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  #21  
Old 12-23-2018, 10:36 PM
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Janekom Janekom is offline
 
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At Larry - with a few clecoes. Just fill the clecoe holes with Sika afterwards.

At Fil - you do not have to paint the posts black. Below is a copy of one of my posts in 2014.

Close up from the outside.


Inside showing the close out ring and the black finishing with Sika.


Whole door inside.


whole door outside.
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  #22  
Old 12-23-2018, 10:43 PM
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At Togaflier - maybe I should have said a similar look when finished
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  #23  
Old 12-24-2018, 02:42 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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At Larry - with a few clecoes. Just fill the clecoe holes with Sika afterwards.
One more question, if you're willing. Did you use any spacers or washers to keep a thick layer of sika between the f/g and window? Not sure it is necessary, as the side gap is probably enough to hold the window in.

Larry
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  #24  
Old 12-25-2018, 04:44 AM
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No Larry - with a steady hand and the Sika applied with even thickness it works well. I find that applying the Sika onto the windows works well for me. After positioning the windows you squeeze out the Sika untill you see that it has pushed out all the air, just by light hand pressure and a bit of wiggling it. Then insert your four clecoes on the rear window (6 on the front window) and let it cure.
Preparation like masking with two different colours of electrical tape ( not black ) takes a lot of time but is a must to get the right end result.
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  #25  
Old 12-25-2018, 06:33 AM
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whole door outside.
No visible Sika band around the windshield in this photo. Paint extends over the Sika, or is the windshield bonded in with a hard adhesive?
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  #26  
Old 12-26-2018, 08:41 AM
togaflyer togaflyer is offline
 
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What was demonstrated on the video, you make spacers out of a bead of Silpruf. Best advice is watch the videos on the Sportsman window install. Nothing is left out. You probably can use Sika using the same method. If you want to fiferglass over the seam and window, consider using something like Lords that allows less expansion movement. To fill in the trough, the airplane is painted first then you fill in the trough with Sil Pruf (cannot be painted over at all) and smooth it out flush with the cabin and window edges for the finish.
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  #27  
Old 12-26-2018, 09:11 AM
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No visible Sika band around the windshield in this photo. Paint extends over the Sika, or is the windshield bonded in with a hard adhesive?
Same question, Jan... ?
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  #28  
Old 12-28-2018, 12:18 AM
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Hi Mike,
With this RV10 the paint shop painted over the Sika. My instructions at the time to them was to paint up to the Sika. As the Sika is paintable it came out ok. But my preference and what I believe comes out nicer is when you paint up to the Sika. Hope it is clear now.
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  #29  
Old 12-28-2018, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janekom View Post
Hi Mike,
With this RV10 the paint shop painted over the Sika. My instructions at the time to them was to paint up to the Sika. As the Sika is paintable it came out ok. But my preference and what I believe comes out nicer is when you paint up to the Sika. Hope it is clear now.
Jan,

So, if the paint shop had followed your instructions, the front windshield would have had a "black ring" around it too, except for the bottom edge, which is covered with the large fiberglass structural fairing. Correct?

So....since those pics were from 2014, have there been any cracks (hairline or otherwise) that developed around the windshield, where the painter crossed the demarcation line between fiberglass and sika?
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Last edited by ppilotmike : 12-28-2018 at 07:58 AM.
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  #30  
Old 12-28-2018, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
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I have built two 10's using Sika 295 and also helped him do his windows. The trick is not to paint over the Sika and plexi. Then there is no risk of cracking. This is with reference to the four windows. The windscreen is different as you have the bottom section to build up with glass. I do the rest of the windscreen the same as the windows.
Is the bottom edge of the windshield set in Sika under the fiberglass fairing overlay?
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