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  #11  
Old 02-10-2018, 07:39 PM
paul330 paul330 is offline
 
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Location: Mpumalanga, South Africa
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When I fitted the SB plate, I had great difficulty getting the bolt in. I finally realised that the "top hat" had not gone fully down on its stem. A technical tap fixed it.......
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  #12  
Old 02-11-2018, 07:44 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is online now
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 3,286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul330 View Post
When I fitted the SB plate, I had great difficulty getting the bolt in. I finally realised that the "top hat" had not gone fully down on its stem. A technical tap fixed it.......
That technique came in handy for me too. I'd have sworn it was seated, but no.

Thanks for the tip.
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  #13  
Old 05-03-2018, 09:38 AM
MConner MConner is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Snead Island, Florida
Posts: 82
Default Nosewheel leg slop

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paddy View Post
I still had considerable play in the nosegear leg after properly compressing and preloading the elastomer discs. This turned out to be because of the sloppy fit of the VA 143 ans VA144 bushings in the nose gear link and engine mount weldments. I ended up turning some new bushings that fit better but Vans also sells oversize bushings to fix this problem. The VA143 bushing fit was poor enough to make me think the elastomers were loose at first because of the vertical play in the gear leg.
Paddy, I wish I had seen this post before I bought all three bushings new from Vans only to find out they were the same size as the old ones (no wear) There is still vertical slop in the nosegear leg from the loose fitting bushings. This movement adds a pounding effect to the bolt with each landing that is transferred to the weakest link, the welded on bracket that attaches all this to the nosegear leg. It will eventually elongate the holes requiring welding or replacement of the gear. Did someone say that Vans has oversized bushings that actually fit properly? Why would they still use the undersized ones at all?

Mark, new RV-10 owner.
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  #14  
Old 05-03-2018, 09:46 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 7,712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MConner View Post
Paddy, I wish I had seen this post before I bought all three bushings new from Vans only to find out they were the same size as the old ones (no wear) There is still vertical slop in the nosegear leg from the loose fitting bushings. This movement adds a pounding effect to the bolt with each landing that is transferred to the weakest link, the welded on bracket that attaches all this to the nosegear leg. It will eventually elongate the holes requiring welding or replacement of the gear. Did someone say that Vans has oversized bushings that actually fit properly? Why would they still use the undersized ones at all?

Mark, new RV-10 owner.
Do you know for sure that the sockets the bushings go in haven't worn at all?
They should be lubricated occasionally.... maybe yours never have been.
There is also a tolerance to both parts (the socket and the bushing). Add to that a slight amount of wear and you can have what appears to be a lot of play if you take into account the long length of the gear leg.
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  #15  
Old 05-03-2018, 08:39 PM
63robskin 63robskin is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Magnolia, TX
Posts: 3
Default Play in new nose gear

I have play in my nose gear bushings and they have never been down a runway. I am having a friend who owns a machine shop make me bushings with very close tolerance.
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  #16  
Old 05-03-2018, 08:59 PM
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Phil Phil is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Waco, Texas
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Kyle,

Use a ratchet strap between the nose gear and your motor mount or possibly even over the top of the motor (if you have a decent spot to put load on it without damaging anything). With a few cranks on the strap, you can get enough compression to slide the bolt through.

Phil
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  #17  
Old 05-04-2018, 09:28 AM
dhmoose dhmoose is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 322
Default Slop

I just did my condition inspection and have the slop from the VA-144 bushing. For me, it appears to be the pilot side bushing since the play is vertical and to the passenger side. I spoke to Vans about this and they could only give me specs on the minimum and maximum difference between the bushing outer diameter and weldments inner diameter. For reference, here are the numbers so you can check yours against these:

Max difference between OD of bushing and inner is 0.016, minimum of 0.004

Im probably going to order the oversized bushing and have a machine shop turn it down.
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  #18  
Old 05-04-2018, 09:49 AM
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Paddy Paddy is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 161
Default Bushings

I think what we have here is a question of serviceable vs optimal in terms of fit. I would guess that primary reason the original bushings provided with the kit are somewhat undersized is to account for production tolerances in the weldment socket. My observation was that that socket within which the bushing fits isn't perfectly round, some are more round than others and none of them are reamed after welding, so there's always going to be a variance in fit (and wear for that matter) because of that. An undersized bushing will fit them all without having to up the tolerance on the weldment. In my plane, the slop was more than I was comfortable with, so I made my own bushings to improve the fit. There's still clearance for the lubricant interface, but the clunking in the nosegear when lightly loaded is greatly reduced (as is the impulse loading that accompanied the clunking). Incidentally, I only replaced 2 of the 3 bushngs, the 3rd was close enough to leave it alone. For what it's worth, I also replaced some (not all) of the bushings in the flight control linkage because of the same variance in fit.
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  #19  
Old 05-04-2018, 10:07 AM
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Paddy Paddy is offline
 
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Location: Chicago
Posts: 161
Default Ratchet Strap

It has been suggested a number of times to use a ratchet strap to pull the nose gear up to compress the elastomer discs and insert the top cap bolt. This makes sense, but the amount of compression applied can very easily be overdone (ratchet straps can be quite powerful!). Consider that if you want the maximum amount of travel and cushioning that was designed into the system, you'll want to compress the elastomers just enough to eliminate free play and no more. In my build, there was easily be enough compression on the discs with the normal weight of the engine plus a moderate pull down on the prop by a helper to get the bolt in. If there's more force than that required, there might be too many washers in there, especially after installing the elastomer plate doubler from the bulletin... Of course if you don't have a moderately calibrated helper, a strap might be a good option ;-)
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  #20  
Old 05-04-2018, 07:56 PM
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Phil Phil is offline
 
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Location: Waco, Texas
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Dont over think it. Just do it and move on.
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