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  #11  
Old 09-01-2018, 02:15 PM
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scard scard is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N941WR View Post
This applies to the RV-9(A) with a fixed pitch prop only. Other models and configurations will be different.

The -9 with its amazing airfoil, high aspect ratio wing, and slotted flaps has a stunning low stall speed and with a fixed pitch prop, it will pick up speed quickly, if you point the nose down.

With almost 1,000 hours in the -9, I found that when landing it works best if you put in ALL the flaps abeam your touchdown point and trim the plane for 60 knots when heavy (55knots when light) and fly the entire pattern at that speed.
And just for reference, if I use Bill's numbers in my C/S -9, just as I descend below the tree line, I'll be coming down like a ton of bricks in what would not be considered a landing, but a very positive "arrival". (Runway surrounded by trees and houses causes ... with the slightest breeze)
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  #12  
Old 09-01-2018, 08:36 PM
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airguy airguy is offline
 
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Location: Garden City, Tx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scard View Post
And just for reference, if I use Bill's numbers in my C/S -9, just as I descend below the tree line, I'll be coming down like a ton of bricks in what would not be considered a landing, but a very positive "arrival". (Runway surrounded by trees and houses causes ... with the slightest breeze)
Agreed. With the constant speed Whirlwind, I like to drop one notch of flaps at 90 knots on downwind, another at 75 knots turning base, and don't run full flaps until short final, crossing the fence at high 60's at a pretty healthy down angle. With the constant speed prop and full flaps, the 9A will bleed energy like nobodies business with power all the way off. For that reason I usually arrive at about 3' altitude with 15 knots above stall and let it bleed off and settle in. I rarely use 1000' of runway.

Usually I'm full power off at mid-base leg, with lots of altitude to burn and let the flaps/prop dissipate the extra energy. It's hard to have an engine failure screw up your approach if you don't need the engine for the approach in the first place.
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Last edited by airguy : 09-01-2018 at 08:54 PM.
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  #13  
Old 09-02-2018, 02:11 PM
Greg Dillon Greg Dillon is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Upland,California
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RV9A, 0-320, FP Catto-----80 downwind, first 'notch' of flaps,70 on base, flaps 2, 60 on final flaps 3, reduce power to idle, then 55kts over threshold, flare and wait---works for me. I trim for 500 fpm descent when abeam touchdown point.
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  #14  
Old 09-09-2018, 10:52 AM
Tim-NJ Tim-NJ is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: New Jersey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul 5r4 View Post
I've been flying my 7A for 6 years now. I had a cessna 152 for ten years before this and my landings most always consisted of some kind of a bounce or at least a drop to the runway. Once in a blue moon I would eek out a landing a line captain would be proud of.... a perfect squeaker! From the first flight in the RV I could tell things were going to be different. Beyond the obvious reasons, low wing versus high wing, I don't know why but it's incredibly easy to land an RV. More often than not I can squeak it on. Feels good! During transition training which was done in a 6A, I was told to use 80 knots as the approach speed then easing back on final knocking off another few knots. Works well. I usually cross the threshold at about 70 knots. It floats a little but gives me time to ease the nose up for a nice smooth touchdown. I also practice what Bill R. stated above about putting in flaps when abeam the numbers. I don't mess with them again. By the time I'm turning base, I'm trimmed and have nothing to do other than concentrate on the traffic/birds/radio calls and landing. Works well.
Almost exactly my story and technique except I have much less experience. Even though I was never happy with my 152 landings, when I started paying the extra rental $$'s for 172's my landings got much better. I was never sure why and at times had thought about renting a 152 just to see if it was that my skills had improved or it was something with the 152 that I never got right.

Now with a 7A my landings are so much better that it must be something with the plane since the pilot is the same Oh - certainly some/most/all(?) credit goes to the CFI that transitioned me

I should probably reword that last sentence.
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  #15  
Old 09-10-2018, 08:52 AM
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Snowflake Snowflake is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N941WR View Post
With almost 1,000 hours in the -9, I found that when landing it works best if you put in ALL the flaps abeam your touchdown point and trim the plane for 60 knots when heavy (55knots when light) and fly the entire pattern at that speed.

