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Dynon Avionics standard pakage.

LUKLA

Active Member
Folks, I am getting my dynon standerd package from vans this week. Any suggestion before I proceed to install. I am going to have 2 axis auto pilot with panel Knob.

Inputs will be appreciate as always.
Thanks
Lukla
 
Lukla,

I do not remember stumbling across any gotchas during the instillation of the Dynon SkyView, Knobs and associated goodies ... everything is pretty much straight forward. If memory serves me correctly, the Adel clamp adjacent to the left cooling fan was small for the amount of wires going through it, so I used a larger Adel clamp.

I do remember there being an incorrect callout for the trim wiring ... but when using the AP Knobs panel, there is a trim set-up procedure that you will need to run which verifies correct trim movement. The Dynon will make the correction if the trim does not move the correct way ... so it is not a big deal but I wanted it correct to begin with. I did a write up on the Blog prior to discovering the Dynon will make the correction during the trim setup procedure:
http://www.dogaviation.com/2016/03/wiring-discrepancy-identified-in-trim.html
http://www.dogaviation.com/2016/04/calibrating-auto-trim-settings-for-ap.html

If you are planning on eventually going with Wi-Fi, now would be a good time to install it. Suggest going with Dynon's Wi-Fi USB dongle because they have added a little wire pigtail as an antenna for better connectivity to devices in the cockpit such as notepads, phones, etc. Now is a good time to install it because getting all the screws out of the upper forward fuselage skin and instrument panel to add it later is truly a PITA.
 
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If I was building right now, I'd add the handle for entry as shown in the new 12is. That is where the autopilot controls are in mine so I'd investigate adding the handle and relocating the autopilot controls lower.
 
If I was building right now, I'd add the handle for entry as shown in the new 12is. That is where the autopilot controls are in mine so I'd investigate adding the handle and relocating the autopilot controls lower.

I can't figure out which handle you're referring to.
 
If you are planning on eventually going with Wi-Fi, now would be a good time to install it. Suggest going with Dynon's Wi-Fi USB dongle because they have added a little wire pigtail as an antenna for better connectivity to devices in the cockpit such as notepads, phones, etc.

FYI, you don't need to buy Dynon's really expensive WiFi adapters.
I use two "Edimax EW-7811Un" in a Dual 7" Skyview setup.
The WiFi adapter are only $8.50 each on Amazon with free prime shipping.
A whole lot lower cost then $70 for two. Plus no USB extension cables needed due to their extremely small design and no reception issues.
 
If I was building right now, I'd add the handle for entry as shown in the new 12is. That is where the autopilot controls are in mine so I'd investigate adding the handle and relocating the autopilot controls lower.

Not sure if you could add that handle and keep it ELSA (if that's important), but it could certainly be done later. Maybe even another handle over toward the right side.

Jim
 
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Not sure if you could add that handle and keep it ELSA (if that's important), but it could certainly be done later. Maybe even another handle over toward the right side.

Jim

AP knob goes where handle is. Will figure out somewhere else, thanks

Lukla
 
FYI, you don't need to buy Dynon's really expensive WiFi adapters.
I use two "Edimax EW-7811Un" in a Dual 7" Skyview setup.
The WiFi adapter are only $8.50 each on Amazon with free prime shipping.
A whole lot lower cost then $70 for two. Plus no USB extension cables needed due to their extremely small design and no reception issues.

Awesome , thanks a lot. I would definitely go with $8.50.

Lukla
 
Awesome , thanks a lot. I would definitely go with $8.50.

Lukla

One note of caution. I recall a recent thread in these forums about headset noise that was eventually discovered to be coming from a bargain priced 12v-USB power adapter. For my money, I'd get the quality item from Dynon before risking another foray into the avionics bay to chase a problem. (I'm assuming that's where it will go)
3 cents (hey everything is going up).
 
When you look at the cable bundles now, compared to the cable bundles in the plans, they have got a lot bigger. Routing the 45 and 46 bundles back over the rudder tubes, down the firewall etc not only puts a very sharp bend in them, but with the red collars in position, you are really tight on length. That coupled with the fact that all the wiring should ideally be run before the rudders go in makes the job even harder.

