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Refurb project - finishing the dream

BruceMe

Well Known Member
Hey folks, this isn't a "new build" project. And it's not even a major repair project. It's more of a picking up where I left off on an airplane I built.

The goal.. a safe, clean, capable, efficient 40+mpg RV-4 that I can cruise around the country in.

I created a blog to track my progress and report on it.

http://254mm.blogspot.com


-Bruce
 
Engine overhaul first

I'm going to tare down and ship off the engine for overhaul while I rebuild the canopy.

I took off the flashing, took out the jugs, induction system, all accessories and bagged/labelled all the nuts and bolts. It's ready for the uniloader hoist it off the mount so I can reach the last pan bolts and remove the accessory case then drop the "bottom" (really the center core with crank/cam) into the car to transport to Tulsa for the engine shop to do final disassembly, clean, magna-flux, measure and re-assemble the core. I'll put the pan, accessory case, jugs, accessories, induction back on when it returns in late January.

IMG_20171104_154607.jpg
 
Why have them put the case and internal parts together only? Are you going to have the cylinders checked and honed along with new rings and possibly new pistons if needed? Just wondering.
 
RV-4 refurb

Bruce,

If you're going to put on a new canopy are you considering just using sikaflex and no rivets? Mine had a riveted canopy when I got it and yes you guessed it- had small cracks at several rivet points. Put on a tinted canopy using sikaflex and after 2 years it's holding up perfectly.
 
Why have them put the case and internal parts together only? Are you going to have the cylinders checked and honed along with new rings and possibly new pistons if needed? Just wondering.

I'd like someone that's experienced and being checked to do the tricky front bearing. If you put that in wrong, throw away the engine. I'd also feel better with them sealing the case. I've done the rest before.

I will do a full overhaul including the top-end. I'm likely going to replace the pistons with 10.5:1 for increased cruise efficiency, not raw power, but I'll get that too.
 
Bruce,

If you're going to put on a new canopy are you considering just using sikaflex and no rivets? Mine had a riveted canopy when I got it and yes you guessed it- had small cracks at several rivet points. Put on a tinted canopy using sikaflex and after 2 years it's holding up perfectly.

The canopy on there now is 100% sikaflex built ~2006 (about 2 yrs before first flight). I honestly did a messy job. Others have posted better work. My canopy has never cracked or de-bonded to the frame despite really awful abuse. The "non-critical" skirt which I sikaflex'd as well, has de-bonded when the canopy slammed open rev'g to taxiing in wet muddy grass. I will rivet the skirt to the frame as well as sika. I will also repeat the Sika with this canopy re-cut project as I do really like it. I'll likely have to carefully die-grind (scotchbright wheel) off the old Sika in some spots, but I'm mostly cutting down the existing glass.

This is what I plan to do to the canopy
287q5p4.jpg
 
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Going constant speed

I've decided to convert my O-320-B2C to constant speed. There are several thread on it and I think I have a plan for the conversion...

The conversion is covered clearly in Lycoming's Service Instruction 1435. It's a pretty involved process. Also there's a great thread on VAF where someone did exactly what I'm about to do here...


I have purchased a Hartzell 72" propellor used 200hrs on an O-320 RV-4;
Hub: HC-C2YL-1BF
Blade: F8468-12 (72" factory)
It has 7/16" prop bolts, which match my flange lugs.

- Have the crank shop refit the flange dowels to match the new prop
- Have the crank guy swap the covers while he's yellow tagging it (Per Lyc. SI 1435)
- Install the fitting in the neck
- Install the governor pad adapter and gear
- Fabricate or buy the prop oil line
- Open the firewall footwell recess required for a CS RV-4
- Install the governor (I've got a line on several)
- Install a vernier prop control and bracket
 
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It's been while, time for an update

The overhaul was a challenge, but I have it back on the mount, all the parts are on and I'm ready to time the mags and do a final check and turn it over.

So far I've...

- Overhauled the engine
- Swapped fixed pitch for constant speed
- Switched to a Skytec starter for weight
- Fabricated a blue-anodized prop lever
- Repaired a leak in the left fuel tank
- Repaired a lose (finger tight) vent line _inside_ the left tank
- Added a return line to both tanks
- Re-plumbed all fuel lines from the fuel tanks to the valve
- Swapped the stock brass fuel valve for nice positive-lock duplex
- Wired the fuel-level sensors to the G3X and removed the old fuel gauges

nmiv61.jpg


I'm going to Bill Gill look it over once as well. But I plan to put it back and get some hours on it before I do the canopy or the new cowl (which I have).

-Bruce
 
Hey Bruce,

Congrats on making such substantial progress - I'll be looking forward to seeing your -4 back in the air! I remember your -3 from ages ago...

I've just received my -14A tail kit and will be getting underway on it this morning. Can't wait! :)
 
Closer and closer

sf9z81.jpg


I've installed the throttle quadrant with the new prop lever, I built it back in '08 with a three-lever quadrant without the prop lever. The fabricated a replacement and attempted to anodize it blue, that didn't turn out so well, but oh well. I still need to trim the bottom off, I'm leaving it on in case the governor direction needs to be is reversed (but I'm almost certain they are right)

Next up is the canopy refurbishment, I'm going to forgo the total rebuild as I had earlier planned, that will have to wait for another year. For now, I want to install the safety latch, install a gas lift strut with a new mid-cross-brace, re-seal the skirt to the frame (it's come off in a couple spots and just make it cleaner.

-Bruce
 
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