This is different than the typical 10°/10°/10° deployment on each leg of the pattern most of us were taught.
If I were to fly a 60kt circuit i'd have the tower asking me to speed up to accommodate the Cessna traffic behind me...

With manual flap, I find that it's not practical to apply all the flap at once on downwind... The pull on the bar requires too much force to maintain smooth level flight with the other hand. So 1st notch at VFE, 2nd notch on base, and 3rd notch turning final... Each point is ~10kts slower so the forces are reduced. For those with electric flaps, those flap motors must really be working to get everything out all at once even if the pilot never feels it... it would be easier on the airplane to extend in stages.

The exception to this is on a formation arrival, after a break the airspeed is low enough that pulling all flap as I roll wings level on downwind is do-able.
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  #16  
Old 09-10-2018, 10:28 AM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowflake View Post
If I were to fly a 60kt circuit i'd have the tower asking me to speed up to accommodate the Cessna traffic behind me...

With manual flap, I find that it's not practical to apply all the flap at once on downwind... The pull on the bar requires too much force to maintain smooth level flight with the other hand. So 1st notch at VFE, 2nd notch on base, and 3rd notch turning final... Each point is ~10kts slower so the forces are reduced. For those with electric flaps, those flap motors must really be working to get everything out all at once even if the pilot never feels it... it would be easier on the airplane to extend in stages.

The exception to this is on a formation arrival, after a break the airspeed is low enough that pulling all flap as I roll wings level on downwind is do-able.
Which model?
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  #17  
Old 09-10-2018, 11:46 AM
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Raymo Raymo is offline
 
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I cut my stick for panel clearance, plus a little but fly with my arm rested on my left leg and fly with fingertips at the bottom of the Infinity grip. Takeoffs and landings are full grip.

Anyone I take up and let fly over-controls until I have them rest their arm and fly by fingertips.

I rarely need to touch the trim in my -7A with the light controls. The Dynon AP with button panel takes care of in-flight trim.
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  #18  
Old 09-10-2018, 12:08 PM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
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Keeping with the topic “tips for new RV pilots”.
Relax.
Keep things simple.
Get training from a qualified, experienced, professional known for RV’s if you’re struggling.

A relaxed grip using small muscles will yield better control and less overcontrol. Sounds simple but we are “human animals” and naturally tense up under stress. Talk to yourself; “breath, relax, wiggle feet...” . It takes very little strength to command control of an RV.

Keep it simple. Mike Seager teaches half flaps abeam, full flaps base. As you gain skill and confidence, you can amend your technique. If your field or conditions require more finesse, get some training or practice in a more forgiving environment.

Know your limits. Test them safely to gain more skill. Get qualified training if you’re struggling.

There are a lot of fine comments posted here, but I think the intent of the thread is to help new RV pilots, not too discuss the thousands of variants in how to fly an RV. A beginning golfer, to keep it simple, takes the same club to hit a given yardage. A good golfer can hit several different clubs depending on the shot they want to hit for that same yardage. Keep it simple.
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  #19  
Old 09-10-2018, 01:10 PM
Tom Martin Tom Martin is online now
 
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treat every landing as if it was a go around so that you are ready if you actually have to go around.
If you have trouble with bouncing, try levelling off over the runway and trying NOT to let the wheels touch for as long as possible. This will help you to get an idea of what your correct flair speed really should be. Try it with different weights and remember that temperature makes a huge difference.
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  #20  
Old 09-11-2018, 08:10 AM
DBone DBone is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: McKinney, TX (T31)
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Default stick length

Quote:
Originally Posted by N941WR View Post
Hold the stick at the top and when building, do not shorten the stick.
Maybe stick length is the new primer... "Cut the stick" is advice I give to every builder I talk to. I can't stand flying other RV's with the long stick. With my hand on the grip for takeoff and landing, I feel like my arm is floating in space so it's harder to make fine adjustments. My stick is cut down so that with my hand on the grip, my forearm is resting on my thigh. Because of that, I can make tiny corrections with my wrist (small muscles). I'm interested to see what Van said about it. Anybody have that article?
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