Finally starting to look like an airplane!
 
Looking good, Bruce ...

I did the same thing when I got to that point .... just HAD to see it with the spinner on and lookin' all dressed up. It's an exciting change after looking at that bare engine hanging on the nose for months. :D
 
Bruce,
Looks great.
FYI warning. Make sure you are comfortable with the interim spacers in their ability to hold the spinner back plate concentric with the motor flange.

Mine was not as good as desired and I wound up with slight "spinner sag" right from the get go after installing the prop.

Most people don't notice but as a builder you know it drives us crazy. ;)
 
Done with the Baffles

Installed the baffle seal material yesterday. I'm calling the baffle work DONE. I still have some fine tuning to do, and some RTV sealing work, but that can wait.
After hearing all of the stories of how horrible the baffle work can be, I was pleasantly surprised by the updated kit from Van's. Just a lot of iteration and trimming, but everything went together really well.

IMG_0199-M.jpg


The entire gallery of Baffle work photos and commentary.
 
Hey Bruce, how about a couple of pictures of your hinge keeper in the front? Your plane is sure looking nice! The baffling looks like quite a bit of work. I wish I was keeping up with you!!

edit - I just found the pics. Nice work. I think I will copy you!
 
Last edited:
I finished up all of the firewall forward wiring work.

IMG_3863-M.jpg


IMG_3864-M.jpg


IMG_3865-M.jpg


The to-do list is getting shorter. Next up is the instrument panel.
 
That's looking really good Bruce!

I just got back home from the Arlington Fly In a couple of hours ago in my 9. You are going to love your time machine!
 
Back
Top