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  #11  
Old 11-05-2015, 10:32 AM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AviatorJ View Post
That is the process I used, except instead of a week, let the proseal and 3M tape sit for 3 days. I got my rudder down to take a look at that edge, it looks the same as my elevator and almost seems like instead of 3-3.5 rivets I should use longer ones... but per the Vans construction manual it states don't be tempted to do that.

I'll leave it for now until a Tech Counselor can take a look. Maybe the 10's just don't flatten out like on the 7. And I agree your work is fantastic.
Thanks
I just checked out your blog. Parts like very nice. Blog is easy to navigate too.
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  #12  
Old 11-05-2015, 03:20 PM
AviatorJ AviatorJ is offline
 
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Thanks I appreciate that. They're far from perfect but my hope is structurally everything is on point, the rest can get covered up with paint.
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  #13  
Old 04-16-2016, 09:34 AM
AdamB AdamB is offline
 
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On my practice piece, I used the back rivet and mushroom set method.
Thinking I might use my pneumatic squeezer to partially set the rivets and finish with the mushroom set (possibly a flush die in a C-frame rivet set)

Maybe this will become more obvious as I do it, but with partially setting the rivets in alternating directions, doesn't that leave small bumps every other hole that interferes with keeping the back rivet plate flush to the skin on the rivet I'm trying to fully set??
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  #14  
Old 04-16-2016, 09:59 AM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Default Double flush

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamB View Post
On my practice piece, I used the back rivet and mushroom set method.
Thinking I might use my pneumatic squeezer to partially set the rivets and finish with the mushroom set (possibly a flush die in a C-frame rivet set)

Maybe this will become more obvious as I do it, but with partially setting the rivets in alternating directions, doesn't that leave small bumps every other hole that interferes with keeping the back rivet plate flush to the skin on the rivet I'm trying to fully set??
If you have rivets all inserted fom the same side, no. The factory side would be on the back rivet plate. Skipping around insures against pulling a curve in the trailing edge.
Now if you want every other rivet to be inserted from the opposite side, things may get interesting. I know some builders do it.
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Donated 12/01/2016. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (1,800+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
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  #15  
Old 04-16-2016, 04:04 PM
AdamB AdamB is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock View Post
If you have rivets all inserted fom the same side, no. The factory side would be on the back rivet plate. Skipping around insures against pulling a curve in the trailing edge.
Now if you want every other rivet to be inserted from the opposite side, things may get interesting. I know some builders do it.
Thanks, Larry.

I've seen others mention inserting rivets from opposite sides and guess I just figured I would do that as well as jumping around like described in the plans. In the end, the alternating sides didn't seem to make sense, as you say, might make things interesting. I think they turned out pretty good.

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  #16  
Old 04-16-2016, 05:04 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Default Rivets

Looks good to me!
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Donated 12/01/2016. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (1,800+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
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  #17  
Old 11-13-2017, 03:29 PM
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Mnemonics Mnemonics is offline
 
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Default Mushroom head for Trailing Edge

Why do you use the mushroom head to finish the trailing edge?

Can't you use the back-rivet set to finish it?

I found that the back-rivet set can dent if you don't "end" perpendicular to the skin.
However I'm not able to use the mushroom head without either pounding the back-rivet plate or keeping it too much on the trailing edge pounding the skin (and stiffeners).

Which one should I "pound"?
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  #18  
Old 11-13-2017, 08:39 PM
RandyAB RandyAB is offline
 
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Hey Justin.

I too really like your blog. I agree with Larry that it is nice to navigate through and I've found it very helpful thinking through some of the build decisions that you've already made and articulated.

One point I have is with respect to alternating the shop and manufactured heads. It makes sense to me to do that on the rudder where both heads are equally visible but i don't think it makes sense on the elevator where it would seem to make more sense to put the manufactured head up for cosmetic reasons. That's what I did. I know that the main point of the post was how to set the rivets but I thought I would mention it.
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  #19  
Old 11-13-2017, 09:39 PM
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Default Pounding

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mnemonics View Post
Why do you use the mushroom head to finish the trailing edge?

Can't you use the back-rivet set to finish it?

I found that the back-rivet set can dent if you don't "end" perpendicular to the skin.
However I'm not able to use the mushroom head without either pounding the back-rivet plate or keeping it too much on the trailing edge pounding the skin (and stiffeners).

Which one should I "pound"?
Marcel, I don't see a response to your question so I'll give it a try. If you can position the trailing edge at the edge of the back rivet plate, you should be able to "pound" the rivets without pounding the plate. Just make sure to check the position of parts every time. Nothing ruins a day like missing the plate.
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Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/01/2016. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (1,800+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #20  
Old 11-14-2017, 08:33 PM
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vernon smith vernon smith is offline
 
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My instructions said straight trailing edges was one of the most difficult parts of building a flying surface. With that in mind, and being far from accomplished with the rivet gun, I decided to find a way to get good reliable results with a dead straight trailing edge. I'm accustomed to building race cars in jigs and fixtures so Van's "in the air" method is all new to me, and a little scary. Point is, I'm blessed with tools and equipment most of you do not have and do not want to buy. One of them is a six foot by six-foot by .625 steel blanchard ground surface plate flat and square to .010. With this one can usually get a true result.

I milled an eleven-degree angle in a 4" x 2" x .5" steel block. This matches the angle of Van's trailing edge internal aluminum strip. The idea here is to end up with two parallel surfaces to squeeze against. Also, the oversized block insures everything stay flat and true without any dents or smiles in the skin.
I invested in the Numatx air over hydraulic squeezer because its half the weight of the pure pneumatic squeezers and comes with a foot pedal which is amazingly handy when you are trying to keep a couple of components aligned as is the case with the trailing edge rivet squeezing process.

Here is a picture of the simple steel block with the eleven-degree angle.









Above is the block positioned on the bottom of the trailing edge offering two dead parallel surfaces for the squeezer to work on. I installed the largest diameter flat squeezer set I had in the nonmoving side of the squeezer, and held it firmly over the shop head, then brought to piston up against the steel eleven-degree wedge block, and when all was well aligned squeezed the rivet. I had the entire structure clamped down on the surface plate so I could maintain a dead straight trailing edge with no problem.

I realize all this is worthless without the tooling but if you have a squeezer your local machine shop can make you the angle block or I'll send you mine, my next RV build is well over a year away

Last edited by vernon smith : 11-14-2017 at 08:34 PM. Reason: forum does not like Word line spacing
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