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Newbie Question

marriner

Member
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Hi All,

Im just starting the RV-14 emp kit. As I go through the plans I find myself being confident and a bit overwhelmend all at the same time.

There's never a stupid question right??

See the pic.....
Directions say to Dimple Fulsh Aft AN426 rivets in those 6 spots. That means the "flush" is on the OTHER side of the dipted VS-702 & VS-01401 right? The AN470 rivets have the dome head on the depicted side - not the other side - right?

Thanks!
M
 
I don't have -14 plans, but the "dimple flush" side will mate up with some other component, and the flush heads will be covered by another piece. Take a look at the plans and see where this piece goes, and the the flush side should be clear. This is a good practice in general .. take a look at a part and see where it goes in the assembly before riveting/drilling, either on the current drawing our one at a higher level of assembly. Though it may take a bit of learning the drawings, it is generally easy to cross check and confirm you assumptions are correct (and for those of us, ahem, who mess it up from time to time, there's always Van's web store)

FWIW, this looks like the forward VS spar attach point ... the design is different than the -7, but look in the Empennage Attach drawing for where this part mates with the tail cone structure
 
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Marriner - DON'T feel sheepish about that one, I had the exact same question. I found that other sections of the plans call out the flush side in a clearer manner. The way I figured it out was to look forward in the plans to how the piece was mounted. That picture makes it obvious what side should be flush (there is lots of times that looking ahead can help answer a question).

With that in mind; something along similar lines that didn't sink in for me early on was:

The shop head of universal rivets should always be on the thicker side of two pieces. This guideline can be broken if 1) the plans call it out (which they do in a bunch of places like the HStab) or 2) if it would just look better. The tradeoff is that if the sheet is under the stop head is quite thing, it tends to deform as the rivet shop head is formed. I made this mistake in a bunch of places early on because I didn't ask myself which way it should go. nothing that required new parts, it just was annoying looking. Its just one of those things you should ask yourself before you set any rivets; the answer is almost always really clear.
 
That question has come up more than once. I found another good resource.. ?HAL Pilot? (search under members names) has a drop box folder with copies of the prints with questions, annotations, and things to look out for ?gotchas?. Kind of a collaboration from lots of folks.. Great resource that also allows you to look ahead into future kits to see how things fit up later.

Marriner - sent you a pm as well. I am also in GA - south Ga - Douglas.
 
Flush heads are often used when another piece overlays the rivets. I think they are trying to show another piece with the dashed outline. If it was on the same side it wouldn't be dashed. Like the VS-01401. Just a general mechanical drawing note.
 
in relation to building, I learned a new term and that is situational awareness.
It is good to read ahead and familiarize yourself as how things get connected together. In case of this section, this is the part that gets connected to the front spar of the HS. This section need to be flush riveted so it can sit flat on the back side of the spar.

Hope this helps.
 
Welcome!!

Congrats on starting your build. Don't ever hesitate to ask ANY question, because someone else has/had the same question...and solved it! With some help.
Ain't this a GREAT forum?!:D
 
I think they are trying to show another piece with the dashed outline.

In the -14 manual, a dashed outline like that is merely a lasso related to the note - in this case it shows the group of rivets that should be flush. Of course, confusingly, Vans also uses the same dashed line to indicate other parts and their relation to the parts in question - sometimes the parts are on top and sometimes they are not. As an example have a look at page 10-18

cwKwlq108SPRF0ZvBjr77MeXMzXEKvyHjAUQD4EAgJal0OUIR2kDYGbowP8Q1k83AJoqORIMu4xNQDIs5RCYNoSIbvC2As6uHXAv35saR5pVhIr3EvDkdmjFOHW0N0rDIFB3Defz8IsTF-TrOTDMXU79EkB0p_SvJr7jV0JmezHT_ybWuKGrnipWD3A9VXDw0WKA2ZI5A75-pFtJjrfWdEuvPFwrv-RV_BSTNnhbNmdEdMf193kmR_hnWLI8gj_dlg70_oJqd9SNI9VEi2pxCV8w3EsWDMNpS3RrgQ0YXaQD0-pGJrS-x0eBlZ3cvOTCFgKEPF3LnI3Ant_zz2eng0oo25M4Ud_BS72kloZSCi9FDfyz4OmzeJ8tdPr0cQzBma18AqYOeO6frTmUg27oR5Dmw25ZCgBgVB-DSzJSoJjFRKNNWmKehehr6x72QxIQ7jV5hSoeSze89n-z9Y3Xm3alVbRbOuXcRPmJlxNa4ct34aVK6IbbJeSJhHXpczfpPfj-zQzhjcRv6zOHf4o_yELFR3gqJGq7wdPPmzFg2uqUG0eotdLl5j5eGL60kNiw9jVr7nQdvUVZmlxRcfVZ7rUcG7sLCtdFtqbfxETo0XRotwnOEqsHOjN1kMTX1r47DoyhsyA1EYj9Cs6Js7dPrpCXyRYfChAY=w620-h1102-no
 
A clue is to always check what does the tip of the arrow (from the ?Dimple...?
instruction) touch. This is old school mechanical drafting as a way for the draftman to convey to the ?builder? what the engineer has in mind.
In this case the tip touches the broken line that identifies ?which six? holes.
Elsewhere tips identify parts, location, areas, etc. If an arrow tip touches a line,
it means something very specific. The builder must then determine why, what purpose.
Normally easy, but never rushed.

Off topic but the original question was answered.

R
 
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