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Pneumatic pop rivet gun

shimuneka

Member
So, I know there are a lot of views on what type of gun to get and where to get it from, but my question is what size gun do I need? I intend to buy mine from Harbor Freight to save the money, but should I get the 1/4" or the 3/16" gun? Thanks
 
You'll want the smaller nose pieces, so I think the 3/16" is what you want.

I can confirm that the 1/4" one will not pull the smaller rivets--I'll need to make new nose pieces for the one I bought without thinking. Thankfully I don't have many pull rivets to set...

Edited to add that it's not the nose piece that is the problem with the 1/4" riveter, but the jaws don't grip the smaller diameter mandrels properly...
 
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I would probably up a grade if you are doing an RV12, there are a lot of rivets to pull and the cheaper guns need constant fiddling and clearing. Ask us how we know.....

I would at least go up to Northern Tools - better Chinese carp :rolleyes:

Once you have it, pay attention to filling instructions, you may also consider taking the smallest die and drilling it out to match the LP4-3 mandrel size so it is a nice snug fit. Then polish the nose of the die on a unitized wheel or similar so it is nice and smooth - it makes a difference to the finish on the head.

It may take a while to 'break in' - it may jam a bit, don't bother with the catcher at the back - useless. Be prepared to take a while getting it set up and then it will be trouble free. A squirt of WD40 down the nozzle ever other week helps as well.

The last thing you want, when faced with a loaded wing or fuselage is a sticky gun :D
 
Rivet gun

I bought a Taylor Pneumatic 3/16" at Oshkosh a few years ago after going through a harbor freight one and a more expensive home depot tool. I DO NOT regret spending the extra $$$. Nothing more frustrating than constantly having to do multiple pulls or clearing jams. Will also work for the few places you need to do structural (cherry max) rivets.

I also bought a tool balancer, an overhead reel that takes the extra weight of a heavier gun. What a difference when doing the wings and fuselage.

Good Luck
 
Harber Freight rivet gun

mak shure you get 2 rivet guns, one for each size rivet. saves a lot of time.
 
Cleo plyers

One item that is a must is a Cleo plyers with light weight hoses, saves on the hands.
 
Go with the Taylor gun. Built a Sonex with the HF gun and had to stop about every 100 rivets or so to clean and adjust,never mind it spewing fluid all over too. Built the -12 with the Taylor and NEVER had a problem. Well worth the extra cash.
 
My Harbor Frieght rivet puller has pulled an estimated 35,000 rivets without any failures. A bit hard to complain about it.
 
Way back when - -

I already owned a H F 3/16" gun. Got a Taylor with tool kit. It was nice to have one set up for both size rivets. A cheap H F gun saves time. I have had it for maybe 20 years. Still works well.
 
No argument that the more expensive guns are nice tools. But the H-F 3/16 gun was adequate to build my Fokker D.VII replica which is a riveted tube-n-gusset airframe. The key to getting good service from the H-F gun is to carefully adjust the pulling mechanism. This is not a difficult operation but makes the difference between operating smoothly or being frustrated. I agree that two of these inexpensive guns would be a nice combination.

D7_4-14-2015-web.jpg
 
No argument that the more expensive guns are nice tools. But the H-F 3/16 gun was adequate to build my Fokker D.VII replica which is a riveted tube-n-gusset airframe. The key to getting good service from the H-F gun is to carefully adjust the pulling mechanism.

Sam,

Is there a guide on how to adjust the mechanism? Adjusting mine has never crossed my mind.
 
My third HF gun has performed without a problem. The first two went back to HF and were immediately replaced.

Now, if I'd have picked up the third one first..............:D
 
Sam,

Is there a guide on how to adjust the mechanism? Adjusting mine has never crossed my mind.

Kyle,

Here is a photo showing the inside of the H-F gun:

rivet-gun.jpg


The position of the black collet on the threaded shaft determines how tightly the rivet nail will be gripped. The lock nut can be loosened to adjust the grip. This is a very fine adjustment, too tight and the nail won't be released, too loose and it might take more than one pull to set the rivet. The collet needs to be adjusted in small increments until the rivet is set smoothly and the nail released. This is also a good time to clean and lightly lube this assembly.
 
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Oil spraying out of river puller on pull

I got the Chief from harbor freight, filled it with hydraulic oil, and when I pull a rivet it blasts oil all over my part. Anyone know why this might be happening?
 
I got the Chief from harbor freight, filled it with hydraulic oil, and when I pull a rivet it blasts oil all over my part. Anyone know why this might be happening?

When you say “filled it”, what do you mean? How much oil? I’ll be honest - aside from lubing the jaws, I never put any oil in my HF, or two Taylor guns, and have built two pulled-rivet aircraft with them….
 
When you say “filled it”, what do you mean? How much oil? I’ll be honest - aside from lubing the jaws, I never put any oil in my HF, or two Taylor guns, and have built two pulled-rivet aircraft with them….

I agree.
The ones from Harbor Freight come ready to use (we bought quite a few during One Week Wonder and slammed them into service as they came out of the box).
 
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