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  #11  
Old 01-09-2019, 07:28 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 4,636
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Some good details to the basic "drill better". I think end of the day produced my most mistakes. That said, I found the longer rivets are much harder to remove. I do use the progressive drill method, but I do have a full drill index on hand to step up in small sizes. I also made an anvil inspired by wirejock's post to use to back up the rivet to help drive it out. Also you can grind down the diameter (to #40 size) of a Harbor Freight automatic center punch and use it to drive out the rivets, the hammer and punch is for the most stubborn ones (like yours).

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  #12  
Old 01-10-2019, 05:05 PM
GeoffP GeoffP is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Warrimoo, NSW, Australia
Posts: 13
Default I Agree

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Paule View Post
To remove a rivet, I like to use a smaller drill to go about 2/3 of the way through. For this, I use a drill bit ten numbers smaller than is appropriate for the rivet. So for a -4 rivet, I'd first use a #40 drill.

Then I drill just the head off with teh correct drill. For this example, I'd drill just the head with #30. Then pop the head off and use a punch that's 3/32" diameter, matching the #40 hole, to knock the body out. The smaller drill weakens the body and makes it easier to punch out.

Dave
I've basically done the same thing to remove long (-8, -9) rivets in the exact same locations as the OP in my RV9 HS, and it works a treat. I often found when I put the #30 drill in after drilling through with the #40 that the head snaps off when the drill bit "grabs" it. I even have one I drilled a long way through with a #40 so there's just a thin-walled tube about 10mm long attached to the shop head! As others have mentioned, go slow, pay attention, and make sure the drill is dead in line with the rivet.
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