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  #1  
Old 01-02-2019, 10:34 PM
Bellhemen Bellhemen is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 5
Default Vans sold another RV10 Kit

I took the plunge and should have a RV 10 Empennage kit delivered next week. I have a few questions as I do not personally know any RV builders, or have an active EAA.

I have most of what I need (I think). Advise on a couple of questionable parts/tools –

Substructure Dimple Die 3/32? Leaning towards no…

Countersink Jig?

Tail light Adapter Ring?

Threaded Tie Down Block?

Rudder Cable Fairing?

Static Line Kit from Cleveland any better/worse than Vans?

I have ordered extra rivets, the Radio Shack Self-Adhesive clips for the Static Line, and RV10 Bucking Bar.

Anything else other than a Light/Conduit I may need to finish the Emp?

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 01-02-2019, 11:17 PM
woxofswa woxofswa is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Mesa Arizona
Posts: 535
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I believe Dynon and SteinAir both sell the pitot static kits with the quick connects.
I think they’re all the same Safeair type fittings that Cleveland originally sold.
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  #3  
Old 01-03-2019, 04:34 AM
BrianDC's Avatar
BrianDC BrianDC is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 184
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Don’t “need” to make any decisions on this stuff right now. Even the substructure dimple isn’t needed unless you want to do it. (I did but honestly you really don’t need it).
Other parts won’t be needed for months unless you are building full-time. Enjoy building the tail feathers and once you have some better experience you can decide if you want to make any mods.

I purchased the rudder fairings and tail light ring but have not installed yet. Expect I won’t till I attach the tail to the fuse.

Congrats and welcome!
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  #4  
Old 01-03-2019, 07:56 AM
AviatorJ AviatorJ is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 815
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You will learn pretty fast that different builders have different opinions. Ultimately it's up to you and you'll have to wade through the responses and gather what you can from them.

I used standard dimple dies. Seemed to work fine.

I installed the tail light ring at final assembly. Took maybe 15 mins, not needed but I like the clean look.

I bought a threaded tie down block, didn't have a tap/die set at the time and it just seemed easier.

I have rudder cable fairings, I like the cleaner look.

I used the static line kit from Cleveland, probably all the same.

I would get some 3M VHB tape to use on the trailing edges instead of proseal. You use this to lay a track of adhesive to hold down your edges before riveting.
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  #5  
Old 01-04-2019, 09:41 AM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 3,799
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"Substructure Dimple Die 3/32? Leaning towards no…"
I have one and it's handy sometimes.

"Countersink Jig?"
Not sure what you're referring to. Countersink cages are necessary, I think, but if that's not it, then I don't know. If you're referring to the nutplate drililng jig, then no, just use a nutplate.

"Tail light Adapter Ring?"
I'll pass, my RV-3B doesn't use a tail light.

"Threaded Tie Down Block?"
Definitely yes, saves time for sure.

"Rudder Cable Fairing?"
Gotta pass on that, too, haven't gotten that far.

"Static Line Kit from Cleveland any better/worse than Vans?"
Over the years, people have commented about third party static fittings being less accurate than Van's, if that's the thing you're referring to, although I think Cleaveland's got theirs so it reads ok. If you mean the line and various fittings (and plan to use the stock static port) then several venders sell the kits or you can assemble your own piece by piece. www.macmaster.com sells all the fittings, for example, as does www.steinair.com.

Hope this helps!

Dave
Working on the fuselage
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  #6  
Old 01-04-2019, 09:09 PM
Bellhemen Bellhemen is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 5
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Thanks for the tips and advice, the countersink jig I was referring to is this from Cleavelands:
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Counte.../#.XDAkyFVKgps

I am trying to set myself up for success and I believe part of that is having the right tool for the job.
You have swayed my thoughts to:

Getting a Substructure die even though it may not be necessary but may come in handy at times.

Tail Light Adapter and Rudder cable fairing will wait awhile

Will use the threaded tie down block, I do not have a tap/die set

Will get a static line installed before tail cone is closed up

As far as the VHB Tape, I already ordered the Proseal with a dispenser.
Maybe it won’t be too bad…

Thanks again.
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  #7  
Old 01-10-2019, 02:32 PM
WannFly WannFly is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Fargo, ND
Posts: 15
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i might join the league soon enough... going to Vegas to attend the sheet metal class. while i dont know any of the answer to the question you have asked, I have seen a local -10 with the aftermarket tail hook and that was recommended by the builder, so is the static line kit from Cleaveland tools. Ohh, he also did a electric rudder trim that i am going to do.

hopeful builder
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  #8  
Old 01-10-2019, 03:59 PM
jeffwhip jeffwhip is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 137
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Congratulations!
You've embarked on an incredible journey. I would like to echo what others have already said. Many don't have to make many of these decisions yet. There is one thing I highly recommend you do...get organized!

I went out and bought several Stanley Tool boxes with varying sizes of compartments. I have one box that contains nothing but rivets. I put all of my nuts and washers in another etc. I probably spent two months getting everything organized before I ever started building. I had every nut, bolt, rivet, washer etc. labeled organized.

Despite my greatest efforts there are still times I've looked all over my shelves for more than an hour trying to find some little part. Some people work right out of the paper bags, but I would encourage you to not do that. FWIW.
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  #9  
Old 01-10-2019, 04:59 PM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Newport, TN
Posts: 7,348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bellhemen View Post
the Radio Shack Self-Adhesive clips for the Static Line,
Thanks
Most of those self adhesive wire tie mounts/clips will let go after some time due to heat and cold or the double sided foam breaking down. I don’t recommend those at all unless you remove the double sided foam tape and use some sort of better adhesive...
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  #10  
Old 01-13-2019, 10:48 AM
tomjj tomjj is offline
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Brighton, CO
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bellhemen View Post
Thanks for the tips and advice, the countersink jig I was referring to is this from Cleavelands:
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Counte.../#.XDAkyFVKgps

I am trying to set myself up for success and I believe part of that is having the right tool for the job.

...

As far as the VHB Tape, I already ordered the Proseal with a dispenser.
Maybe it won’t be too bad…

Thanks again.
I started my Emp kit last May, about to finish up the HS. My thoughts on the above:

The wedge is not really necessary. The plans have you use some scrap to level the wedge. The Van's way works fine.

Proseal has a very limited shelf life, I would hold off ordering it until you're just about to the point you need it... and only order the quantity that you will need for the next job. Van's is very fast with shipping. The smallest size container will be enough for the rudder. You'll order another when doing the elevator, etc... I was terrified of this step when I got to the rudder, but it turned out to be a non event. Just be sure to have everything planned out before starting. Lay down a few sheets of butcher paper, use two layers of gloves. Have a roll of paper towels and MEK ready. Don't move anything around on the table once you get started. Popsicle sticks work great. I had my wife with me... I'd put a tiny dab of proseal between the drilled holes on the wedge, and my wife would follow me up by smoothing it down along the surface. Less is more. Take your time (you have enough). Avoid filling the holes and your cleanup life will be easier.
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