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Last chance to tell me I'm an idiot not to prime...

OldAndBold

Well Known Member
OK, the instructions say that I can prime or not prime, and that the long term condition of the airplane has more to do with maintainance than with priming. Since it is very inconvenient to prime the HS parts now, I am choosing not to. I am about to start riveting the HS. Last chance to tell me to prime before I do. (Yes, I did prime the pure aluminum angle bars.)

I have a pneumatic rivet squeezer and I am not afraid to use it...

Comments???

John Babrick
 
It'll fall out of the sky :rolleyes:

Also, don't build an -A because you'll flip it and you had better have at least 3 avionics master switches or every piece of electrical equipment within 20 feet will explode when you start the engine. Finally, if you run LOP your engine will melt into a puddle and the ozone layer will open up right above your plane and fry your brain.

:D

edit: but you could shoot some primer over any nasty scratches you're had to sand out if you felt like it :)
 
Last edited:
Lots of unprimed 50 & 60 year old Cessnas flying around. And the 6061 aluminum angle in them isn't primed either. My bi-plane is entirely 6061 and won't be primed except where the fabric will be attached.
 
Oh my God!!! Was I supposed to prime? :D Anyway, I did prime the bars and the steps. Is that OK everyone? :p

Roberta
 
Stimpy, you eeeedeeeeot!

Well, you asked.

Jekyll

PS: We're all in this together, I support your choice 1 way or the other.
 
I agree with Roberta. It is always cheaper to get primed BEFORE you hit the bars!

:p

Seriously, I primed because out here on Cape Cod, corrosion is a fact of life. If you are in one of those square states (westuh Worcester, as we say here... an inside joke if you have ever lived around here) it really doesn't matter much.

I personally think that alodining is a bit over the top, but priming is a reasonable affair.

:cool: CJ
 
I live on the east coast of Canada where all the primed ,painted and galvanized autos turn to flakes in three years after exposure to road salt and the salty Maritime air. The ONLY thing that will prevent this from happening is corrosion proofing. It can be done a multitude of ways ,peanut oil if you wish (only kidding) but is usually done with agents that are moisture excluding and have some creeping agent in them so the stuff migrates to every little corner of the vehicle.You may have guessed that I didn't prime either but I am going to spray it with something like ACF-50. after it is painted.
 
robertahegy said:
Oh my God!!! Was I supposed to prime? :D Anyway, I did prime the bars and the steps. Is that OK everyone? :p

Roberta

NO!!! This is unacceptable! Please refer back to #2 and re-start your project from the beginning. I'll expect a full report on my desk in the morning!
 
corrosion

Try this product. Cor-Ban 23 or Cor-Ban 22 made by Zip Chemicals. You can read the details on the Zip chemicals web site. We used it at the airlines and the large passenger jet manufacture sprays it on the new A/C. Works great.
 
First permanently assembled piece in two years!

OK, I have finally gotten something assembled after having this 7A QB kit sit in various storage locations for the last two years. I have finally riveted the rear HS spar. Only one oops to fix. I am sure glad I got that pneumatic squeezer though.

--JCB
 
During my project, I had access to a metallurgical laboratory and decided to run a series of ASTM accelerated salt spray tests on:
1.Raw aluminum
2.Clad aluminum
3.Clad aluminum + alodine
4 Clad aluminum + alodine + zinc chromate
Without getting too deep, I would suggest that the above configurations will yield an airframe life approximating:
1. 25 years
2. 50 years
3. 100 years
4. 200 years
If you've going to mount your RV on floats and frequent salt water, go with number 4, otherwise chromate the raw aluminum and go with an anticorrosive treatment every 5-10 years - probably all you really need.
 
Captain_John said:
in one of those square states (westuh Worcester, as we say here... an inside joke if you have ever lived around here) it really doesn't matter much.
CJ

Cracked up at the square bit. We have mostly square states in OZ, except where the ocean interferes.

I primed.
4 litres of each of two pot. probably 10KG.
Probably why I have the Worlds heaviest RV.... besides tip tanks, leather, sound proofing, onboard head etc. Still, she IS very comfortable and can get off the ground.... on a cool day.

But, I do keep her within 1/2 mile of King Neptune's domain.
I have seen Magnesium bits on a Porter corroding before my eyes.
Beware the sea breeze.
Pete.
 
terrykohler said:
During my project, I had access to a metallurgical laboratory and decided to run a series of ASTM accelerated salt spray tests on:
1.Raw aluminum
2.Clad aluminum
3.Clad aluminum + alodine
4 Clad aluminum + alodine + zinc chromate
Without getting too deep, I would suggest that the above configurations will yield an airframe life approximating:
1. 25 years
2. 50 years
3. 100 years
4. 200 years
If you've going to mount your RV on floats and frequent salt water, go with number 4, otherwise chromate the raw aluminum and go with an anticorrosive treatment every 5-10 years - probably all you really need.

Well, I guess mine will be good for 200 plus years. I also prosealed every two pieces of metal together.

Roberta since you didn't do it correctly the first time you need to give your plane to Ron and he will gladly give you his kit so you can do it right the second time!
 
Captain_John said:
I (westuh Worcester, as we say here... an inside joke if you have ever lived around here) it really doesn't matter much.

I personally think that alodining is a bit over the top, but priming is a reasonable affair.

:cool: CJ
I think you meant "westuh wistuh":p
 
Bob Collins said:
I think you meant "westuh wistuh":p

No, "westuh woostuh".

I lived east in Nashua.

Now for a test for the rest of you: What is the correct pronunciation of "Billerica" ?


