Looking for tips on how other builders made the 15 degree bend in the E-919. Not sure how to set things up to get a uniform bend across the entire length. Also the instructions just said mark it along the E-920 spar and then remove the spar and bend. It almost seems it would be easier to bend it with the spar clecoed in? Thoughts or tips? Thanks
Van's Air Force
Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.
RV-10 Trim Tab Bend
- Thread starter Blizzard
- Start date
I used a piece of the 3/4? from the sides of the crate and ran the table saw down one edge at the correct depth. Slipped it over and pushed down against the workbench to make the bend. I think you?ll get a better bend removed. The spar isn?t a crisp edge to bend against.
I would also recommend priming before bending the trailing edge. It gets pretty tight in there once it?s bent.
I would also recommend priming before bending the trailing edge. It gets pretty tight in there once it?s bent.
Sounds like a great excuse to get a table saw. Like I really need an excuse to buy another tool! LOL Primed most of the elevator parts before I started the section. worked out good. Primed the inside of the skins and trim tabs early on.....and then read ahead about masking off the areas for the ribs to be bonded...LOL. Oh well...had to sand them anyway in prep for the bonding. Was the table saw kerf width ok for the thickness of the skin to be bent? Thanks for the tip. I'm off to Lowes aviation tool section for a new saw!
Plummit
Well Known Member
Too bad you aren't closer. I have a Craftsman table saw that's FREE! Just pick it up in Long Beach. Oh and make a donation to D/R too.
-Marc
Kerf is fine yeah. Most table saw blades are around 1/8? or so wide. It?s a bit loose but it works better than using the flat pliers. (I did it both ways and the piece of wood did far better.)
You can cut a piece about 6? or so long and do the same thing to do the edge break on the overlap like on riveted trailing edges. You just need to relieve the inside corners a bit so you don?t get a crease.
A table saw with a cross cut sled is pretty darn handy to have. You can outfit a whole shop with cabinets with that setup. The stock blade is junk that comes with them. It?s worth spending the $30 to get a Marples or Diablo combination blade (50t I think?).
Oh and depending on what you buy you may be able back rivet on the saw as well if the table is heavy and smooth enough.
You can cut a piece about 6? or so long and do the same thing to do the edge break on the overlap like on riveted trailing edges. You just need to relieve the inside corners a bit so you don?t get a crease.
A table saw with a cross cut sled is pretty darn handy to have. You can outfit a whole shop with cabinets with that setup. The stock blade is junk that comes with them. It?s worth spending the $30 to get a Marples or Diablo combination blade (50t I think?).
Oh and depending on what you buy you may be able back rivet on the saw as well if the table is heavy and smooth enough.
