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  #1  
Old 01-10-2019, 07:45 PM
DJP DJP is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 85
Default Question about RV-10 front seats

I have owned my RV-10 for seven years now and I am doing a complete makeover of the aircraft. Last summer I had an all Garmin high tech panel built by Aerotronics and installed by Synergy in Eugene, a Van’s builder assistance center. Next week it is going for new paint in Southern CA and yesterday I ordered a new interior from AeroSport products.

During this time, I have removed and replaced the interior more times that I have fingers and toes. The processes would not be so bad if the front seats were not so hard to remove and replace. The latch on the side of the seats that holds them in place is bolted onto the seat by (4) 3/8 inch bolts. When I first bought the aircraft the latches were on the outside of the seats, just like it shows in the aircraft plans. This made it almost impossible to attach the latches to the seats do to the limited space between the seats and the side of the aircraft interior upholstery. After doing this a few times I decided to switch the seats around so that the latches would be on the inside of the seats with the latches up against the tunnel. While it is easier it is still very difficult and time consuming. I found out just today from talking to the builder assistance folks at Van’s that they ended up doing the same thing with the company aircraft.

There has to be a better and easier way. I called Vans because I wanted to know if it was possible to buy just the latches that go on the seats. I figure if I have a spare set, I can go to a machine shop and hopefully someone that can think outside the box will be about to come up with some way to “capture” the lock nut on the latch itself which would make the install a piece of cake and take only a few minutes each time it is necessary. While I was talking to Vans about it they said “try the forum, other guys have done the same thing”. I did try the forum and searched for “seats” and while I did get a lot of hits, none answered my question, has anyone found a way to install the latches on the RV-10 seats that makes them easy to remove and replace? I would be most grateful for any suggestion along this line.
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  #2  
Old 01-10-2019, 08:20 PM
philb philb is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 152
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I installed Aerosport’s extended handle that lifts the factory latch, and made the seat rail modification commonly used.

I can remove the seat stop ( 2 an4 bolts), lift the latch, remove the seat aft off the rails and out of the cockpit in less than 5 minutes.

I’m assuming you’re talking abou r/r the seats, not the latches? I’ve never had to remove the latches since original installation.

Phil
Salt Lake City

Last edited by philb : 01-10-2019 at 08:23 PM.
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  #3  
Old 01-10-2019, 08:27 PM
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9GT 9GT is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Southern Michigan
Posts: 1,626
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I also swapped the lock handle to the tunnel side on both seats on my RV-10. I then made a 1/4" drive, 7/16" six point socket into a super thin wall that was dedicated to removing the rear seat stops. I then modified the front portion of the tracks on the bottom of the seats so that when the aft seat stops were removed, I could slide the seats all the way aft and tilt them up and out from the rear. I did have to remove the seat belts from the tunnel attach point to get enough clearance. I could get both of the front seats out in about 5 minutes max. Same for re-installation. There is no need to ever to remove the locking handle. Just lift up the handle and slide the seat out holding it all the way up after you remove the stops and seat belt.
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  #4  
Old 01-10-2019, 08:35 PM
RV10Pilot RV10Pilot is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Medford, NJ USA
Posts: 165
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I know of 2 modifications that can be used to make removal of the front seat tee handle easier to remove. One is to install nut plates like this https://n42bu.com/post/2014/11/02/Seat-removal.aspx

The other method involves making the stop at the rear of the rail removable, this way you don't have to remove the tee handle. You just remove the rear stop and slide the seat back and off. You remove the 2 nuts and CS screws holding the stop in place. Replace the nuts with nut plates attached to the removable panel under the seat. Replace the screws with longer screws.

Another modification that makes the seat easier to get out is to remove 3/4" of the forward part plastic inside the seat rail. This will allow the seat to pivot up so you do not have to remove the flap cover under the rear seat. Brian and Brandi have a photo of that mod also. https://n42bu.com/post/2014/04/08/Tr...at-rails!.aspx
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  #5  
Old 01-10-2019, 08:48 PM
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Aerosport1 Aerosport1 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canal Winchester, Ohio
Posts: 404
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Just as Phil said very quick and easy to remove the 4, 3/8” bolts. Use a box wrench on the bolt head and 3/8” socket on the nuts. I also opened up the 4 holes about .007 or so and this really helped. My original holes had no play at all and if not perfect when putting back together was a little tougher
FWIW
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  #6  
Old 01-10-2019, 09:01 PM
philb philb is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 152
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To clarify-

I also did the seat stop/nut plate mod that allows for easier removal of the seat stop bolts- no need to mess with nuts- just a socket on an extension...

Phil
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  #7  
Old 01-10-2019, 10:09 PM
BobTurner BobTurner is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 5,805
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BTW, you only need to remove 3 of the 4 bolts. Leave but loosen one of the bottom bolts, rotate the latch 90 deg.
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  #8  
Old 01-10-2019, 11:08 PM
DJP DJP is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 85
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Thanks for the suggestion, I think putting nut plates on the latch is the best, fastest and easiest way to resolve the problem. With no need to monkey around trying to get a nut started on the end of the bolt in the cramped space, this looks like an easy fix, Thanks for the suggestion and picture.
Don
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  #9  
Old 01-11-2019, 05:36 AM
Electrogunner Electrogunner is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Quarryville ,pa
Posts: 427
Default Latches

Just drill and tap the latch. It's plenty thick enough. No nuts or nut plates required
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  #10  
Old 01-11-2019, 08:45 AM
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flion flion is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 2,523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electrogunner View Post
Just drill and tap the latch. It's plenty thick enough. No nuts or nut plates required
Except that it's already drilled for AN3, so you'd have to replace the supplied bolts with AN4 and drill both the latch block and the seat to match. Frankly, I don't see the need. I swapped my latch locations to place them inboard and made the bevel in the nylon channel. From the opposite seat it is easy to lift the latch and remove the seat. The extensions would just make it easier, but I chose not to add them. For solo removal, so you have both hands free, make a spacer from some aluminum tube, cut one side out so the profile looking down the tube is a 'C' and slip it under the raised latch handle.
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