JCB
 
I stand corrected...

My wife (born in Concord Mass) says it's "Wistuh".

On my first day of living in Nashua NH, I heard the following over the supermarket loudspeakers:

"Shoppahs! Toonah in watuh, juss fifty cents a can! Only at yuh friendly naybahood Mahket Basket - where you get maw faw yuh dalluh!"

and of course leaving the supermarket I passed by the McDonalds that was selling (no joke) McLobster sandwiches.
 
Yup! Those McLobstah's were a real BAHGIN! It was REAL LOBSTER MEAT!

REALLY!!!

I haven't seen them in a bit, but I seem to recall them being $3.99!

Not bad!

:D CJ
 
Well, I started out priming the inside of the HS but I decided to just prime rivet lines.

I think that's plenty.

Of course I live in a high, dry desert climate and the plane will be in hanger.

Saves time, money & weight not to prime. My 28 yo Chevy truck which I purchased new has NO rust.

Now I'm building wings.

Ain't this fun?!

Dave
 
OldAndBold said:
OK, the instructions say that I can prime or not prime, and that the long term condition of the airplane has more to do with maintainance than with priming. Since it is very inconvenient to prime the HS parts now, I am choosing not to. I am about to start riveting the HS. Last chance to tell me to prime before I do. (Yes, I did prime the pure aluminum angle bars.)

I have a pneumatic rivet squeezer and I am not afraid to use it...

Comments???

John Babrick
John:

I am not going to tell you that you are an idiot or that you should or should not prime.

If you want someone to tell you that you are an idiot, turn your computer volume up and click this link.

If the moderator's feel that this post in inapproprate, PLEASE delete it.
 
$3.99?

Captain_John said:
Yup! Those McLobstah's were a real BAHGIN! It was REAL LOBSTER MEAT!

REALLY!!!

I haven't seen them in a bit, but I seem to recall them being $3.99!

Not bad!

:D CJ

$3.99 ? It's a pissa !
 
Wicked pissa

Whada ya retaaded, if ya don't prime ya plane it'll fall apaaat tha fisrt time ya staat it.

I'm not primin my plane, cuz I'm wicked faa fram Bastan, where I'm from, and there ain't no wataa any whenre nears here... so I'll be ok, you on the otha hand, youre in deep trouble.


Peta
Livin' in Oregon of all places and missin' them bums tha Red Saxs.
 
OldAndBold said:
No, "westuh woostuh".

I lived east in Nashua.

Now for a test for the rest of you: What is the correct pronunciation of "Billerica" ?


JCB


That would be Billrika and Hayvril :)

My favorite is there's a radio station that services Worcester and Licester, or as they say: "The woostuh listuh area"
 
Resale value goes up a bit with priming. Thats my only motivation for the little priming I do. Also the contrast looks better in pictures...


Ohhh, that piece is shiny, that one is green... ohhhhh.... :D
 
....the war continues - with a draw.....

John,

All I plan to do is prime those areas where metal makes contact with metal (may have missed a few spots too) because of what was said earlier about the Cessnas. If I had plans to keep the airplane in a shade port at an airport adjacent to the ocean - it would be covered.

I choose not to add the extra weight and my resale value will drop by a little. I'll take the weight savings now!
 
more primer wars......

i primed most of the empennage.

then i switched to just the rivet lines and the unclad parts.

had a tech counselor visit the other day, and he pointed out something i hadn't considered before ------ he recommended shooting a little prime in the bottom of the fuse -- incase water collects (on a x/c, tied out, and it rains). also recommended drain holes. sounds pretty smart to me.

so i think i'll go back and prime the (inside) bottom of my fuse and drill a hole or three.

john
 
More holes

John,
While you're drilling holes, consider the skins under the wings that cover the gap (rivetted to the fuselage). In an A model RV, water can enter from the top side of the wing at the root in the rain and puddle there and seep into the fuselage, UNLESS there's a small hole to allow water to drain out. ;)

Regards,
 
How Big?

pierre smith said:
John,
While you're drilling holes, consider the skins under the wings that cover the gap (rivetted to the fuselage). In an A model RV, water can enter from the top side of the wing at the root in the rain and puddle there and seep into the fuselage, UNLESS there's a small hole to allow water to drain out. ;)

Regards,

Yes, but what diameter? Consider meniscus and contaminants.
 
terrykohler said:
...series of ASTM accelerated salt spray tests...

Does that equate to a marine environment then? Are the numbers different for dry environments (or wet but not salty)?

That salt can be a wicked pissah..
 
Primed Humour.

I suggested to a mate, Graham, that he might find this post amusing and interesting. It is definitely both to me.
Graham was a metalurgist with Alcoa for 32 years- In OZ.

Pete.
------------------------------
Yes, yes ... very amusing.

What the 'simple' corrosion tests don't tell you is what happens in a
situation where you have part protection and no protection eg. a scratch through the paint & coatings.
There is an effect called the 'poultice' effect, which can lead to intense
localised corrosion.
Graham.
 
Try this product. Cor-Ban 23 or Cor-Ban 22 made by Zip Chemicals. You can read the details on the Zip chemicals web site. We used it at the airlines and the large passenger jet manufacture sprays it on the new A/C. Works great.

Does anyone else have experience with the different Cor-Ban products from Zip chem? I am thinking of going this route but I am not sure if I want the 22,23 or 35. I talked to someone in sales and all they could do was tell me what the website says. My call to their engineering has gone unreplied.

In other news, I'm still not 100% sure what the difference between it and a more normal primer.
 
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