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Time to overthink the "what drill press should I get" question

tyconnell

tyconnell

Well Known Member
Greetings,

I started a -9 tail kit about 2 months ago, and I'm to the point where I need to countersink the horizontal stab spars.

I did the countersinking "by hand" on 2 van's practice kits, so in theory I could do it that way. I just cringe a little when thinking about doing that to actual parts.

I've been thinking about drill presses for a couple of months, and I'm stuck at opposite ends of the spectrum: either a full blown floor model on a stand with wheels, or a small (10") benchtop model.

I'm in 1/2 of a 2 car garage, so things have to be easy to move. The middle tier benchtop models are heavy (~120 lbs.), so those are a no go.

Questions:
1. The 10" model - is it adequate for full build? Does anyone have any experience using something of this size for the whole project, what are your thoughts? What did it _not_ do?

2. The floor model - I'm giving up precious floor space for you - are you worth it? Why would I buy you?

I did google "drill press site:vansairforce.net" and came up with surprisingly little info on this topic.

Thank you for your time.
 
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Hi Ty,

I've been working mostly in a single stall of a 2 car garage. I built a 3'x3' table on locking rollers. At the corners, I put 1) a Ryobi drill press, 2) a Ryobi combo belt/ disc sander, 3) a Vise, and 4) a Ryobi bench grinder with a scotchbrite wheel on one side. The bench top Ryobi drill press has been plenty for my build.

If I had it to over again, I would have gone with a larger vice (I went with the smallest). I would have also bought a drill press vise early on. I also wish I had bought the 1" belt sander from Harbor Freight and just bolted it to the EAA bench when needed.

I was fortunate that I had a sizable HD gift card and so the tools were "free" to me :)

Hope this helps!

I can't think of a situation where I wished that I had a bigger drill press. A bigger/ better bandsaw, yes!

Happy Building!
 
Little use

I borrowed one when I started my 7A and built for 5 yrs and 7 months. I found that I used the drill press very little. I drilled all spar countersinks by hand.
 
As for floor space, I built a shortened 2' x 2' EAA 1000 style work bench and put it on large locking casters. I have my band saw, drill press, buffer and belt/disk sander on the four corners. There's an outlet strip with a 15' cord attached under the bench top. It rolls where I need it and rotates to put the tool I need where I need it. It's worked out really, really well. "One of these days" I want to plumb in vacuum hose to the saw and sander.

My drill press is an old cheapie. I wouldn't recommend it or one like it. There's no runout to speak of, which is good, but the quill drifts outward when pressure is applied. In other words, you can center the drill bit in a punch mark, press down and it will drift about 1/32" toward you. I've noticed this defect in a LOT of cheap bench top drill presses. I have seen a couple that don't do it... neither had brand names I recognized, and both looked just like the other cheap **** presses, so maybe it's luck of the draw, I don't know. This winter I plan to go find a better one and sell or junk the one I have.

I've also wished for a bigger and better band saw, but just a better drill press (not bigger).
 
DaleB said:
... but the quill drifts outward when pressure is applied. In other words, you can center the drill bit in a punch mark, press down and it will drift about 1/32" toward you. I've noticed this defect in a LOT of cheap bench top drill presses.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure of the terminology, but is this a "feed column" problem (it's too loose) or a chuck problem?
 
After tolerating and practically wearing out a Delta bench-top drill press over the past 20 yrs, I recently purchased this Wen drill press:

https://www.amazon.com/WEN-4214-12-Inch-Variable-Speed/dp/B00HQONFY6

http://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-12-in-Variable-Speed-Drill-Press-4214/204994931

91301f77-6496-4be6-ac3f-292e20467ad0_1000.jpg


Man....I wish I had this thing for the past several projects. No-wobble feed, laser light, variable speed with digital tach (!!), etc made this a fine addition to my shop at a reasonable price.
 
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I used a Craftsman 9" bench top drill when I was building the -6. I have a 12"(?) Ridgid floor model now. They both do the job, so it all comes down to space and finances as far as I'm concerned.
 
1 side of a two car garage here also. I went with a full sized Delta. You have to consider what else you'll do with the drill press after youre done building. Im my case, I do all kinds of shop work. Word of caution tho, my Delta is clearly for wood working in its tolerances - I've figured out its nuances for precision metal drilling and can compensate, but I wish I'd spent on a metalworking drill press vs the woodworking one. Time wise tho, it by far gets the most work with the Scotchbrite wheel chucked in it, go figure.
 
tyconnell said:
I'm not sure of the terminology, but is this a "feed column" problem (it's too loose) or a chuck problem?
Click to expand...

The chuck is fine. It's the "quill", the column that moves up and down. It has some slop that there doesn't appear to be any way to fix, and a lot of the cheap ones I have looked at are the same. I think the Wen is good... I seem to recall I saw a 10" Wen at Menard's and was surprised, because it doesn't look like it's any different from the rest of the similar presses but it was rock steady even with the chuck all the way down.
 
