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  #21  
Old 08-28-2018, 09:19 AM
rleffler's Avatar
rleffler rleffler is offline
 
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I went with third party trim brackets.



When I was building there were a handful of failures. I assume by now Van's has solved that problem.

I think the billet aluminum pieces look nicer than a wielded nut.
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  #22  
Old 08-28-2018, 09:31 AM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rleffler View Post
I went with third party trim brackets.



When I was building there were a handful of failures. I assume by now Van's has solved that problem.

I think the billet aluminum pieces look nicer than a wielded nut.
Me too-------I was able to get single wing nut plates riveted to these, dimple the cover plate, counter sink the bracket and use flat head screws to mount. It makes it a lot easier to install/remove the trim cover when it all gets put together.
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Mike Starkey
VAF 909

Rv-10, N210LM.

Flying as of 12/4/2010

Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011

Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.

"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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  #23  
Old 08-28-2018, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rleffler View Post
I went with third party trim brackets.



When I was building there were a handful of failures. I assume by now Van's has solved that problem.

I think the billet aluminum pieces look nicer than a wielded nut.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike S View Post
Me too-------I was able to get single wing nut plates riveted to these, dimple the cover plate, counter sink the bracket and use flat head screws to mount. It makes it a lot easier to install/remove the trim cover when it all gets put together.
I am on the fence about those. Seems now Van's has improved the welding of the nut to the plate. I was gonna wait and see what they look like before purchasing the aftermarket billet ones.

Regardless, I plan to install nutplates as I have read many reports that it makes it much easier to deal with down the road.
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Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
Check out my RV-10 builder's BLOG
RV-10, #41942, N?????, Working on Emp/Tail Cone
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
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  #24  
Old 08-28-2018, 03:08 PM
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MarkW MarkW is offline
 
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Location: Edgewater, FL. KSFB
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Hey Brian,
I am jealous.
I wanted to build a 10 before deciding it was too much for a first build. Money and time.
Building the RV-9 was a very big accomplishment in life but I am not sure I have it in me to do it again.
Have fun.
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  #25  
Old 08-28-2018, 08:26 PM
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Mark,

Tonight I got into the groove and it felt great to be building again!

Page 6-2 is done!

I am really digging the new style (new to me anyway) instructions and plans. My how spoiled we have become!
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Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
Check out my RV-10 builder's BLOG
RV-10, #41942, N?????, Working on Emp/Tail Cone
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
Like EAA Chapter 1494 on Facebook

Last edited by Brantel : 08-28-2018 at 08:47 PM.
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  #26  
Old 08-29-2018, 03:42 PM
asw20c asw20c is offline
 
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Location: Edgewood, NM
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Brian,
If I were you, I would have asked Van's to send replacements for every part that was damaged. You aren't saving them any money by trying to work the damage out yourself; they simply collect from the shipping company. You might regret it later too if the damage is visible through the paint job.
Van's makes it VERY easy to replace parts damaged in shipping. Usually it is simply a matter of taking and emailing a few photos, and a phone call. They take it from there and ship you your new part(s), and then collect from the shipping company. You will usually have your new part(s) in less than a week. Frankly, I think this is part of their revenue model, that they get to sell more parts due to the ham-fisted way that these shippers treat their cargo.
You're investing a HUGE amount of labor and dollars into your project. If it were me, I'd insist on starting with pristine parts; not damaged and repaired.
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  #27  
Old 08-29-2018, 04:13 PM
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Clay,

Thanks and normally I would do as you said. I had tons of damaged parts back on the RV7 build. This one however was just too easy to fix. I doubt anyone could even find it on the skin.
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Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
Check out my RV-10 builder's BLOG
RV-10, #41942, N?????, Working on Emp/Tail Cone
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
Like EAA Chapter 1494 on Facebook
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  #28  
Old 09-10-2018, 08:52 AM
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Default Back at it after the family vacation!

A few updates to my build blog have been posted. Ready to prime the vertical stabilizer parts tonight!
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Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
Check out my RV-10 builder's BLOG
RV-10, #41942, N?????, Working on Emp/Tail Cone
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
Like EAA Chapter 1494 on Facebook
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  #29  
Old 09-11-2018, 09:14 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brantel View Post
A few updates to my build blog have been posted. Ready to prime the vertical stabilizer parts tonight!
Hi Brian,
I noticed on your blog you mentioning your countersink depth of .012-.015" deeper than flush compared to Van's recommended of .007 deeper.

The .007 deeper is based on detailed analysis of riveted joints after sectioning them, polishing them, and inspecting under magnification.

The error that people make by working to a depth that allows the skin to lay 100% flush is that they forget that on the the cross section shape of the dimple has a small radius where the skin is reformed to make the dimple, but the machine counter sink has a sharp corner. It is the interference of this radius on the sharp corner that you are compensating for in order to get the skin to lay 100 % flush. Doing so results in a gap between the sides of the dimple and the countersink that is clearly visible in the sectioning tests I mentioned.

The finished appearance as far as how it looks on the exterior between the two countersink depths is indistinguishable, but the long term integrity could be compromised which is why Van's recommends no more than .007 deeper for dimples into countersinks.
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  #30  
Old 09-15-2018, 09:41 PM
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Brantel Brantel is online now
 
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Default VS done (less fairings)

The VS is done (less fairings) and I am on to the rudder!



Lots more in my build blog!
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Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
Check out my RV-10 builder's BLOG
RV-10, #41942, N?????, Working on Emp/Tail Cone
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
Like EAA Chapter 1494 on Facebook
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