We collected our cables together and routed them between the rudder cable mounts to a secure point on the firewall, then down the channel. No sharp turns, no interference, all secure.

As you route all the accessory cabling down the fuselage, make sure you group the individual cables according to where they are going. Longest at the bottom, shortest at the top as they go through the snap bushings. Otherwise you can get knots downstream of the snap bushing as cables try and cross. We dressed the whole loom out and put a small wrap of blue masking every foot, or where connectors were. That way you can pass the whole loom down the airframe and then pick out shorter services more easily and stack them according to destination. Make a blown up print of the section on the wiring schematic where the wires leave the D-sub connectors at the hub for both the 45 and 46 connectors. That will help identify which wires go where and.... where they say a yellow/purple wire, ours came purple/yellow. That took some head scratching to figure and mega out :cool:

Get a good quality crawler on wheels as you will be picking cables and stuff from under the fuselage.

Finally, get a 10x lupe from Harbor Fright so you can see the pins and connectors, especially the micro Molex ones. The crimp goes towards the outside clip.
 
One note of caution. I recall a recent thread in these forums about headset noise that was eventually discovered to be coming from a bargain priced 12v-USB power adapter. For my money, I'd get the quality item from Dynon before risking another foray into the avionics bay to chase a problem. (I'm assuming that's where it will go)
3 cents (hey everything is going up).

Hi Dave. I really take issue when I'm accused of a misdeed. I posted to help save the OP and others some cash.
Considering I gave first hand experience stating "no problems", your point is moot. I have to assume you believe I'm lying? You can also find others using the same adapters with their Skyview systems.

Further, the USB wifi adapters are powered by regulated power provided by Skyview. Did you know that Dynon sells off the shelf wifi adapters with the same chipset? They just print their name on the case.

Finally, your concern is completely apples and oranges. It's in a similar stance as saying "My O-320 dropped a valve today, so you should avoid running that Rotax 912 until you pull the heads. After all, they're both engines!".
Except in the case of the wifi adapter vs a 12v-USB power adapter, they don't even provide the same function. Completely different.

Now, if you would like to provide evidence to your concern, instead of posting based on fear, that might be more productive. I'm all ears. Just how will this adapter somehow back feed through Dynon's hardened internal voltage regulator's circuit? And just what are you seeing on the oscilloscope? Please post a snapshot. Tell me about your firsthand experience on this wifi adapter plugged into a dual Skyview system?
 
Hi Dave. I really take issue when I'm accused of a misdeed. I posted to help save the OP and others some cash.
Considering I gave first hand experience stating "no problems", your point is moot. I have to assume you believe I'm lying? You can also find others using the same adapters with their Skyview systems.

Wow not a bad rant at all for less than two weeks and 5 posts on VAF.

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I've been debating whether to reply at all to N456TS.
No offense was intended.
I don't recall ever attacking or intentionally offending anyone in these forums, there is simply no reason to do that. Nor have I perceived an offense intended for me.
This has been a place to find community, encouragement, advice, lessons learned, and opinions, LOTS of opinions! Not all of them expert opinions, least of all mine. But by far the most offered in the spirit of friendship, helpfulness, and an attempt to pay back a small portion of the value and enjoyment we find here.
Doug's motto at the top of the home page says it best:
"A small, honor system webezine trying its best to be a laid back virtual watering hole for builders/pilots of Van's RV kitplanes - more and more important in today's increasingly nutzo world. Brought to you by the Reeves family."
So, I offered my opinion based primarily on the difficulty of pulling the -12s canopy and top cowl to fix a problem among the avionics. Just my opinion.
Sounds like the gentleman has a lot of knowledge and experience to share. I hope he will continue to do that, although in less dramatic fashion.
 
Unless you're going with dual displays - consider putting the panel knobs in after inspection and install them on the right panel. The space in the center stack is prime real estate and those knobs only have so much value.

The handle and the knobs can be added anytime after sign-off.

I'll be moving mine when I get around installing a GPS.
 
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