DaleB said:
The chuck is fine. It's the "quill", the column that moves up and down. It has some slop that there doesn't appear to be any way to fix, and a lot of the cheap ones I have looked at are the same. I think the Wen is good... I seem to recall I saw a 10" Wen at Menard's and was surprised, because it doesn't look like it's any different from the rest of the similar presses but it was rock steady even with the chuck all the way down.
Click to expand...

In my Delta, its the chinese bearings that are off tolerance. Ive tried a couple of times to figure out how to get it apart to replace them with tight tolerance lathe bearings, but couldnt get stuff to come apart, so I just left it and moved on. If I need really tight holes, I undersize drill and ream.....or get out the file!
 
maniago said:
In my Delta, its the chinese bearings that are off tolerance. Ive tried a couple of times to figure out how to get it apart to replace them with tight tolerance lathe bearings, but couldnt get stuff to come apart, so I just left it and moved on. If I need really tight holes, I undersize drill and ream.....or get out the file!
Click to expand...
My screening process for a drill press is to run the quill all the way down, and see if it can wiggle back and forth or not. Most of the less expensive ones can, and even a few of the more expensive ones. Maybe it's acceptable for woodworking, I don't know. But dumping my press and replacing it is on my to-do list for this year. I think I bought it in the early 1990s, so it really doesn't owe me anything.
 
snopercod said:
Two words: Harbor Freight
Click to expand...

I really tried to buy a HF drill press to replace my worn-out Delta, but every one I looked at had at least as much quill play as my old Delta.

The Wen turned out to be just what I was looking for at a ~$200 price point.
 
I've been happy with Palmgren 10.5" drill press, bought on Amazon.

A bit more expensive than some others but seems very heavy-duty for the price.
 
I've got a very old Jet drill press. It's solid and reliable.

Things to look for, besides the movement, are the high speed and the slow speed. The slow speed is best for hole saws, and mine goes down to 500 rpm and up to 2,800 rpm. This is adequate.

Mine is a table mount rather than a floor mount. For my RV-3B project, this is fine. Can't see any reason for a floor mount if you have the space on a table - or vice-versa. Both are fine.

I wish mine had a quill lock. Some

Sometimes it's handy to be able to hold the chuck height in a position for a few minutes. Mine doesn't have that.

Check the ribbing under the table, since you'll sometimes be needing to clamp to the table and they tend to get in the way.

Can the table be moved out of the way or off to one side? That's handier than I'd have expected.

Mine doesn't have a laser. I've only felt the lack once.

Dave
 
DaleB said:
My screening process for a drill press is to run the quill all the way down, and see if it can wiggle back and forth or not. Most of the less expensive ones can, and even a few of the more expensive ones. Maybe it's acceptable for woodworking, I don't know. But dumping my press and replacing it is on my to-do list for this year. I think I bought it in the early 1990s, so it really doesn't owe me anything.
Click to expand...

My quill is good; its def the bearings. It rumbles too.

For the above poster that suggested harbor freight, see my comment about chinese bearings. I read someone on here say that HF stuff is great, as long as you consider what you bought as a project that will need tinkering with to make it work right. Id say thats accurate.
 
Sam Buchanan said:
The Wen turned out to be just what I was looking for at a ~$200 price point.
Click to expand...
That's a good price! I bought my HF 16 speed floor model in 1987 for $135 (I think it was). Sure, it's a little sloppy and vibrates at the higher speeds, but it has served me well for what I was doing. At the time, the Delta units were selling for $700 so it was a no-brainer for me. I also bought a HF X-Y micrometer vice with built-in V-blocks for cross-drilling my push-pull tubes and rod ends. It's a piece of ****, too, but it was good enough for what I was doing. A well made tool is a joy to behold, but all our planes are going to cost us way more than we ever imagined, so it's also good to save money on tools where possible. /rant
 
Harbor Freight has an 8" 5-speed benchtop drill press on sale right now for $50. ltem No. 62520/60238.
 
DaleB said:
As for floor space, I built a shortened 2' x 2' EAA 1000 style work bench and put it on large locking casters. I have my band saw, drill press, buffer and belt/disk sander on the four corners.
Click to expand...

I'm totally stealing this idea. I have a bandsaw that needs a home, and if I can fit a drill press and other items on it, this would be a total win.

Thanks for all the feedback in this thread. Very helpful. The idea of the WEN press is intriguing. I had initially eliminated it.

Lots to consider. Again thanks all!
 
Bought a Wen too

Similar to Sam's description, I used (and wore out) a small bench top drill press for over twenty years. I caught this Wen on sale for just over $200. Solid tool, great quality. Highly recommend.

Also note it is the same drill press sold by Jet, painted a different color for $100 less.



Sam Buchanan said:
After tolerating and practically wearing out a Delta bench-top drill press over the past 20 yrs, I recently purchased this Wen drill press:

https://www.amazon.com/WEN-4214-12-Inch-Variable-Speed/dp/B00HQONFY6

http://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-12-in-Variable-Speed-Drill-Press-4214/204994931

91301f77-6496-4be6-ac3f-292e20467ad0_1000.jpg


Man....I wish I had this thing for the past several projects. No-wobble feed, laser light, variable speed with digital tach (!!), etc made this a fine addition to my shop at a reasonable price.
Click to expand...
 
