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Bending trailing edge of rudder / elevators

Djgeib

Active Member
I'm proud to say that I have completed my VS and should finish up the HS in a very short time. As such I have been researching making the bend of the trailing edge of the rudder. Searching the forums, I'm receiving conflicting information as to the size of the trailing edge. Some say use a 1/8 inch dowel, others say use a 1/4 inch dowel for a spacer. I been unable to find any definitive information in the plans. I will search again tonight.

Anyone have information on the proper diameter?
 
Bend

I used a 3/16" but what you may find is the final squeeze needs to be done with a smaller Dowell or none in order to get the two sides to bend enough to touch the forward spar.
I suggest buying one size each from smallest up to 1/4" and work your way down to none.
 
Thanks for the advice. Think I'll do the step down procedure and see how it goes:)

I am coincidentally at or just behind you progress-wise. I would be most appreciative if you could take and post pictures of your progress during the bend process. Bending the metal myself has been one of the more stressful parts of building so far.

Thanks,
 
Bending

The key here is slow. You also need a super stiff brake. Van's plans use 2X6. Believe it or not but they can actually bow. Install as many heavy hinges as you can to keep the boards from bowing. Some builders use the edges of the boards instead for that reason. You want the edge squeezed so the skins lightly touch the ribs with no pillowing out or in between the ribs. A straight edge held fore and aft should lay flat from leading to trailing at any point across the surface. Get as close as you can and stop. Get a second pair of eyes on it. Resist the urge to go one more squeeze.
 
The key here is slow. You also need a super stiff brake. Van's plans use 2X6. Believe it or not but they can actually bow. Install as many heavy hinges as you can to keep the boards from bowing. Some builders use the edges of the boards instead for that reason. You want the edge squeezed so the skins lightly touch the ribs with no pillowing out or in between the ribs. A straight edge held fore and aft should lay flat from leading to trailing at any point across the surface. Get as close as you can and stop. Get a second pair of eyes on it. Resist the urge to go one more squeeze.

Made the brake from two 2x6 boards on edge, with three hinges. I also put the boards through the joiner to make sure the board edges are flat and true.

Carl
 
Built my bending brake today out of 2x8's. Pretty much followed Vans plan in section 5. Picked up dowels in 1/4, 3/16, and 1/8 size. Will work my way down and see how it does. Expect to bend on Monday if all goes well.

Go Falcons!!

i-RRTVCVr
 
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