Wingtip hardware

Considering all the lights and antennas in my wingtips I decided to attach them and the wingtip light covers using platenuts and screws.
I know someone on this forum posted a thread listing the hardware that needed to be ordered. I seem to remember the thread also listed an alternate screw that would clean up the install a bit.
The construction guide states that platenuts can be riveted directly to the fiberglass. Has anyone used a backing strip of alum with the platenuts? Working on the horz stab's tips leads me to believe that it would be a good idea.
Can anyone point me to that thread or offer comment? My attempts at searching for it have failed.

Thanks.

Cleaveland sells a kit that has the hardware in it:

http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/products.asp?dept=115

T.

I've heard more complaints than compliments from people who used #4 screws on their wing tips. My 2 cents? Just stick with the plans (#6 screws and nutplates) and you won't go wrong...

Oh, and the backing strip is worthless. If the wing tip flange is gonna crack at the rivets, it's gonna crack whether the rivets go through fiberglass+alum or just fiberglass. Now if you only rivet the nutplates to the backing strip, that I can see doing. But to me it's more work for very little gain. I mean, how many RVs are flying out there with no backing strips, doing loops & rolls all day long? My 2 cents? Don't waste your time.

KISS and get it in the air.

I have had good luck with #4 screws on my RV-6 and am installing them on the RV-8 I am building. I bond the spring steel nuts with a couple of layers of fiberglass (one below speed nut and one above) using a #4 screw to hold it all in place while it cures. Then when cure complete, remove the screws and countersing the flush side (using a dremel cutting stone and not a machine countersink tool so I don't destroy one of my good cutters) It seems to work well, and the speed nuts are inexpensive and easily repaired/replaced if they strip. Although I have not had one strip on me.

No issues with the Cleveland kit. I bonded a piece of .025 to the glass with epoxy as backing.
When installing the screws, I used a q-tip saturated with a light machine oil and brushed a small amount on the screw threads.
I heard the same thing from many different people that Dan did. However, I also heard from folks who did it right, and they have no issues. I don't think it violates the KISS principle. Just a few more screws and nicer appearance.

dan said:

I've heard more complaints than compliments from people who used #4 screws on their wing tips. My 2 cents? Just stick with the plans (#6 screws and nutplates) and you won't go wrong...

Click to expand...

Agree. I have the #4 screw kit and they are a pain. End up damaging Philips recess on half dozen every time. I even use the bit that came with the kit and boelube on the threads.

dan said:

Oh, and the backing strip is worthless. If the wing tip flange is gonna crack at the rivets, it's gonna crack whether the rivets go through fiberglass+alum or just fiberglass. Now if you only rivet the nutplates to the backing strip, that I can see doing. But to me it's more work for very little gain. I mean, how many RVs are flying out there with no backing strips, doing loops & rolls all day long? My 2 cents? Don't waste your time.

Click to expand...

Agree and disagree. I used AL strips and riveted plate nuts to the strip then bonded the strips to fiberglass with proseal. Worked great, less likely to crack, and I like it but, probably not worth it.

dan said:

KISS and get it in the air.

Click to expand...

Big Agree

NAS514 screws

Tougher than most 4-40 counter sunk screws for wing tips.
get a new #1 phillips bit.

Wingtip attach

We used the Cleveland #4's on my RV-8 tips and like them very much. So did Dennis Milsap. All the screws have been in and out a second time with no problems. Will try to follow up in a year...