rvtestpilot
Member
It's a good start. The idea is to have 1/4 turn fasteners on the lower corners instead of the key lock and monkey motion.
Noel Simmons
4063664638
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Noel Simmons
4063664638
...how to isolate the carbon fiber from the aluminum.
....And vacuum molding only works if you have a proper mold that will not deflect, inside curves require a very very strong mold!! ....
Did the bonding of the foam reinforcing yesterday. And it turned out really nice. The curve of the door needed to be slightly modified as my quick mold was slightly relaxed. But today the door fits really nice! I need to clean up some edges.
And let me add, there is fiberglass on the surface so the carbon won't corrode the aluminum that has been primed, painted, and clear coated.
And vacuum molding only works if you have a proper mold that will not deflect, inside curves require a very very strong mold!!
This particular door along with airplane will be wrapped
In conclusion: this is the "perfect" and proper size part to make a vacuum mold from. Any takers?
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The usual approach is a ply of ordinary fiberglass to isolate the carbon. Alternate approach is two coats of epoxy primer and two coats of paint, then hope it doesn't wear though.
If aluminum rivets are used, they too must be isolated from the carbon somehow. Minimum is to wet-set in a moisture proof sealant. Proseal might do.
Good luck finding a titanium lock assembly.
This is not a great application for carbon.
This has me concerned for all the places in the RV-10 doors where screw holes are drilled through the carbon-fiber-reinforced portions of the doors for securing door pin blocks, Vans and PlaneAround rack and pinion units, etc. Seems like the cad plating isn't going to fare well in those locations. Do these fasteners need to be inserted wet with neat epoxy or receive some other treatment to prevent galvanic issues down the road, under the paint?
Did the bonding of the foam reinforcing yesterday. And it turned out really nice. The curve of the door needed to be slightly modified as my quick mold was slightly relaxed. But today the door fits really nice! I need to clean up some edges.
And let me add, there is fiberglass on the surface so the carbon won't corrode the aluminum that has been primed, painted, and clear coated.
And vacuum molding only works if you have a proper mold that will not deflect, inside curves require a very very strong mold!!
This particular door along with airplane will be wrapped
In conclusion: this is the "perfect" and proper size part to make a vacuum mold from. Any takers?
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For you composite experts. Standard use of carbon cloth on our planes it to have it impregnated with epoxy resin. Assuming that there is no raw carbon to aluminum contact because of the resin, does this eliminate the corrosion problem?
Carl
Question: Is the fuselage contour in the vicinity of the baggage door the same on the -1 matched-hole fuselage kits as the earlier kits?
This might be a product that HP Aircraft LLC would be interested in developing, but not if there are two different fuselage shapes.
We would also welcome suggestions for alternative latch/lock arrangements.
... someone to volunteer their matched-hole RV-8 fuselage for us to make a mold from.
... Or wait until I am a repeat offender -- which is being contemplated now.
That said it *is* possible to retrofit a specific set of parts from the “new” fuselage kit to the “old” version in this area, and thereby use the “new” baggage door (and several other associated parts) on the original version. The new baggage door is definitely easier to fit than the original version. That’s why I made the swap of the parts on my project. But, you have to use the a specific list of parts in total - you cans just scab parts together randomly. They won’t match up if you do. And for those who are not aware, the original fuselage kits were shipped up u til about 2005-2006 (I’d have to go to scanned records to find out for sure the dates) and since then it’s been the prepunched, updated fuselage kit.
Pre-punched, not necessarily matched hole. FYI. Plenty of matched drilling still happens throughout an RV-8 fuse project.
Greg,
I have been working on a 2001 vintage QB kit I picked up recently. I have been contemplating ordering the new baggage door parts for this kit considering all comments I've seen about how much a pain the old door is to assemble. Is it possible to use the new door parts on this old kit? The original builders number is 81426, and it's QB #934. If so, is there a list of parts necessary to use the new baggage door?
Thanks!
I made the distinction because even the early (pre-2006) fuselage kits are (mostly) pre-punched. I suppose we should just refer to the newer kits as the -1 fuselage, but some may not know what that means either.
If you have not yet installed the top-forward skin (the one the door is cut out of) it might be realistic to tackle this.
Don't let a mouse become a monster in your head.