Tony Bengelis' Idea

DaleB said:
As for floor space, I built a shortened 2' x 2' EAA 1000 style work bench and put it on large locking casters. I have my band saw, drill press, buffer and belt/disk sander on the four corners.
Click to expand...

tyconnell said:
I'm totally stealing this idea. I have a bandsaw that needs a home, and if I can fit a drill press and other items on it, this would be a total win.
Click to expand...

I first saw this in one of Tony Bengelis' many books. If you're building an airplane and don't know who Tony Bengelis was, then shame on you. :) Maybe he got the idea from someone else, I don't know. I built two of them.

Here's the link.
 
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EAA bench

I also built a third EAA bench from the leftovers. It's about 3' square. Each corner has a bench tool. Drill press, grinder, disk/belt sander and vice. Drill press came with my used tool kit. It's an HF but a fairly big 5/8". It cdnters and drills straight but if I were buying it would be a higher quality unit. Personally, I would not build without one or the vice, sander and grinder.
 
Having purchased a couple hundred drill presses in the last 55 years here is a list of important attributes in no particular order;

1 buy a quality item, Taiwan OK, China chancy
2 variable speed is very convenient, changing belt locations is not
3 do not expect to get a good chuck with the DP, buy a Jacobs 1/2" ball bearing chuck and install it
4 we use a lot of small drills so you need at least 3000 rpm, a digital rpm reader is nice but usually China
5 get a floor model, don't waste valuable bench space
6 get an adjustable table (up and down)
7 you need at least a one HP motor
8 a quill lock is very attractive when the drill has locked the piece of sheet metal onto itself and wants to spin it at several thousand RPM. Rule one, keep it on the table, rule two tighten the quill lock so it stays there then turn off the machine. If there is no quill lock it's easy to run out of hands :)
9 this DP will not be cheap, probably fifteen hundred bucks but worth $750.00 used on Craig's list
 
Don't buy WILTON

Did a lot of research a few years ago and chose a Wilton floor model. Sorry to say, it is junk. Would probably have done better to buy HF. Drills nice triagular holes though. Will take the head apart when I have the time - I'm building an RV-12 currently. Really disappointing - guess that I didn't do a thorough research effort.

So, don't buy Wilton.
 
bhester said:
I borrowed one when I started my 7A and built for 5 yrs and 7 months. I found that I used the drill press very little. I drilled all spar countersinks by hand.
Click to expand...


+1

I can think of only a handful of things times where a drill press was really a necessity. I ended up with a ~$150 bench top craftsman.

On the other hand, I think a band-saw is a must.
 
Floor model

I got lucky and bought a floor model industrial drill press at a local auction for 25 dollars. Then got a good Jacobs bit to replace the one there.

The Drill press needed work mostly belts, some welding on a handle etc.

I love this floor model and it will easily transport across the floor to where i need it.

Accurate holes have been drilled and it always has a honing wheel in it so i just step up to it and debur away many many many parts. Easier on the hands when you are repairing things when ALL burrs are off the parts.

Love it, but need it? Maybe not, a bench griinder with wheel on it and a bench drill press would work i think.

Dave
 
They aren't used a lot but when you need one they are priceless.

I tried the Harbo Freight one, terrible quality. I ended up with the Ryobi green press sold at Home Depot, it does a great job for the money.

I find myself looking for ways to use it, for example, counter sinking the Andair fuel valve top plate, could not have done it as well without the press.
 
Triangular holes are the result of the wrong tool going into the wrong material. Twist drills, especially 118 degree drills, in thin material will lose center on break through and ricochet from side to side taking advantage of all the allowance the DP quill clearance and the material moving around on the table will provide. Clamping the work to the table so it does not move is a good start, light pressure helps but to get a really round hole you have to drill one size under and finish with a reamer.

Step drills will make round holes with a drill press and the work clamped on the table, they will make round holes free hand but the center line cannot be depended on. Good hole saws (Dewalt) in a drill press with the work clamped down are the best for holes over 3/4 " They should be turned much slower then a twist drill. Unfortunately, slower then a lot of cheap DP's will go and have any torque left.
 
Well, to wrap it up, I ended up buying a Rikon 8 inch Bench Drill Press. I'm fortunate to live pretty close to a high quality wood working store. Every tool I've gotten from them has been top notch. Saturday I went down there and I was able to physically touch, move, open, inspect, etc. this tool before purchase. It came home Saturday afternoon, went together in about 20 minutes. There is zero play in the quill, and I'm sure there is some runout in it, but I can't see any.

I made a quick drill press table (a scrap piece of plywood with a 1x4 fence nailed to it), and 60 minutes later I had my countersinks in the HS spars done.

It may not have the juice some people would want, but it's small, and got the job done really well. Really happy with the purchase.
 
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